Engine rebuilds Options

[AWD DSM 1]

What are everyone’s experiences with these? I’m staring this 7-bolt in the face, knowing that the day will come only too soon that it will be ripped out and replaced with the bulletproof 6-bolt. I figure everyone else’s experiences might help me with my own indecisiveness, and it would be good reference for some of the newbies (or not so newbies).

My own experience:
91 6-bolt rebuild. Bought a top-line kit from Mach V. This included full gasket set, rings, bearings, freeze plugs, pistons, oil pump with case, all seals, belts, etc. For the most part, I was very happy with the kit. Blew the head gasket about 500 miles later, but I think that was more from me overheating the car than bad parts. Block had minimal machine work done to it, as did the head (although the 2g head was ported to match a 1g intake). Car is still in service and producing an estimated 275+/- hp. Mitsu timing belt, water pump, tensioner, and tensioner pully were all used from a prior acquisition.

What have you guys done? What wouldn’t you do again? What parts would you use only OEM Mitsubishi stuff for? Thoughts on Stainless Steel valves?

So far I’ve got a block, 9:1 JE pistons, and a 1g head that needs valves sitting in my garage.

TIA

Rob

[natedogg]

If I had to do it all over again. I'd do it the same way except upgrade to forged rods, pistons, and arp rod bolts. I've been very happy with my Mitsu 4-layer metal HG, but my block and head were both resurfaced so the 4-layer made up for any chamber space I may have lost. I bought almost all my new OEM parts through conicelli. This would include misc. gaskets, water pump, oil pump, front case, timing belt and components. It may have been a little more expensive than an all inclusive kit, but at least I was assured they were all genuine Mitsu parts (only when that's a good thing, of course ). And of course I upgraded to arp head studs. Another thing I might do differently (which could really be done at any time) is upgrade to the Moroso oil pan. Increased capacity and baffles...good.

As far as the head goes, I'm keeping it bone stock. There are plenty of people out there running 10's on the stock head, and I've read more than a few stories of people (1g's and 2g's alike) actually losing hp from modifying their head even with aftermarket intake manifolds (internet stories mind you, but a few had dyno charts to back it up). I'm not saying this is the case for everyone or even a majority, but just something to keep in mind.

Here's a good head discussion on dsmtalk. Some people that actually seem to know what they are talking about.

http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/showthread.p...ad&pagenumber=1