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> DSM race weights
JMoushon
post Jan 13 2005, 10:07 PM
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Simple question.

Can I get a FWD down to 2300lbs realistically? (2150 wet + me = 2320)

Gross, what does anallube weigh?


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soccerdude61587
post Jan 13 2005, 10:13 PM
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170 lbs you big fatty! laugh.gif
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KOU In3
post Jan 13 2005, 10:41 PM
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I'm pretty sure it's worked its way under 2500 (no driver) with some of his recent work on the car.

Taking 500 pounds out of the car shouldn't be a problem. 600 starts to get a bit tougher.

If you start cutting on things and ditching seatbelts, etc. to go lighter weight it gets a bit simpler.

I'm assuming you'll be ditching the AC, PS, stock seats and seatbelts, etc.?


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akamiami
post Jan 14 2005, 01:04 AM
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it was right at 2500 (+/- 20 lbs.), then I added the cage which was worth it IMHO even though I haven't weighed it with the cage (I'd put a conservative estimate at 100 lbs cage weight). I'm really interested in seeing exactly what the car weighs with a cage myself.

2300 for a FWD should be a cakewalk for you.

Travis is right too. When you look at actually spending big money to get lighter, then the possibilities really start to open up (think custom cf components). I'd think you could conceivably approach 2000 lbs if you got aggressive with it.


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akamiami
post Jan 14 2005, 01:06 AM
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I just noticed you were figuring in your weight as well. That changes things a good deal naturally.

Ranta would be the guy to talk to about light FWD's. He's got the most experience around here by far.


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xian 1g
post Jan 14 2005, 01:39 AM
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you might want to talk to ranta about a diet too... i've heard he's pretty light. I'd like to know what he does way so i can start dropp'n down for vicary day...


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JMoushon
post Jan 14 2005, 06:17 AM
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I actually talked to Ranta the other day, I'll see what he thinks.

I'm taking out everything behind the front seats for sure, no a/c, rear belts, etc.

For the track, I'll probably take everything but the dash and the driver's seat.

According to taboo's hp calculator, I need 380 whp to get into the 10s at 2500lbs. Add 100hp for good measure, enter in the DSM bs factor, and I should be good for low 12s. tongue.gif


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awdnot2
post Jan 14 2005, 09:39 AM
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Our race car weighs 2475 lbs without me in it and its AWD. The T-case, driveshaft, rear diff, rear suspension and sub frame weigh about 300 lbs more than the FWD's. So that puts it a 2175. We have a full roll cage, a full exhuast 3.5" (which will be for sale soon), parachute and mounting and 30 lbs of nitrous related items. I estimate at least 200lbs from those items. Now we're at 1975 lbs. 2150 should be doable without the aid helium filled tires. biggrin.gif


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ranta18
post Jan 14 2005, 10:59 AM
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Hey, I weigh a hefty 140 lbs...LOL. Dam fast metabolism. I eat just as much if not more than most people (other than Kris, he puts food down like beer).

I'm not up on the DSM weights, but from what I've seen and done, there is a lot of things you can do. Hell, I dropped 400 lbs from my Civic without compromising its safety when it was a street car. Now if you going to make it a full drag car, thats where the real fun starts. If I got a look at the car I could say more specific things to do.

Look over the entire car. If its not there to help you go fast, stop, turn, or live through a crash, it doesn't belong there. There are many things that can be done withoug spending much money. Then there are things like chromoly suspension parts that save weight, but you sure pay for it.

Tools to have:
The regulars (screwdrivers, wrenches, sockets, etc)
Jig saw
Sawsall
Die grinder with cutting wheel
Putty knife
Dry ice
Blow torch
Aluminum sheeting
Rivets and rivetor


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xian 1g
post Jan 14 2005, 11:53 AM
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QUOTE
Now we're at 1975 lbs
----wow!!!!!!!!!


james - yank that dash out. there's a lot of wait there... have you scraped out all the sound dampening material? i'll lend a hand there.

under the car there some random pooper metal too.

look around for brackets that used hold crap in. door panels, and then pop the plastic fasteners out of the door.

how far are you willing to go?

ranta... 140. i can do that easy as pie. when my mouth was wired shut, i dropped down to 109 at six four. 140 won't be a problem.


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soccerdude61587
post Jan 14 2005, 11:58 AM
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im at 6 foot and weigh a constant 145
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haunter
post Jan 14 2005, 11:59 AM
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QUOTE (xian 1g @ Jan 14 2005, 11:53 AM)
when my mouth was wired shut

god that was a sad time around the shop



ya know james, my car is under 2300 already, lets just swap motors/tranny and call it a day biggrin.gif


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awd4kicks
post Jan 14 2005, 04:47 PM
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+/-3250 with driver in the 12's...What are weight savings?


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mark95turbo
post Jan 15 2005, 12:46 PM
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QUOTE (awd4kicks @ Jan 14 2005, 10:47 PM)
+/-3250 with driver in the 12's...What are weight savings?

And that was like back in 2000 marcus. biggrin.gif


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awd4kicks
post Jan 15 2005, 01:10 PM
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laugh.gif It was a Long time ago, but that was actually October of 2002. Engine ran good through July of 2003 when I took it out at Midnight Mayhem in Cordova in hopes of a 12.5 or lower at the same weight and with the same turbo. Engine said No More.

Just imagine how fast that full weight car could have gone in the last 1 1/2 years had the engine held up or one of the many transplant attempts worked out!

Sorry for the 'jack' James


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KOU In3
post Jan 15 2005, 01:45 PM
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QUOTE (awd4kicks @ Jan 14 2005, 10:47 PM)
+/-3250 with driver in the 12's...What are weight savings?

tongue.gif Probably what kept you from taking the national 14b record at the time. tongue.gif


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JMoushon
post Jan 15 2005, 04:48 PM
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Darryl, since you have experience on the more serious racing level...

What are the serious fwd guys running? Do they find it easier to get the quick et's due to the lower weight? I would think that with the right suspension and traction set-up it would be relatively easy to get competitive 60' times, and run out an awd on the big end. Am I anywhere near accurate?


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ranta18
post Jan 15 2005, 07:53 PM
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No matter what, less weight = lower ets. Simple power to weight ratio. What shocks most people (and what most don't know) is that on a full all out drag FWD that other car that we shall not name, you can spend $70 on the entire shock and coilover setup and pull 1.3-1.4 60fts. With the right traction bar in the front and rear of course.


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awd4kicks
post Jan 15 2005, 08:20 PM
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BTW - What were your 60ft. times when you ran the high 12's Ranta?

It would be an incredible buy if we could buy anything that would drop our FWD or AWD's for that matter into the 1.3-1.4 60ft. times for under $100!! Heck, Darryl is still trying to get his 9 second car into the 1.4 60ft. times and my best has been a 1.70...


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awdnot2
post Jan 15 2005, 08:32 PM
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James

The FWD that other car that we shall not name guys are lighter so of course it helps the ET's. The 60 foots for them are not a issue at all. They pull 1.3's and 1.4's no problem. The AWD helps out when the track goes south. When the track is bad you'll see excessive wheelspin off the line and sometimes wheelspin mid track. Hell we've had swheelspin at mid track. The top end pull on the FWD is crazy.

We had 1.4 60's in 03 and then dropped to 1.5's in 04. After talking to John we have some changes that should get us back into the 1.4's although its more than
$100.


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