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> finally doing timing belt on the GSX
SCCA Stang
post Mar 21 2007, 11:51 PM
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Hey guys....

I am finally doing the timing belt on my '93 GSX... the car currenty has 108K on the clock, about 48K on the old belt, but now over 6 years (and hard years at that)

I am prepping the car for the up coming race season and don't want to take the chance on the belt going south.

ordered and received the greddy kevlar belt, OEM tensioner, and new water pump.

looks like I have a few hours to spend under the hood of the ol beast this weekend..... I know that Vfaq has the procedure and so does my service manual, but does anyone have any real world advice to add before I dive into this one head first????


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awd4kicks
post Mar 22 2007, 06:40 AM
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Allow plenty of time. Take your time. And don't be afraid to yank the belt off and start over if you're not happy with the line-up or tension.


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turbohcar
post Mar 22 2007, 04:14 PM
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Get a timing alignment tool or borrow one if you can. Make sure to spin the crank over a couple times (I can't remember how many, Rob would know) and make sure that the cam gears are still in time. Get a friend to help, it's about a three or four handed job if you don't have an alignment tool.


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awd4kicks
post Mar 22 2007, 04:38 PM
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BAH... I don't need no stinking alignment tool! tongue.gif

And it is six times that you rotate the crank to make sure everything is still lined up.

The biggest mistake most make is not phasing the oil pump sprocket correctly if you are still running balance shafts.


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ncgalant
post Mar 22 2007, 06:43 PM
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QUOTE (awd4kicks @ Mar 22 2007, 04:38 PM)
BAH... I don't need no stinking alignment tool! tongue.gif

And it is six times that you rotate the crank to make sure everything is still lined up.

The biggest mistake most make is not phasing the oil pump sprocket correctly if you are still running balance shafts.

That'll make for a bumpy ride biggrin.gif


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SCCA Stang
post Mar 22 2007, 08:30 PM
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QUOTE (Spyonu2007 @ Mar 22 2007, 07:39 PM)
Its been six years since I had that belt changed?
Man, how the time flys.

yes sir..... it was six years ago.

thanks guys for all of your help.... I have a freind coming over and he does have all of the alignment tolls and such and he has done several belts... just thought I would check with you all as well.


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The Iron Goat
post Mar 24 2007, 06:31 AM
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QUOTE (ncgalant @ Mar 22 2007, 06:43 PM)
QUOTE (awd4kicks @ Mar 22 2007, 04:38 PM)
BAH... I don't need no stinking alignment tool! tongue.gif

And it is six times that you rotate the crank to make sure everything is still lined up.

The biggest mistake most make is not phasing the oil pump sprocket correctly if you are still running balance shafts.

That'll make for a bumpy ride biggrin.gif

And difficulty revving past 3k, and possibly a grenaded crank pully. Not that this ever happened to me after some piece of crap nameless mechanic did a belt job on my 90 laser. Just a theory. ph34r.gif

Edit: Rob, this isn't you, buddy!!! biggrin.gif


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QUOTE (gsxracer80 @ Oct 31 2006, 12:41 AM)
thanks hcar.... I am still massaging that area trying to get it ready...
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SCCA Stang
post Mar 25 2007, 09:06 PM
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timing belt install was a complete success....

the motor barred over about 10 full Revolutions with-out any signs of problems....

the next step is getting the fuel system and ignition re-installed, not to mention some agressive tuning time and it looks to be go-time for the up coming autoX season.

BTW... when I pulled my ingectors I found that the guy who installed my injectors double gasketed the thick O ring on the bottom of #4 injector and twisted the O ring on #2.... so some definate logging has to take place to re-tune it on a good injector install..... this explains a lot of my boost leak down.

I am also eliminating the EGR and the throttle body coolant lines in this process.


