Blowing fuses Options

[winkler1g]

I have no idea were the problem is, so I was hoping some of you guys would have some insite. My gauge cluster is not lighting up and the tail lights are also out. I keep on blowing 10amp tail light fuses under the hood. My tail lights still light up when I hit the brakes or use my turn signals. I put a 30amp fuse in and the cluster and the tail lights lit up just a little bit. I can not find any other blown fuses or grounded exposes wires so I have no idea if it is something incredible simple but who knows.

[SCCA Stang]

well.... I do understand electronics quite well.... if you are popping fuses, it is a short to ground before the load.... put a correct amperage circuit breaker inplace of the blowing fuse. take a compass and run it next to the suspected wires.... as long as the compas points at the wire, you have power up to that point, when the compas veres away from the loom, that is likely your short.

the other method is placing a buzzer or test light (with someone watching the light) in place of the fuse, then start unplugging connectors that relate to that circuit.... when you start pulling connectors, start near the load, as long as the buzzer is going, you still have the short...... as soon as your buzzer stops, you have isolated the short between that connector and the last one you pulled.

you can also use the buzzer idea and simply do a wiggle test on the loop, when you you shake the correct wire, you might be able to break the shorted connection and the buzzer will stop, then resort back to the compass idea.

both the buzzer and the compass work well with trying to find opens also. the wiggle test is not so effective with opens.

the first thing I would as is when work was mosty recently done, (not just electrical either) in my experience, shorts and opens are most likely caused by these causes, technician neglect (pinching wires), after market accessories overloading a circuit and melting insulation and accidents.