tranny leak issues Options

[turbohcar]

I've got a leaky passenger side axle shaft seal. Now, how hard is this to replace? I had little to no time to do it tonight and was wanting to tackle it tomorrow after work when I have the part. I've never had problems with this before but apparently this is the problem. I tried to pry on it a little with no results and was afraid to accidentally cause more damage to the transmission than what is already wrong. Marcus, I'm going to guess you've probably had experience with this, any help is appreciated. Thanks
Brett

[Kazz5]

*Watchin' this thread kinda close given recent experience...*

[xian 1g]

the driver side axle isn't all that hard to replace, especially if you're replacing the entire axle and not just the seal.

It sounds like you are fairly well on your way to getting out, so some of these steps might seem belittling to you. thats not the intent. Since I'm not sure what all either of you has done, i will just lay it out from the beginning.

from my reading of your post brett, i'd assume you're being to ginger with it.

i might have a few names wrong here, but this should get you started in the right direction.

you will need:
17mm deep well
17mm open end
an extension for whatever driver you are using
breaker bar
12mm
pb blaster
flat head screw driver
hammer

1. take your wheel off

2. On the back side of your suspension your brake line is bolted in with a 12mm. pb blast it, and take it off.

3. seperate the wheel hub (the piece that holds the brake rotor etc on) from your suspension.
There will be two 17mm bolts that hold this together. spray them down with pb blaster, if you've never taken them off before they may be a biotch. the bolts are fairly long, use the deep well to hold onto the nut side so that you don't spin the bolt, and use the open end on the head side of the bolt.

4. If the wheel hub doesn't fall from the suspension use a little force with your hands or a rubber mallet.

5. Follow the axle up to the transmission, you will see the 'seal'. If your seal is already toast you don't have to be as carefull about not trashing it. wedge the screw driver up in as close as you can to the transmission, you might have to use the hammer... Pry it loose. If your seal isn't trash already becarefull not to mess it up while prying. Once loose, i believe it should just pull out from the wheel hub.

[turbohcar]

Ok, I've already done all but number 5. The front axles were replaced last year and are still in great condition. I was more concerned with the seal itself as it feels like it's hardened and I was a little pretentious to really pry on it and screw something else up that may delay my project more. I've done quite a few motor swaps before in these cars so steps 1-4 were small potatoes but don't feel bad, they were excellent directions for someone who may see this thread and be wondering how the axle dissasembles from the transmission. The seal doesn't look "trashed" as you say, just harder than a rubber grommet seal generally should. I just wanted to know if there was a trick to getting it out without screwing other things up and if there were any precautions I should be concerned with before jumping into it.

[xian 1g]

that's what i figured from your write up and talking to you before. but since i wasn't sure if you had done the other steps, i could see someone trying to pry it out while it's still stuck to the hub.
also, i figured since kazz is watching this thread it might be helpfull to him...

there are no tricks. you can do it without screwing up the seal. just becarefull around it.

[turbohcar]

Thank you for your input however, I want to clarify your post. You said

i could see someone trying to pry it out while it's still stuck to the hub.

and your definition of the wheel hub is " (the piece that holds the brake rotor etc on) from your suspension". I am concerned with the axle shaft seal on the transmission not the hub or "spindle". Just clarifying.

[Justincredible]

you should be able to feel that the seal goes in. its tough to screw something up just dont stick the screwdriver in too far into the tranny.
stick it behind the lip if that makes sense and pry on the back of that.

I would suggest picking up a 7 dollar seal puller. I swear to god it makes it SOOOOOOOOOO much easier. I literally spent almost 1.5 hrs on a seal on my mr2 tranny. broke down and bought it. pulled the seal in no joke 2 minutes.

[xian 1g]

brett-
sorry, using incorrect terms and typing while driving can make my posts hard to understand.
I know you are concerned with the seal near the transmission. what i was trying to say was that i could see someone having problems getting that side of the axle out, becuase that hadn't dropped the suspension yet.
sorry for the confusion... also, i wasn't pointing my finger at you...

