clutch question, my pedal is funky Options

[scrapin_frame]

my clutch feels very odd... when you push it in, it is a little stiffer than stock, but half wasy down it gets really stiff. engagement is pretty close to the floor.. now i'm fairly certain it is an oem equivilant clutch. and the clutch is in good condition. so what do you guys think it could be? pedal assembly shot? or is my clutch just a freak of nature?

btw, took my car for its first drive last night since being rebuilt... open dp.. while a little loud, still tolerable... could hear the turbo spool pretty well.. and i was pretty surprised at how fast she spooled. hit 16lbs real quick. also surprised that i didnt fuel cut. anyway, good times! and although the car has been down since i bought it in october and i am ridiculously anxious to bring it home, i must keep it in the shop a little longer... gotta get the fuel pump rewired, put in the supra pump, and put on the new shocks and springs.. and if i can save up enough extra cash get some fic 660cc injectors and an aeromotive fpr.. and gotta get an eprom ecu... gotta love the never ending quest for speed...

anyway, thanks in advance for any input

john

[BudmannG]

I had the same problem once with my 1g. It was the throw out bearing. I dropped the tranny again and lubed it up, and put it back in. Worked great after that lube job on the shaft.

[Kazz5]

My advice, as ignorant as I may be of your model and issues, would be to bleed the slave cylinder thoroughly and look at adjusting the clutch at the pedal. You can raise the engagement point there. But inconsistent feel would take me to bleeding it first ... *Shrugs*

Good luck!

[turbohcar]

Clutch problems could be...

Low clutch fluid
Air in the clutch line
Worn out clutch pedal assembly
Unlubricated transmission input shaft
Worn out slave cylinder
Worn out master cylinder
Old/rotting clutch line (the rubber part near the trans)
TOB is old and worn out

Now, the part where you said you're putting a Supra pump in before you put in the Aeromotive AFPR is what caught my eye. Do these two mods at one time! The Supra pump will definitely overflow the stock fuel pressure regulator and drown the car. You can't even adjust for it with an SAFC, it's just too much fuel. Rewire the stock pump until you can get the Aeromotive AFPR.

[scrapin_frame]

Clutch problems could be...

Low clutch fluid
Air in the clutch line
Worn out clutch pedal assembly
Unlubricated transmission input shaft
Worn out slave cylinder
Worn out master cylinder
Old/rotting clutch line (the rubber part near the trans)
TOB is old and worn out

Now, the part where you said you're putting a Supra pump in before you put in the Aeromotive AFPR is what caught my eye. Do these two mods at one time! The Supra pump will definitely overflow the stock fuel pressure regulator and drown the car. You can't even adjust for it with an SAFC, it's just too much fuel. Rewire the stock pump until you can get the Aeromotive AFPR.

let me give some background on the car... i picked up the car pretty cheap with the interest of fixing it or parting it out. i got the car not running and missing several parts.
the previous owner had just had the head rebuilt, and while driving it home, the car overheated and he just parked it and never tried to start it again.
so i started with a big mystery
here is the list of what was wrong.. several broken wires in the engine bay, several vac lines missing, charcoal canister gone, oil pump locked up, balance shafts didnt turn smoothly, balance belt was shredded, timing had jumped(but didnt take out the valves thank god!), exhaust manifold was cracked all across the bottom and welded back rather poorly, seals in turbo were bad and it was puking oil, exhaust was cut off on the downpipe right behind the flex. upon fixing everything and firing the car, we heard a rod knocking.. so tore the engine down and got a short block.

so here is what has been done/replaced so far:
water pump
oil pump
timing belt, tensioner, and pulleys
balance shaft elimination
battery
ported 2g exhaust mani
stock turbo
90 oil cooler
144 turbo to mas pipe
mbc
emissions removed
currently open downpipe
boost gauge

parts sitting waiting to be installed:
2g throttlebody elbow
TT supra fuel pump
fuel pump rewire kit
kyb agx's
sprint springs
valve cover(found a crack in the original one)
3" magnaflow race muffler and a 3" flex section. just need to find a bigger o2 housing and then start building the exhaust. oh yea there will be a cut out on it as well.

