Anyone running a manual idle?, mine's crap Options

[ncgalant]

Well since pretty much the day I bought my galant the idle has been all over the place. For the first year 85% of the time it would sit at 900 like a good little car. Then sometimes she would decide that 1800 would be better. Well anyone that has watched( least my car ) a DSM try and idle at 1800 would see that at 1600 the ECU drops out fuel and you have a wonderful up and down surge.

Durring my turbo install I pulled the coolant lines off of the throttle body and used them to cool my turbo so that is sitting open right now and my idle controler is simply unpluged.

My plan in the near future is to pull off my throttle body, replace my shaft seals, and block off the idle controler and faiv completely. After doing this I am hoping to be able to maintain a fairly constaint idle by just adjusting the biss screw(I don't have AC either). Is anyone else runnin their car like this and if so how is it running? Thanks all.

Also if you guys don't mind I was going to do a little writeup much like this on each of my projects from now on. Hopefully someone will read it and tell me an easier way to do something.

[natedogg]

I have the coolant lines off of my TB, but I still have my ISC hooked up. She surges in the winter when its cold out, but when its about 50 or warmer out she idles pretty steady. Crebotech aka awd4kicks is the ISC expert around here.

[awd4kicks]

I do know ISC's, but I have never tried to run without one. Every throttle body / injected car that I know of has a form of electronic idle control. This has to be standard for a reason.

On old carburated engines gas was syphoned into the engine by the amount of air rushing by the venturies via vacuum in the engine. As long as the carburator was adjusted right there was always the right amount of fuel for the air passing through. With an electronic fuel injection system the ECU set's the level of injected fuel by the MAF's air volume readings. However there is nothing else to make up for differences between the MAF and the engine except for the ISC. I would presume that the ISC is most effective as the engine comes down to idle after the throttle has been blipped or when coming to a stop and engine vacuum varies as it climbs to normal idle level.

You can give it a shot without the ISC but I'm unsure how succesful this will be. If you need a working ISC, bring your car by the shop and I may be able to help you out for MUCH less than the dealer.

[wortdog]

To force an idle without an IAC, you'll need to be able to adjust your ignition timing table to have two peaks of about 15 degrees on either side of the idle timing position at the RPM you want to run. This is usually enough to set an idle with the screw, but you could also play with the fuel tables around idle as well.

It will probably be fairly hard to get it to idle with any stability if you can't modify the tables.

[ncgalant]

Thanks for the ideas guys. Hopefully I'll get to it this weekend. I have so many projects to complete in these next few months. I'll let you guys know how it goes.

[ncgalant]

Well, I'm pretty sure I was successfull. I now am seeing 19-21hz at idle and am idling at 850 +- 50. I'm so happy!!

I poped off my throttle body tonight, pulled off the IAC, cut appart a pop can. Used some gasket maker and blocked off the whole thing

So far she's running great(except for my lack of O2 sensor heater)



As for my other venture of the night, I'm pretty sure I made the throttle shaft seals worse. I'll find out in a few days when I get arount to a boost leak test.

[ncgalant]

I hate to throw this onto this thread, but don't see starting a new one for it. I changed my plugs last night because of a missfire on cyl 1. All 4 plugs were REALLY white. I'm reading that this usually means a lean condition, anyone here with experience?