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> Stiffin suspension, Strut bar options...
Rollout
post Jan 13 2004, 03:46 PM
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For any of you autocrossers or anyone that cares about cornering and suspensions stiffining, what have you done about the strut bar issue? Its starting to become aware to me that all of the strut bars offered for the eclipse (2g) are CRAP, as far as i can see or tell. Anyone got any ideas? What have you guys done? I am contemplating having one made for my trunk...
Like this maybe?
_____
/| |\
the straight horizontal bar connects to the strut towers and the support bars would bolt into the trunk somehow


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SCCA Stang
post Jan 13 2004, 06:53 PM
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ok, it depends on what ytou are trying to accomplish, if you are AWD, and want to make the car "push" less then you want to put a better sway bar in the rear, but dont put one on the front because it will practicly negate everything you just did with the rear sway bar.
go to www.summitracing.com they have it there for $180

they also have a rear strut tower brace for $120


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natedogg
post Jan 14 2004, 09:41 AM
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I think he's talking about a front strut tower bar, not a front sway bar, which I've never even seen any aftermarket for these on DSM's.

Putting a front strut tower bar on your car will not negate anything that a stronger rear anti sway bar or rear strut tower bar does for you. The strut bars simply help keep body flex down within reference to the suspension.

The rear sway bar keeps down the body roll while cornering, which like you said will decrease understeer and help induce more oversteer for better handling neutrality.

If you want more oversteer on your DSM without spending a bunch on suspension parts, I suggest a spool. Marcus's car will kick the rear end out very easily from what I've seen. He could probably tell you better than I though.
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Rollout
post Jan 14 2004, 10:31 AM
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I was looking at those on TRE last night... as far as the drivetrain goes i dont know much about dsm's so i really have no clue about the effects it would have and how to install, etc.. (doesnt it just distribute power differently?)

In reference to the strut bars, yes i was speaking of strut tower bars, not sway bars, I've read good and bad of them, bad being they arnt worth the 20 bucks or so they cost because they are such crap, and good if its a quality product (which is kind of hard to identify from a picture), enless of course I had someone (most likely carl crawford) fabricate me a nice strong one.


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natedogg
post Jan 14 2004, 10:43 AM
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I've heard nothing but good things about the strut tower bars built by RRE. They know they're shit when it comes to suspension.

As far as the TRE spool goes, Marcus could tell you more, but yeah, it pretty much just locks the power distribution between the front and rear wheels so there is no differential slippage. Its also a lot more durable than the stock 2 spider gear center diff. Only problem is, it can be a little hard on the CV joints when taking slow sharp turns.
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zacd
post Jan 15 2004, 09:57 PM
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I'm going to have some homemade strut tower bars within this month probably. I noticed tonight that when I am going straight and then rock the steering wheel back and forth the body rolls tremendously. Would the strut bars fix that problem? Oh yeah and just so everybody knows I'm finally 16 so I can drive legally now biggrin.gif.
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awd4kicks
post Jan 15 2004, 11:14 PM
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The Spool is AWESOME for launches, griping around sweeping curves, kicking the a$$ end out when needed with a blip of the throttle, and for inclimate wheather conditions. It does cause some un-natural wear on the driveline components durring normal everyday driving, since all the wheels are more or less tied together with the transfercase, transmission and engine, not to mention the road.

At the same time a welded or spooled center differential will not help body roll during cornering, obviously. The strut tower bar is ment to reduce body flex during cornering as Nate mentioned. The strut tower bar will cut down a bit on body role by eliminating some twist but stiff spring rates and anti-roll bars will be the most effective ways to limit the wishy-washy feeling that DSM stock suspension is noted for.

BTW-I've seen a number of DSM's with rear strut tower braces and some were home-made. Not to difficult, but maybe not pretty or light depending on the material used and the assemblers skill.


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KOU In3
post Jan 15 2004, 11:25 PM
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QUOTE (awd4kicks @ Jan 16 2004, 05:14 AM)
BTW-I've seen a number of DSM's with rear strut tower braces and some were home-made. Not to difficult, but maybe not pretty or light depending on the material used and the assemblers skill.

Ask Spy for a pic of the one on the rolling chassis he picked up from me. The one in there looks beefy and I have no question as to its functionality. But it's not the most beautiful item to weld into your 2G.

If you don't mind a welded in rear strut bar though, fabrication and welding should be pretty easy for a decent welder to handle. Essentially a straight bar with metal end plates welded between the rear shock towers.

Carl should be able to whip one up for you without a problem.


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SCCA Stang
post Jan 16 2004, 12:00 AM
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QUOTE
If you don't mind a welded in rear strut bar though, fabrication and welding should be pretty easy for a decent welder to handle. Essentially a straight bar with metal end plates welded between the rear shock towers.


or if you would rather purchase a bolt in model, summit Racing has them for sale for about $120 plus shipping


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Double Decker spoilers are uber ricerlicious!!!!

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Rollout
post Jan 16 2004, 12:10 AM
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Im starting to become very curious about the spool, but i dont want to spend an assload on drivetrain parts because of the wear and tear...
Would this be a recommended idea or what? Keep in mind i do plan to keep driving the car about 5k a year, it wont be sitting in the garage collecting dust.

Also it sounds like a rear sway bar is more what i need anyways in comparison to the strut bar.


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zacd
post Jan 16 2004, 12:15 AM
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Well I was considering buying one and my friend jumped right up and wanted to make one for me so he's going to be doing that soon. I really don't care about looks all too much, my car has a huge dent in the back drivers quarter panel where the previous owner backed his truck into it and then tried to hammer it back out. Not the prettiest thing in the world, nor the 3" paint chip on the opposite side. My car cosmeticaly isn't in the best of shape but thats what you get for a $1100 car. And I believe it was worth every penny. NADA said it was worth $2500 i think when i bought it. I'm hoping to eventually, maybe this fall, get a 2g GSX.
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