Project Spyrocket Options

[Patterson353]

As some of you know i bought the spyrocket off my brother (Iron Goat) a while back. I put a big 16g, 660 injectors, 255 high press fuel pump on it. It already had a fidanza flywheel, Act 2600# clutch put on by my brother. Nate has tuned it a few times and he had it screaming. Well i'm still seeing knock so i'm going to change a few things. First the lifters and then move my maf to see if i cant get the trims to be more consistent.

[awd4kicks]

I'll give you some insight from my perspective on this. Please understand that I'll be going strictly from memory and addressing these items from a standard theory point of view. I won't mince words over little difference of HP here or there.

Start with a built rotating assembly, particularly good connecting rods and pistons. If I remember right the stock rods are only good to 400 or 500 crank HP. At 660 WHP you will need to be turning at least 795 HP at the crank based on 17% parasitic drag. (that number is conservative because it's not logical for the parasitic drag of the driveline to go up with the HP, but you get the idea.)

The other main components needed for that level of HP will be the turbo and an aftermarket engine management system as mentioned. Keep in mind that I would guess a GT35R turbo is probably churning for all it's worth to reach 660WHP, so you may need something bigger to do it comfortably.

As far as engine management is concerned, I would bet that a seasoned veteran could tune a good set-up to 660WHP with a DSMlink. To be honest I don't know if DSMlink has any limitations on air flow readings or anything else that would keep you below your target. At the level your talking an EMS will do everything you ever wanted and about a dozen other things. In either case the most important thing to remember here is that the difference between a blown engine, a moderately fast car and a legitimate 600-700WHP car... is a good tune done by a reputable and experienced tuner. Pay the money up front and save yourself a bunch of headaches.

For the supporting system I would check the calculations for fuel consumption required at that HP level. Run somewhere in the neighborhood of #8 or larger fuel line from the tank to the fuel rail. A rear sump with an in line pump and filter is what I would recommend. Size injectors appropriately, but you may have to go to 1600's which have been a pain to tune for street driving/idling in the past. There is probably a better alternative these days to get the HP and idle smoothly, so do some research on the injectors.

Other good supporting mods would be the biggest cams you can get for your combo, cam gears for optimum tuning of your selected cams, racing exhaust, a sheet metal intake, and an upgraded cooling system to keep your investment safe. With the right turbo, I don't think a fancy head, exhaust headers, fuel rails or such are required, but some of them could help spool time, and eeking out that last bit of HP.

Then consider upgrading the driveline. Somewhere between 400 and 500WHP street tires become useless for launching and produce much frustration for the driver trying to do so. Sticky tires will absolutely require a good clutch and at nearly 800HP you better get a racing clutch. With that combo you should probably also look into investing in driveshaft shop axles to cut down on the carnage.

That right there is a VERY expensive list of toys my friend. I'm not trying to dissuade you, but those are honestly the things I would consider if I were aiming for that WHP level.

To put it into perspective Dan's EVO and my Talon run (or used to) somewhere in the neighborhood of 500WHP on average. My Buscher short block has aftermarket rods which they claim are only good for 600 crank HP. My tires are useless to launch with even that much HP and I'm afraid to dump the clutch with slicks for obvious reasons.

Heres another thing to consider. My transmission is fully upgraded with beefier EVOIII gear sets and double synchros. This gear set is the strongest Mitsubishi gearing available for our transmissions. With that in mind, I'm told by John at TRE that if one of my EVOIII gears is good for say 550ft/lb.s of torque...that it is only good for that level of power for about 20 minutes! So if you are just quarter mile drag racing, the gears may last a while. However, if you drive this monster on the street, flogging it mile after mile, it may not last as long as you would think. The DSM stock gear set is obviously weaker, hence it has a much shorter life span at high torque loads.

Then don't forget about safety equipment if you want to go to the track. A 660WHP gutted DSM will lay down some ET's and MPHs that are sure to get the attention of track officials. They will require the appropriate roll cage, and depending on the mph you may have to look into getting a chute.

I would love to see the Rocket built like this to see what she would do. If it were me, I would probably shoot for a wHP level that allows me to retain a much better street attitude though. To me the versatility is more fun than a dedicated drag car. I can't tell you how sorry I felt watching all those drivers like Darryl, have to sit in their sweltering cars, wearing their racing suits, helmets and head restraints waiting for the line to move as track temps were well over 100 degrees! So be careful what you ask for, I know a few guys that wish they didn't go the way of the extreme drag race set-up.

In any event let us know what you decide and keep us in the loop on what components you get for it.