Looking for a starter relay Options

[awd4kicks]

Another thing you might try is a different EPROM chip. It would have to be flashed to your specs, but it might be safer than putting another ECU in there with the danger of electrical problems. I'm almost positive the ECU will be fine since the car is still running and you don't see any signs of fryage on yours, but just thought I'd bring up another suggestion.

I have an extra EPROM chip that you are more than welcome to. Its just flashed to 450cc injectors right now, but I'm sure NC could reflash it to whatever you need.

Thanks Natedogg. Fortunately NC left me like 6 EPROMS preflashed for different settings. I have swapped the EPROM out for the next level up numerous times with no changes in the symptoms to date. (I was thinking the same way as you are though.)

[awd4kicks]

Ok time for a update...

I did quite a bit of troubleshooting yesterday mostly with a lot of help from our DSM brethren. Thank you all for your time.

Dan used his experienced eye to look over my EPROM ECU. He didn't see any major problems or burnt items. He did however find quite a bit of corrosion on the EPROM socket. He cleaned it all out the best he could. Then he turned the board over and found a bit more rust or corrosion on the board, but it was not shorting anything out. He cleaned it off as well and coated these areas with electronic cleaner/lubricant. I REALLY thought this would be the cure for my ails. By the first acceleration of my test drive it was clear that nothing had changed.

We then replaced my 3.5" GM MAF with Dan's... still had the same result.

We thought the next best step would be to see what code is in the ECU for the 'Check Engine' light and since the logger wouldn't work we made our way around Peoria and East Peoria to try my logger on others DSM's to see if it was a logger problem or just my car. We couldn't get the logger to communicate with any other DSM's! (BTW -It's not easy finding DSM's around our area with the factory ECU still in them!)

So I made my way over to Josh's to use his scanner. Once the scanner was hooked up I found one code for the MAS Air sensor (I'm not sure how much I trust this because it is a GM MAF, but the code has never been there before). While there I checked the TPS sensor to make sure it was reading and it measured from .410 at rest to 4.995 at WOT, so it seems to be working. However, it was obvious that something else was going on. As I was checking these things the scanner kept flashing to another screen and back so quickly that I couldn't read it. Eventually that screen stayed on and it stated that there was no communication from the ECU and to check my connections. Ahhh. I knew all of the connections were ok, but we had been leary of the ignition switch since I had been having trouble with the engine starting.

So I pulled the ignition switch and disassembled it. The old Di-electric grease was dry and caked and there were a couple divits where the electrodes generally park. So I cleaned it all up and polished the connection to get rid of the divits. I plugged the ignition switch back in and cranked the engine over fine... but still no connection with the scanner.

So I'm back to the ECU. I've fixed a lot of minor issues and done some needed maintenance, but the engine still falls on it's face at 5-10psi of boost. So I would still like to borrow someones EPROM ECU to see if this is indeed the problem.

Thanks

[mitsu90]

I got an eprom but it's of no use to either of us,

[black92_tsi_awd]

Well did my ecu fix the problem??

[awd4kicks]

Fortunately (finsncially) it did NOT fix my problem.

Unfortunately this means I still have not found the fix but I now have my cross hairs trained on the MAFT and it's wiring since the Check Engine code is for the MAS Air Sensor. I'm not looking forward to tearing apart all of the custom MAFT wiring to check it out


Thanks a ton for going out of your way to help me out Chris. I've been working through a tooth infection for the past couple days in the midst of a root canal, so I'm not getting to this stuff very quickly.

[black92_tsi_awd]

Sorry to hear that the ecu didn't fix it...no problem borrowing the ecu. You've helped me out a ton.

Did your scanner work with my ecu? I should have left you my logger to try, although you may have aleady tried that.

I have another GM MAF (3") if you need to borrow it.

Did you check the main battery cables(pos and neg) for high resistance?

[JMoushon]

<Mechanic cap on>

The DLC malfunction sounds like an open in a circuit for that connector. The rapid blinking of JS's scanner when plugged in can support that in a way. How could that symptom be related to the cut at mid-boost?

If the ECU didn't fix the issue, perhaps the connector for the ecu has a stretched terminal that is not making contact, or a terminal is physically backed out of the connector... Are all of your fire-wall passages grommetted?

[natedogg]

I'm fairly free this weekend if you want a hand tracing wires. I probably won't be able to make it out to Washburn, but if you're out and about and want a hand tracing those MAFT wires give me a shout. I've had a lot of practice troubleshooting prototype Cat harnesses with design or manufacturing flaws. Course having a schematic handy helps...

[awd4kicks]

Well, I think that I have finally beaten down most of the gremlins this go-round.

Last night I went through the entire MAF-T harness that is custom tied directly into the ECU harness under the dash.

Long story short..I found two MAFT wires had pulled out of their connectors from the ECU harness. With those repaired the engine started and ran, but still had the burbly-back-firing idle. This morning I got in it to drive to work and the EPROM chip gave up the ghost over night!?! WTF. So I switched the EPROM chip and all is well.

I am again at the point of wondering if these standard maintenance items have made the car faster or if it's just been too long since I've gotten in the boost.

Let's summarize the current repairs so far:

Tightened loosening alternator bolts
Repair three grounds at ECU
Added a large ground to the motor
Had the ECU cleaned of corrosion and rust
Cleaned and nearly rebuilt the ignition switch (Fixed the no-start issue)
Repaired and checked all of the MAFT wiring (Brought back the power and killed the check engine light)


My logger still will not read with either one of my Palm cables and the interior is still in pieces from the wiring debugging... So there is still some work to do.

[black92_tsi_awd]

Good news!

Electrical is the most frustrating of all to try to fix.

[awd4kicks]

DAMN IT! The Check Engine light came back on...

But at least this thing is still running good. Good like the kind makes you grab on to the OH SHIT handle... er the steering wheel tighter and tighter as the nose points further in the air as the acceleration continues to build and build. Nice...very nice.

[mitsu90]

ok now your just bragging

[awd4kicks]

Haha..I don't mean to. Once you get a broke DSM running right again, it always seems to surprise you all over again.