Car keeps dieing!, When I push in clutch. Options

[BudmannG]

So here is the story that goes with the problem.

I went out to tune earlier and seen a 91 awd out of the coener of my eye. I thought to myself, I have to go by and make sure that is what it was. So I did that, and yes it was a 91 AWD red with the stupid wing on it like the fast and the furious. So I stopped and talked to them.

After I left there, I went down the blacktop that is close to me. I did a 3rd gear pull and it felt strong and pulled hard. I looked at the log I took from that run and no knock all the way through the power band. So I turn around and try it again. This time my pc had shut down on me so no log. But when I get to the stop sign it is idling way low, so I tap the gas to give it a rev and see if I can bring it back up. Didn't work out like I was wanting it to.

I then pull away from the stop sign and go through first then second. I hit third and laid it to the floor! It took off and did what it was supposed to for me. Then I push the clutch in to coast to a stop and the motor dies. WHY? I don't know! So I coast all the way to my turn and let out the clutch in fourth gear and it catches and starts. No big deal right, WRONG!

I got to the next stop and it dies again. When I got to my drive way it did it again. WHY? I know I got a boost leak at the PCV. But it shouldn't cause this thing to die like it is. I am confused about what is going on. I checked all the settings in DSM Link and they are the same as they have been.

Does anyone have any ideas?

If you don't remember what I am running.
3" gm mafs and translator
front mount w/ hard piping
Hallman MBC set at 19psi
50 trim turbo
44mm wastegate w/ open dump
turbo xs rfl BOV open dump
850cc FIC injectors

The last pull I did it had 2.5 counts of knock at 3200 rpm and went away at 4700 rpm. And my A/F ratio doesn't get any lower than 10.00.

[turbohcar]

They are supposed to sit mostly flat when it's tightened down. The clutch fork shouldn't be able to disengage the clutch if you're moving it by hand. That's why they use hydraulic clutch systems because the hydraulic system is able t create much much more force than your foot or arm actually could.

Something else is wrong that we're overlooking. At least the TOB is good. Throw a washer behind the pivot ball and put everything back together. Then adjust the clutch with a friend using the guide I linked to above. Mine was setup exactly like that and was perfect for drag racing and still good for everyday driving. While adjusting, have the person depress the clutch pedal down and up while you watch the slave cylinder actuate the clutch fork and make sure it's getting adequate throw. The links I posted above will provide reference to what is acceptable and what isn't.

Sumthin's got mee all cornfused!

EDIT: Something else I forgot to mention is if you tightened the nut on the clutch adjustment on the pedal assembly. If that nut is loose enough, the adjustment rod can back off and create symptoms like this. Check to make sure it's adjusted properly.