Safety first..., What boost to set it at? Options

[DSM5]

MY car is stock when it comes to fuel mods. So what would be a safe setting for my new MBC? I was thinking around 14psi.

[awd4kicks]

14-15 should be ok with the stock fuel system, but no higher (All disclaimers inteded and implied here - boost at your own risk). You will do yourself a big favore by getting an upgraded fuel pump.

[DSM5]

If I upgrade the Fuel pump (Walbro 190?) will it make me richer?

[DSM5]

More mods more boost more kills more fun more breaking


wait a second...

[MidwestDSM]

you'll need a form of air/fuel management and maybe a FPR with a bigger pump to run efficiently, if I am correct

[wortdog]

You need a FPR with a Walbro 255 or larger, and you only need the S-AFC if you change injectors.

[MidwestDSM]

You need a FPR with a Walbro 255 or larger, and you only need the S-AFC if you change injectors.

you'll need a safc once you start modding it though period, especially when upping the boost. unless I am totally off on this...which is likely.

And what am I talking about anyways?!? Tuning is for pussies.

[awd4kicks]

You can tune with boost to a certain extent... Say into the 12's

[haunter]

You need a FPR with a Walbro 255 or larger, and you only need the S-AFC if you change injectors.

you'll need a safc once you start modding it though period, especially when upping the boost. unless I am totally off on this...which is likely.

And what am I talking about anyways?!? Tuning is for pussies.

you never EVER need a safc, get a maf translator instead

[MidwestDSM]

You can tune with boost to a certain extent... Say into the 12's

see, for some reason people laughed when I told them I intended to go to Cordova with paint thinner in my gas tank and a MBC as a form of fuel management.

[JMoushon]

Haunter, forgive me, but I thought you drove a Saturn. I personally run the S-AFC2 quite successfully, and have never had a problem. Just my .02. Also, Eric, although it is probably a good idea to run an adjustable fpr with a 255+ fuel pump, I have the GSS342 high volume/high pressure Walbro, and the stock fpr, it's been over a year and no problems. More of my .02.

[DSM5]

I'm spiking at 15, then it comes back down to 12-13, thanks turboXS(but hey it was free). I'm not going any higher for awhile, but when I looked at my log, my O2 trim said i was running rich.

[MidwestDSM]

I'm spiking at 15, then it comes back down to 12-13, thanks turboXS(but hey it was free).  I'm not going any higher for awhile, but when I looked at my log, my O2 trim said i was running rich.

your boost controller isn't the reason you are creeping. where it is located might be a part of it, but a turboback exhaust and proper port work would decrease creep and hold the peak alot better,

and what is rich to you? encountering any fuel cut at 15psi? any knock? My DSM was running 16psi with a few mods and was hitting fuel cut hard in the cold weather.

[jvb6806]

You need a FPR with a Walbro 255 or larger, and you only need the S-AFC if you change injectors.

you'll need a safc once you start modding it though period, especially when upping the boost. unless I am totally off on this...which is likely.

And what am I talking about anyways?!? Tuning is for pussies.

you never EVER need a safc, get a maf translator instead

yeah i am tuning just fine with my SAFC. i actually prefer the SAFC at this stage of my car because it is easier to tune with. you can datalog and tune on the fly and in the winter weather you can change your maps quickly and easily. when i am putting 300+HP i will probably upgrade to a MAFT but you can find SAFC's for cheap from anywhere, they are easy to install, and are very user friendly.

if you want to vent your BOV to atmosphere or are turning out very high HP number you might want to go with a GM 3"-3.5" MAF to clear restritions but an SAFC and a hacked MAF is a good place to start with when your uping boost on a stock turbo IMO.

try relocating your MBC to off of your intake manifold (if it isn't already there) it should hold more boost to redline. what are your duty cycles at high rpms? if you aren't knocking you should be able to up to boost a bit more. really the only real way to know if you are rich is to use a wideband O2 or maybe an EGT. i would just pick up an AFC and tune for knock at whatever boost you can hit without fuel cut (probably around 13-14psi in this weather i would guess on stock injectors with stock fuel pump).

[KOU In3]

when i am putting 300+HP i will probably upgrade to a MAFT but you can find SAFC's for cheap from anywhere, they are easy to install, and are very user friendly.

if you want to vent your BOV to atmosphere or are turning out very high HP number you might want to go with a GM 3"-3.5" MAF to clear restritions but an SAFC and a hacked MAF is a good place to start with when your uping boost on a stock turbo IMO.

Not sure I agree there. MAFT's can be had used for $150. Same price as an SAFC. The GM MAS can be had cheaply from a junkyard too. Even 14B's tend to spool up a couple of hundred rpm sooner.

Overall, install is MUCH easier for the translator than the SAFC. I don't know of anyone that ever gone back to an SAFC or hadn't made more power/better times with the translator.

And yes, you don't HAVE to remove the restriction of the 1G mas. But you also don't have to port things out to reduce restriction either. Both offer good and easy gains though.

[jvb6806]

i am not saying that the SAFC is superior to the MAFT but for a person who is starting to mod their car it may be a cheaper and more user friendly option for tuning than running a MAFT. i wasn't slamming the MAFT or saying that it isn't a good product. if i had the money at the time i would probably be running a MAFT myself. i was just saying that SAFC's aren't a terrible way to go when tuning your DSM.

well that and i like all the ricey blue lights when i am driving .

[MidwestDSM]

well that and i like all the ricey blue lights when i am driving .

You can take the driver out of the Nism, but you can't take the Nism out of the driver.

[natedogg]

I'm spiking at 15, then it comes back down to 12-13, thanks turboXS(but hey it was free).  I'm not going any higher for awhile, but when I looked at my log, my O2 trim said i was running rich.

your boost controller isn't the reason you are creeping. where it is located might be a part of it, but a turboback exhaust and proper port work would decrease creep and hold the peak alot better,

and what is rich to you? encountering any fuel cut at 15psi? any knock? My DSM was running 16psi with a few mods and was hitting fuel cut hard in the cold weather.

Sounds like he is complaining about booost spike rather than boost creep. Two different things. Boost spike can be caused by the mbc. But if its only spiking to 15 psi, I don't think you have anything to worry about. I've always had good even boost control running my mbc between the compressor outlet nipple and the wastegate actuator.

[haunter]

Overall, install is MUCH easier for the translator than the SAFC. I don't know of anyone that ever gone back to an SAFC or hadn't made more power/better times with the translator.

thats what I was getting at

I may drive the shaturn Moushon, but my DSM info comes from a reliable source


The only reason I am going to use a SAFC is b/c I have no other option, I might even drop the extra doiugh for the black safc2 so that I dont hav ea ricey pooper silver thing on my dash like NISM boy Jim

[DSM5]

Overall, install is MUCH easier for the translator than the SAFC.  I don't know of anyone that ever gone back to an SAFC or hadn't made more power/better times with the translator.

thats what I was getting at

I may drive the shaturn Moushon, but my DSM info comes from a reliable source


The only reason I am going to use a SAFC is b/c I have no other option, I might even drop the extra doiugh for the black safc2 so that I dont hav ea ricey pooper silver thing on my dash like NISM boy Jim

Yeap, thats where mine is. TurboXS is known for spiking (look on tuners). Its no big deal though, because it was free.

And m O2 trim was .90 on my logger. If im not mistaken 1.00 is rich and 0.00 is lean. So wouldn't that meen i was running a tad bit rich. My Fuel trims were all around 110 though, so it was adding fuel.