Clutch/Trans Swap Options

[turbohcar]

Currently, I'm putting together a clutch/transmission swap. I've got a new transmission to replace the explodered one and last year I bought an ACT 2600 with a street disc at a really good price. To go along with the clutch, I bought an ACT Streetlite flywheel and I'm currently waiting for it to come in the mail.

Now, to add to this I was looking into a billet steel clutch fork (for the added pressure) and clutch pedal bushings (to weld the clutch linkage to the pedal) along with this setup. Anyone with experience and some good mileage on a 2600 have any advice about my choices? Basically, is it necessary, for long term use, to have a billet steel clutch fork? or weld the clutch linkage to the pedal? I know Taxiwardance had problems with his linkage, has anyone else? The other option to billet steel is cryotreating. I could have the fork cryotreated for considerably less. Is this a good alternative or not? I'm also thinking about getting Forced Performance's longer flywheel/clutch bolts because the stock ones don't seem to go in as far with an aftermarket flywheel. Anyone have experience with this or have a clutch fly off because of it? Any comments welcome, thanks

Brett

Clutch Pedal Modification
Clutch Fork and Clutch Pedal Bushings (middle of the page)
FP Flywheel Bolts

[Taxiwardance]

I've got around 20,000 miles and 9 months or so on my daily driven act 2600 with xact flywheel. Only thing extra I have on mine is the TSS clutch fork because I've seen a couple stock forks fail with the 2600. I wish I would have known about the clutch pedal modification before but after the amount of BS I went through getting the pedal assembly out I will NEVER get in their again. So I am welding the clutch lever and getting the bushings even though the ones I took out looked to be in perfect shape. I wasn’t even aware of the flywheel bolts? But I had also never heard of the clutch pedal problem until it happened to me. I would say go with whatever kind of insurance your budget allows.

[wortdog]

The ACT flywheel is the same thickness as stock, you do not need the FP bolts. New bolts are never a bad idea though.

My black Talon had a badly worn clutch pedal linkage with just running a stock clutch for 100k, my teal one has over 160k and the linkage is fine. Seems to be hit or miss, but you will eventually wear it out with a 2600.

Also consider putting a washer underneath the pivot ball for the clutch fork, it helps position it so you can get a better angle/more travel with the fork.

[turbohcar]

Never heard of the clutch fork washer fix. Interesting though. Are you absolutely positive that the ACT flywheel is the same thickness as stock? Are new bolts really worth $45 + shipping either? I trust you Eric, I just want to make sure that you're positive on this. Thanks

[wortdog]

I'm pretty sure they are, I just put my ACT Flywheel on the teal car last week, and there was definately enough thread with the stock bolts. The description for the bolts does mention that they're for aluminum flywheels, and the ACT is a chromoly flywheel.

[turbohcar]

Good point wortdog. Thanks

[wortdog]

Here's a link for more information on the pivot ball washer mod:

http://www.taboospeedshop.com/clutch.htm

[turbohcar]

Thanks again Eric, I hadn't seen that part yet.

I've decided on going with the bushings from TSS, a stronger clutch fork, and I'll pass on the bolts for now. I'll see what it looks like when I get the new flywheel.

Now, has anyone had any experience with cryotreatment? I've heard only good things about it but just how much stronger does it make the cryotreated element? Specifically, how much stronger would it make a clutch fork and or, would the treated fork be able to withstand the forces of the 2600? I can have it treated for significantly less, but money really isn't the issue. It's more of, what does it need to be reliable and if I can save $60 that's 60 more I can put to something else like tires.

[turbohcar]

Ok, today I took the clutch fork, throw out bearing, and pivot ball out of the transmission. Pivot ball looks ok, clutch fork looks ok (to me), and the old throw out bearing I just threw out. What are some things to look for when inspecting the clutch fork? It does have one small ridge inside the bowl portion were the slave cylinder shaft goes in. The pivot ball has some small grooves in it but nothing I would consider serious. They're more like really slight wear patterns. Here's some pics

slave cylinder shaft end
Entire fork itself
Pivot ball portion
Pivot ball
Old TOB

[wortdog]

I'd go ahead and put one washer in under the pivot ball, it can do nothing but help. The clutch fork looks good, as does the pivot ball. Looks like it could use some grease though