Dimming lights Options

[jbiggs97]

I have had this issue for many months and recently have decided to try and solve it. I know that when stopped with my, lights/ac/defrost/radio/brake pedal pushed the volt reading off my turbo timing drops considerably hence the dimming of the lights. Sometimes the volts will slowly rise back up to 13.5 and sometime they stay down as low as 12.2. At idle I tested the the terminals with a volt meter and it reads 14.3v. According to what I have been reading this tells me the altenator is working fine....could the regulator in the altenator be bad......any thoughts on this. I am getting ready to start doing some other mods and thought I would try and get this out of the way.

Jordan

I have already tried a grounding kit and that didn't help.

[97TalonTSI]

Mine goes as low as 12.5 sometimes to. But I am surprised my stuff works at all sometimes with all the splices and wiring stuff we have done to the car. To get a accurate reading of the alt. you need to take it off and have one of the parts stores test it. I am not sure it testing while on the car is as accurate. It will put out different volts/amps under a load and not. My 2cents is to take it off and then have them test it then you will know for sure.

[JBone]

Are you saying that you have all those accessories on while stopped? If so, then that will happen with damn near every car. That's a lot of amperage for a low speed on the alternator. If you merely forgot to add the word "off" after listing those accessories, then you may have an issue.

Also, how old is the battery? Sometimes the alternator will be fine, but maybe the battery is on it's way out.

I agree with 97TalonTSI, have both components checked by someone.

[black92_tsi_awd]

Check the belt tension too. Since it's not self adjusting the belt can get loose and the voltage will drop due to slippage.

[jbiggs97]

I should have said just one of two of those at a time. I have noticed that lights with the rear defrost is by far the worst. The volts will stay down around 12.2 with just those two on. I just replaced the batter yesterday so I will watch and see what is does. I had the altenator tested while in the car by two places and of course one said is was fine and the other said it was bad. I will go ahead and pull it this weekened and have it tested out off the car to see what they say than. It looks like my turbo timer took a crap last night and will not work anymore so I have no idea what volts I am getting now. I still tested with a volt meter and was getting 14.3 volts at the battery while at idle. Thanks for the input guys.

[JBone]

The lights (head and brake) and defroster are the largest current sources that your car uses. They will always put a drain on your car at idle. It does it with my truck. You should see the current the turn signal draws. I love watching my little voltmeter in my truck swing when that's on. If your car is running fine at idle with these components, then I would venture to say everything is okay with your car.

[doayamaha]

i would say that your battery isn't take a charge very well. take it some where and have it load tested.

[ncgalant]

The lights (head and brake) and defroster are the largest current sources that your car uses. They will always put a drain on your car at idle. It does it with my truck. You should see the current the turn signal draws. I love watching my little voltmeter in my truck swing when that's on. If your car is running fine at idle with these components, then I would venture to say everything is okay with your car.

ever hear a walbaro 255 with the turn signal on? reeee rrrr reeee rrrrr with the signal. Got to love it.

Ok, to the matter at hand. Lets look at this logically. If you have 14v at the alternator and 12V everywhere else, then the problem would seem to be between the alternator and the main box, perhaps that wire is worn.