ignition timing and A/f Options

[ncgalant]

Alright, lets get down to it. I'm looking for power. Given that, which is better, a little richer and more ignition timing, or leaner and less timing? Currently I'm working toward the latter, but want some input from some that run fast.

Also, which is better for spool, lean or rich. I can't get my pre-boost #s into the rich range. If I do a 3rd gear pull from 1500-6500. My O2s will read .08 until 3500 or so when they jump up to .8 and then .9 around 4000. My setup is working, but I want it to be the best it can be. I can post up my SAFC settings if you guys want too. Their F'd up.

[natedogg]

I'm not sure how your doing this whether it be by changing base timing or what. I have the advantage of a 2g ECU. The advantage being that the worst timing maps give you very little timing. I can introduce a load and have mine drop as low as 3 degrees and not get above 10 if I want. The only problem is if the boost spikes even a little bit I hit fuel cut.

I'm just saying that if your timing is getting that low at WOT your knock sensor may be going crazy. It just sucks that you can't see for sure if its the knock bringing down your timing or your airflow readings. I guess I fail to see how low timing is an advantage, at least when it comes to making power anyway. I've always tuned for the maximum possible timing from the maximum possible boost without getting too lean or out of the compressor's efficiency range, both of which obviously lead to knock and therefore less timing. To me this is the safest way to get the most possible power out of the engine. It seems to me your car is setup similar enough that you should be able to tune it the same way. I'm not knocking your 2G ECU, but I see the 1G ECU as more advantageous because it offers more possible timing at WOT and it allows me to monitor knock. So I can keep turning up the boost or leaning out the mixture until I see knock. In my case I'm already getting plenty of timing, so turning up the boost is my doorway to more power at WOT. Then, if I need to go a click richer to deal with more boost I will. I simply tune my fuel around the boost pressure that I want to run as long as that pressure is still within the turbo's efficiency range and amounts to an airflow that my fuel system can physically handle as far as fuel pressure, fuel flow, Inj. duty cycle, and injector size are concerned.

The reason my ECU is willing to give me all that timing is because the engine is flowing what it believes to be normal amounts of air (airflow input adjusted and dampened by the translator) at WOT and I'm not knocking at all, so its not pulling any of my timing. It would do the same thing for me if I put 93 octane in her and turned the boost down. What the ECU understands to be valid airflow readings + no knock = good timing.