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![]() Beginner ![]() Group: Members Posts: 47 Joined: 22-April 04 From: Bloomington Member No.: 278 ![]() |
I have had this issue for many months and recently have decided to try and solve it. I know that when stopped with my, lights/ac/defrost/radio/brake pedal pushed the volt reading off my turbo timing drops considerably hence the dimming of the lights. Sometimes the volts will slowly rise back up to 13.5 and sometime they stay down as low as 12.2. At idle I tested the the terminals with a volt meter and it reads 14.3v. According to what I have been reading this tells me the altenator is working fine....could the regulator in the altenator be bad......any thoughts on this. I am getting ready to start doing some other mods and thought I would try and get this out of the way.
Jordan I have already tried a grounding kit and that didn't help. |
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![]() Post Master ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 908 Joined: 7-October 03 From: Chillicothe, IL Member No.: 182 ![]() |
QUOTE (JBone @ Feb 28 2007, 04:45 PM) The lights (head and brake) and defroster are the largest current sources that your car uses. They will always put a drain on your car at idle. It does it with my truck. You should see the current the turn signal draws. I love watching my little voltmeter in my truck swing when that's on. If your car is running fine at idle with these components, then I would venture to say everything is okay with your car. ever hear a walbaro 255 with the turn signal on? reeee rrrr reeee rrrrr with the signal. Got to love it. Ok, to the matter at hand. Lets look at this logically. If you have 14v at the alternator and 12V everywhere else, then the problem would seem to be between the alternator and the main box, perhaps that wire is worn. -------------------- GVR4 866/1000 = the perpetually broken car
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