[zacd]

how much are seals and where can i get them... i have a leaky one on mine that i should change before i put my transmission back in.

and just a note, whenever i pull the driveshafts i dont bother with the hub and all that. if you take the bolt off at the lower control arm and use a pry bar to lower the arm down while you pull the whole suspension, brake assembly toward you off of the ball joint and that will pull the shaft out of the transmission... i just recomend having somebody under the car helping pull the cv joint while your pulling on the rotor so that you dont pull the shaft out of the cv joint like i did. some people may not like flexing the springs like that, but i dont see why it would matter

[Justincredible]

depends on the car. the seals for my talon where only a couple bucks opposed to the 14. for just on seal on my mr2.

[turbohcar]

AAARRRRRRGGGGGGGG!!! Yet again I am thrown a curveball. My transmission leak may not have been a leaky axle shaft seal at all. Tonight, while poking at the seal with a screwdriver and randomly trying to pry from different angles, I decided to get the creeper out. I got underneath the car and continued my prodding until... I noticed something I hadn't seen before. It was a crack in the transmission casing. Three small cracks all about 1/2 inch long all coming from the same point. It's as if something inside the transmission slammed against the casing and punctured it just enough to crack it. (Insert cursing and screaming here) Now, after my stress relief conference, I jumped in the car and headed to town. Supplies that were on the list were brake cleaner, electronics cleaner, and JB Weld. Realize this, I have never had any experience with JB Weld and had no idea how to use it. Got back to my place, cleaned the wound with the brake cleaner followed by electronics cleaner and then mixed the JB Weld. Hopefully, it'll stick. I got ahold of an old lamp fixture and set it next to the goop to help it cure a little better as the temperature in my garage is probably in the 50 degree range. Now however, I'm dealing with another problem. There is a circular spring retainer ring inside the axle shaft gasket. While prying on the gasket this retainer ring slid out and I cannot get it to go back in. Is this ring absolutely necessary? Hopefully this works! Thanks
Brett

P.S.: I can get the axle shaft seals for about 7 bucks through work.

[Justincredible]

yes it is nessecary. If you pryed on it at all you fubared the seal.

[turbohcar]

Ok here's the update. I couldn't possibly get the driveshaft seal out, I think it's press fit in between two parts of the casing and you have to take the transmission apart to service it to put the new seal in and put that spring retainer ring back in. I could be wrong but honestly, I don't care. If it leaks it leaks. I'll rebuild the sucker if it does I don't really care, SCREW IT! Anyway, the JB Weld looks like it held and hopefully, it won't leak again. I'm probably going to throw it together on Saturday and hope it works. Wish me luck! I'm gonna need it...

[Justincredible]

psst. seal puller. trust me it comes out.

[turbohcar]

Hmmmmmm.....I'll ask around tomorrow at work. Maybe someone will let me take one home if they have one.

[Justincredible]

yea its nothing special. a piece of flat metal with 2 pointy ends. and allows more leverage for starters.

[turbohcar]

THANK YOU JUSTIN. You saved my day. I borrowed a seal puller from work and that thing came out in about thirty seconds. I'll have the new seal Saturday and hopefully be road ready in the afternoon. Thanks again!

[turbohcar]

Here we go. Yet again my car manages to fool me. I got the trans leak fixed, the new seal pressed into the casing in no time and everything went back together flawlessly. Now with all my leaks fixed I hopped in it and fired it up. The computer was still learning the fuel map after the battery was unplugged for so long and I was running entirely too rich. So rich in fact that there is still a black dust spot of unburnt fuel on the back wall of my garage during a WOT rev. Then I hopped out to get a better look at my car and marvel in my astounding mechanical abilities when I noticed something spilling onto the floor. More leaks!!! Now, it's coolant. Somehow the top hose just under the thermostat housing split itself and decided to dump precious coolant all over my garage floor. Oh well, at least this fix will take less time. Maybe then I'll fill it with gear oil and have a little backroads matchup with a certain FWD laser.