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turbohcar
post Mar 26 2007, 06:17 AM
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QUOTE (gsxracer80 @ Mar 25 2007, 09:06 PM)
I am also eliminating the EGR and the throttle body coolant lines in this process.

ohmy.gif You're still running that crap??!!? LOL


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SCCA Stang
post Mar 26 2007, 12:58 PM
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QUOTE (turbohcar @ Mar 26 2007, 06:17 AM)
QUOTE (gsxracer80 @ Mar 25 2007, 09:06 PM)
I am also eliminating the EGR and the throttle body coolant lines in this process.

ohmy.gif You're still running that crap??!!? LOL

not any more


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black92_tsi_awd
post Mar 26 2007, 01:44 PM
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Does it idle OK without the coolant lines? I thought the FIAV (??) on the throttle body needs engine temp to idle correctly. If I'm off base, please tell me...


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SCCA Stang
post Mar 26 2007, 11:28 PM
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QUOTE (black92_tsi_awd @ Mar 26 2007, 01:44 PM)
Does it idle OK without the coolant lines? I thought the FIAV (??) on the throttle body needs engine temp to idle correctly. If I'm off base, please tell me...

won't know till the fuel and ignition is hooked back up


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turbohcar
post Mar 27 2007, 06:24 AM
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QUOTE (black92_tsi_awd @ Mar 26 2007, 01:44 PM)
Does it idle OK without the coolant lines? I thought the FIAV (??) on the throttle body needs engine temp to idle correctly. If I'm off base, please tell me...

Mine idled perfect without the coolant lines, EGR, and I eliminated the heater core. I basically just ran took a longer heater core line and bent it back around so that it went straight back into the engine (at the time I thought my heater core was plugged). In no way do I actually reccomend rerouting the heater core lines unless you're eliminating the HVAC all together because although it's minimal, it still acts as a miniature heat exchanger.

Just because my car didn't have any idle problems doesn't mean that yours won't though. I would think the way to fix it is an Eprom chip burn.

FIAV=IAT? (intake air temperature sensor)


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SCCA Stang
post Mar 27 2007, 12:50 PM
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QUOTE (turbohcar @ Mar 27 2007, 06:24 AM)
QUOTE (black92_tsi_awd @ Mar 26 2007, 01:44 PM)
Does it idle OK without the coolant lines?  I thought the FIAV (??) on the throttle body needs engine temp to idle correctly.  If I'm off base, please tell me...

Mine idled perfect without the coolant lines, EGR, and I eliminated the heater core. I basically just ran took a longer heater core line and bent it back around so that it went straight back into the engine (at the time I thought my heater core was plugged). In no way do I actually reccomend rerouting the heater core lines unless you're eliminating the HVAC all together because although it's minimal, it still acts as a miniature heat exchanger.

Just because my car didn't have any idle problems doesn't mean that yours won't though. I would think the way to fix it is an Eprom chip burn.

FIAV=IAT? (intake air temperature sensor)

I figure that if the coolant lines acted upon the idle it would simply run as though the engine were at ambiant air temp and never warmed up.... and at cold start the engine runs fine, so it shouldn't run any differently with out the coolant lines.


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AWD DSM 1
post Mar 27 2007, 01:26 PM
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QUOTE (turbohcar @ Mar 27 2007, 06:24 AM)
QUOTE (black92_tsi_awd @ Mar 26 2007, 01:44 PM)
Does it idle OK without the coolant lines?  I thought the FIAV (??) on the throttle body needs engine temp to idle correctly.  If I'm off base, please tell me...

Mine idled perfect without the coolant lines, EGR, and I eliminated the heater core. I basically just ran took a longer heater core line and bent it back around so that it went straight back into the engine (at the time I thought my heater core was plugged). In no way do I actually reccomend rerouting the heater core lines unless you're eliminating the HVAC all together because although it's minimal, it still acts as a miniature heat exchanger.

Just because my car didn't have any idle problems doesn't mean that yours won't though. I would think the way to fix it is an Eprom chip burn.

FIAV=IAT? (intake air temperature sensor)

not quite true... when I put the motor in my car I couldn't get the idle to settle down ( around 2500-3k if I remember right). hooked the tb coolant lines and it ran fine. There is a way around it that I can't think of off the top of my head, but I don't think it's worth it IMHO... no real power gains to be had there.


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natedogg
post Mar 27 2007, 02:23 PM
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Basically, your mileage may vary. Some engines have high idle when the tb coolant lines are detached, some not. I for example have not had idle problems after disconnecting the tb coolant lines on any of the DSM's I've owned to date.
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