Car keeps dieing!, When I push in clutch. Options

[BudmannG]

Adjustment hasn't been messed with since I got the car.

Slave could be a possiblity, But there is no fluid anywhere around it or coming out of it.

Master Is a real good possibility, I looked late last night and it has a drip on the inside of the car but nothing on the floor. The flat part of the boot has moistuer on it also.

Fluid is at the top!

[turbohcar]

There doesn't have to be a leak for it to be faulty. Fluid could be bypassing the seals somewhere else. I.E.: Back into the resivoir while you depress the pedal. Just because the adjustment hasn't been touched since you got it doesn't mean it couldn't have backed off in that time.

Hurry up and get it together, the F-body is hungry!!!

[BudmannG]

I am picking up the master and slave cylinder and a new TOB tomorrow. I just don't trust the one I have. If I put pressure against it I can feel it catching in certain areas.
So that means everything will be new for the clutch.

Now about this washer for the fork. How big does it have to be? Does it set flat against the bell housing? Or just big enough for the ball?

[turbohcar]

You unbolt the ball from the bell housing (it's a ball with a bolt on it basically) and it comes out. You use about a 1/16th -1/8th inch thick washer and just put it between the bell housing and the head of the bolt when you put it back together.

[BudmannG]

Ok I got that.

I am taking this time to fix some other problems like oil leaks every where.
First I have my extra oil pan at a welder friends house. It is going to have a -10 an fitting welded in for the oil return line. Next I am going to pick up a oil cool and lines from asiankid. That will fix another leak that I have. I do have a question, on my oil gauge fitting am I supposed to add pipe tape to it? It is leaking from around there also.

Next I had a problem taking the brake calipers off in the tear down. I took the time to clean them of all rust and greased up ready to go. I took the rotors in and had them turned today also. Just for added precaution!

[turbohcar]

The oil gauge fitting should be pipe thread and won't require thread sealant.

[BudmannG]

Should have pulled the clutch while I had it apart. It is still making the noise it had before. It alsmost sounds like a power steering belt, That is when I am letting out on the clutch.

[turbohcar]

Freakin rediculous is what I'd say!! You don't want to know my answer for your problem right now. It involves selling your car and buying an F-body.

[BudmannG]

Funny thing is man, I went out after I posted this up and moved the car. When I moved it in to the driveway to start tearing her apart again, It stopped making the noise. Every once in awhilie you can hear it wining. But the clutch itself is fine on release. Grabs everytime!!!

[turbohcar]

Did you try the hydraulic test I suggested earlier? The one where you get someone else to stand on the clutch for you and see just how far it actually moves? Make sure your hydraulics are in good working order despite the whining, you don't want it happening again.

[BudmannG]

OK I am beting on the pressure plate. It drove great all day and had a great pedal. Then I sped up in second and let off to make my turn and then it starts again.

[BudmannG]

I am planning on putting the stock pressure plate back in this weekend. I had a couple of questions, If I may.
Will this work with the 6 puck that I have in the car? Will it cause problems at the track for me? Does anyone have a pressure plate they want to sell, LOL?

[awd4kicks]

It will physicaly work Bud. People change and crossbrands/styles of friction disks and pressure plates all the time. That being said, I have no idea how well it will hold or how easy it will be to drive on the street.

I'm not sure I follow how the pressure plate could be the problem though. You are still talking about a screaching noise of some sort aren't you? Did you notice something about the pressure plate when you had it off (Like worn fingers) that is making you suspect the pressure plate?

[turbohcar]

It will physicaly work Bud. People change and crossbrands/styles of friction disks and pressure plates all the time. That being said, I have no idea how well it will hold or how easy it will be to drive on the street.

I'm not sure I follow how the pressure plate could be the problem though. You are still talking about a screaching noise of some sort aren't you? Did you notice something about the pressure plate when you had it off (Like worn fingers) that is making you suspect the pressure plate?

Agreed. Like I said before, those fingers are supposed to be flat or darn near it when you tighten the bolts down. I have a feeling something else is amiss...

[mitsu90]

all you will ever need

[BudmannG]

Is there a way to check the pressure plate? I have narrowed it down to the PP because I have replaced everything else in the clutch system.

[awd4kicks]

Theres no way to check the pressure plate thoroughly without removing the transmission. If you had a bore-scope you may be able to check out some of it through the clutch fork boot. Those are kind of hard to see the big picture with though.

[BudmannG]

First off I have to give out mad props to my cousin Mike. He came down after work and we diagnosed the car. Then we came to the conclusion it has to come out. He stayed and helped me get it out of the car and didn't have too.

Well here it is I was surprised to find that the flywheel bolts had backed out. WOW!!!! So either my dumbass forgot to torque them or they vibrated out on there own. But I did find my problem! I have spare bolts to put in, and I am definetely putting lock tight on them this time.

Here are some pictures for you to gander at.

[turbohcar]

Loc-Tite FTW!

[awd4kicks]

That's not the first time that has happened. Normally when it happens all the bolts begin to back out and the flywheel starts making noise. It's strange that only a couple of bolts were backing out and it's interesting to think how that messed with your clutch disc making noise.

Good find.