anyway, the clutch felt this way before when i first got it, it felt like that for the previous owner too. there is no problem with engagement. we inspected the clutch when it was out and it looked like it was new.

as far as the supra pump goes, i know that with the stock fpr that it could and most likely will overrun the injectors. but the car is just sitting for now. so before i actually get it out and really run it, i will most likely get the aeromotive fpr(although i am not sure which one to get, so i could use some advice on that), injectors, and eprom ecu.
would like to get a wideband and logger as well before i run it much. i am gonna try to buy buds palm logger right now.
i will most likely build my own uicp and possibly licp as well

my goal is to get the car done by the scdc so i can get my ass handed to me. but who am i kidding... it will prly never be done... at least til i switch to an awd platform... which i should have started with from the beginning. but oh well.
sorry for being so long winded.

[turbohcar]

http://www.diamondstarmotorsport.com/fuelparts.shtml

$159, about halfway down the page. With the Aeromotive you'll need stainless lines to run to it as well, which DSMotorsport sells seperately for another $100. Otherwise you buy your own seperately and build the line yourself.

The reason you need the stainless lines is because the Aeromotive AFPR does not bolt directly to the fuel rail. The stainless lines run from the fuel rail to the AFPR, which you mount on the firewall.

[scrapin_frame]

http://www.diamondstarmotorsport.com/fuelparts.shtml

$159, about halfway down the page. With the Aeromotive you'll need stainless lines to run to it as well, which DSMotorsport sells seperately for another $100. Otherwise you buy your own seperately and build the line yourself.

The reason you need the stainless lines is because the Aeromotive AFPR does not bolt directly to the fuel rail. The stainless lines run from the fuel rail to the AFPR, which you mount on the firewall.

i'm sorry i didnt clarify. i know all this. the advice i need on the aeromotive fpr is which one to get. i have seen two different ones. having different part numbers i assume there is more difference than just the color(one being red and black the other being red and silver) i'm not sure of the part numbers at the moment.
i know the question is very vague, but is there really much difference in these... i looked on ams' website and on slowboy. they have two different looking aeromotive fpr's

thanks

[turbohcar]

Easiest way to tell, call them.

Aeromotive, Inc.
7805 Barton Street
Lenexa, KS 66214

Phone: 913-647-7300
Fax: 913-647-7207
Email: info@aeromotiveinc.com
Tech Email: tech@aeromotiveinc.com


http://www.aeromotiveinc.com/contact.html

[akamiami]

my aeromotive afpr is red and silver and I like it just as much as I enjoy ice cream but for different reasons.

I'm guessing here, but perhaps the red and black one is for carb'd cars or the type that use mechanical fuel pumps, so it is designed to run at significantly lower pressure.

[scrapin_frame]

well i have seen both installed on dsm's so i guess i wont really know til i call the company, but it does seem that i see the red and silver more often.

the only place(aside from the aeromotive website) i've found that has both of the ones i'm talking about is here http://www.fuelinjectorclinic.com/cart/fuel_p_regulators.htm

although now i notice that it says "Intended for use with Custom Fuel Rail use with 1000hp in line fuel pump"
so i guess its the red and silver for me

[scrapin_frame]

one other thing i was wondering. i can pick up a 90 eprom ecu for a pretty good price. i know i have to swap pins for it to work in my 91. wort was telling me that my tach might not work anymore though. does it always happen or is it a hit or miss problem. why does it happen, and what would need to be done to get the tach working again?

thanks

[BudmannG]

Aftermarket Tach

[scrapin_frame]

that was one thing i wanted to avoid. i'm trying to keep the windshield free of obstructions so i can see all the cones i'm gonna hit in autocross
mounting on top of the the steering column is out cuz i am saving that for turbo timer or plx..

[BudmannG]

You can put it on the right side of the dash. Passangers side! Asian kid had his mounted this way you might ask him about it.