Finally!!!, shes complete Options

[treydawgs4g63T]

Ok, after weeks amongst weeks of putting together and taking apart the talon, and after quarts and quarts of oil, I am finally done. Now i just have one question?

what are the base oil and fuel pressures suppose to be?

fuel pressure = ?

oil pressure = ?

thanks

[AWD DSM 1]

fuel pressure is 43psi I belive.

Oil pressure will vary widely. as long as the stock gague isn't pegged or reading almost nothing it should be fine.

[ncgalant]

Cold oil will read 80-100psi even at idle. It should settle down to 15psi or so when up to temp and raise with RPM.

Base fuel pressure is 38psi for a 1g and 43psi for a 2g

[BudmannG]

Good to hear man!

[treydawgs4g63T]

Yeah I am glad its done. I will find out any other problems once im driving it!!

[SCCA Stang]

Cold oil will read 80-100psi even at idle. It should settle down to 15psi or so when up to temp and raise with RPM.

Base fuel pressure is 38psi for a 1g and 43psi for a 2g

wow, thats quite a wide range.... I have never seen my stock oil pressure guage reading at anything over 1/4 way up the guage at idle. even on cold startup... now once you start getting off idle it will go up over half way.

[treydawgs4g63T]

well guys, bad news! still FU**ing leaks!!! I am fing fed up with this bitch ass dsm! For some reason it is still leaking out of the rear main seal area. I replaced the housing, housing gasket and main seal but for some reason its just blowing oil out around the main seal not actually blowing the seal out. The only thing left that is could be is one of two things:

I noticed that my oil return line hose has a kink in it , so maybe its pressurizing.

Or,,,,,,,, I am going to have to take it all back apart and be positive that everything is 100% perfect and in spec.

Let me know what you guys think.

[treydawgs4g63T]

One quick ? which spot on the oil filter housing is the feedline supposed to go, or can it go in any spot?

Just figured i'd ask incase this could be my problem.

[Max Diesel]

well guys, bad news! still FU**ing leaks!!! I am fing fed up with this bitch ass dsm! For some reason it is still leaking out of the rear main seal area. I replaced the housing, housing gasket and main seal but for some reason its just blowing oil out around the main seal not actually blowing the seal out. The only thing left that is could be is one of two things:

I noticed that my oil return line hose has a kink in it , so maybe its pressurizing.

Or,,,,,,,, I am going to have to take it all back apart and be positive that everything is 100% perfect and in spec.

Let me know what you guys think.

Was there a noticeable groove in the crankshaft where the main seal rides? If so that could be causing oil to leak out even though you replaced the seal. I know fel-pro makes a repair sleeve for the SBC but not sure about the DSM.

[treydawgs4g63T]

I took a look at it and there is a small little groove in it so I am going to polish it tomorrow.

Thanks and Ill let you know if it works!

[treydawgs4g63T]

One quick ? which spot on the oil filter housing is the feedline supposed to go, or can it go in any spot?

Just figured i'd ask incase this could be my problem.

Anybody? ^^^^^

also, someone on dsmtalk.com mentioned that there is somesort of plug behind the flywheel. I am guessing he means a type of freeze plug but for oil. I havent looked yet but could one of you guys describe this a little better so I know what Im looking for?

[AWD DSM 1]

http://www.90gsx.com/eclipse/oil/

10 second yahoo search.

There are several threaded plugs for the oil passages all over the motor. some are allen wrench plugs, others are just bolts.

[turbohcar]

^^^Definitely want it coming off the oil filter housing for nice clean oil feed. As long as you aren't running a ball bearing turbocharger you should be alright getting it from there. If and when you do decide to go with a ball bearing turbo, you need to put a restrictor in the line to prevent blowing out the bearings with too much oil pressure.

[treydawgs4g63T]

WEll found out that its coming from one of the oil passeges! The allen head plug that goes there is missing!!!!!!

Rob do you have this laying at your house or did the machine shop take it out?

[treydawgs4g63T]

Cold oil will read 80-100psi even at idle. It should settle down to 15psi or so when up to temp and raise with RPM.

Base fuel pressure is 38psi for a 1g and 43psi for a 2g

Is this base fuel pressure at idle or WOT?

The car is running fine now , but when I first try to start it in the morning it takes a few minutes for it to start. COuld be fuel related that is why im asking about the fuel pressure. Also could it just be hard to start because everything isnt fully broke in?

[black92_tsi_awd]

Does the fuel pressure bleed down quickly after shuting off the engine?

If so, the oring at the fuel pump connection in the tank could be leaking. THat would cause slow starting because the fuel pump has to fill the 18' of fuel line every time you start it.

[awd4kicks]

That is base fuel pressure while at idle. with boost the fuel pressure will go up accordingly.

It may very well be a fuel supply issue by the sound of it. It shouldn't take any longer to start than normal just because it's not broken in fully. Do a fuel pressure test as described by black92.

[treydawgs4g63T]

thanks guys, and I want to install my walbro pump but i cant break the lines loose. Any suggestions?

[black92_tsi_awd]

I had a post somewhere on this but can't find it....

Short version
1) Soak for days in PB blaster....I mean days!
2) Get a small wire brush in a dremel to clean off the exposed threads and tubing, to the PB can penetrate
3) See #1
4) See #2
5) Use only line wrenches on the fittings, use 2! Put a block of wood under the tubing so the line cannot bend down. Put one line wrench against a block of wood placed on the trunk floor and use another to loosen the nut
6) Start at #1 when the nut doesn't loosen...

[awd4kicks]

I had lunch with the Natedogg today. I remembered that he had a similar problem on his FWD Eclipse except his line broke. Nate reminded me that Josh repaired it by cutting the line squarely and re-flaring the end. There was enough flex in the rubber line to make up the difference.

So if all else fails you can cut the line with a brake/fuel line cutter. Once you get the rubber line loose you bay be albe to torque the fitting apart easier. Then don't forget to put the flare nut back on the gas tank line before you reflare it. Sure it's a pain, but it will get you what you need done and give you a little more feeling of confidence that the problem can be remedied even if the line ends up braking.

PS: I'd still be carefull and try to save it as long as you can.