Crappy name...but the best I can think of.

I want to see if I can run at least a 12.7 on the 14B and stock sidemount.

Soooo, here's the plan:

Ported 2G manifold (have)
Ported 02 housing (have, need to port)
Ported turbo housing (need to port existing)

MAF and Translator in a blow through setup (need, allow some tuning)
510 or 550 injectors (need, get the inj. pulse down below 100%)

So what do you guys think, mid 12's possible?

very possible awd4kicks ran 12.67@106 on a 14b.

True. I'm sure you can get there, but I don't know if the parts you listed will do the job. I'm not doubting, I honestly don't know. Good luck to you though.

Maybe some cams, springs, and retainers might give you that extra power boost to help accomplish your goal. Talk to kicks, he'd be able to tell you better.

I belive spyguy still has the head kicks used to get him in the 12.6 range.

What I have listed is pretty much what I think I can afford for next year...I still need to replace the syncro before the next trip to the track.

But....I willing to consider a better head later if it come available and it's the right price

This setup should be at least capable of a 12.9, I hope!

If Kicks want to pass on some 14B wisdom....I more than willing to listen

Darn you black92tsiawd! I like to think our cars are similar in modification (save for your lower intercooler pipe, 144 intake, and rewired 190lph pump and my disadvantaged lighter flywheel). I start buying parts to make mine as fast as yours and you have to go buying parts for yours. What the crap!? I'm just going to have to spend a crap load of money before spring to beat you!

I'm sure kicks will pipe in here... but it would be helpfull for those of us too lazy to look in your garage to see your mods if you'd post them here...


here's another tip.... start getting as much track time under your belt as possible... go fast parts don't make a go fast car... takes a good driver to pull good 60 foot times and drive hard all the way through.

here's another tip.... start getting as much track time under your belt as possible... go fast parts don't make a go fast car... takes a good driver to pull good 60 foot times and drive hard all the way through.


so true

Here's the mods for tose who are lazy....
Hacked Can and K&N Filter
MBC set to 16psi
VDO Boost Gauge
Buschur Cat back exhaust
Pocket Logger
Summit Catch Can
Buschur Upper Intercooler Pipe
Fabricated Lower Intercooler Pipe
Rewired pump
Fabricated Headlight Air Duct
Buschur Downpipe
Buschur Test Pipe
ACT 2600 Clutch
Kris144 Intake
Walbro 190 Fuel Pump

I'm pulling pretty decent 1.7s, 1.8s 60' times. Believe me, I don't have a problem driving it hard all the way through. I agree track time definiltely helps, I learned alot this year. Made about 40 runs this year, wouldn't mind running 40 more.

The LICP is a cheap mod, about $20, the rewire is about the same. You ever want some help doing those, just PM me.

I like some good healthy competition!!

To be honest, the mods your talking about can put you in the range your looking for. It really depends how hard you want to run the car. Or should I say how lean/ragged edge you want to run the engine. Besides the mods you currently have, I may have had my 3" DP, but I definitely was using my extremely ported 2G maifold, turbo housing and O2 housing when I ran the 12.6's. Keep in mind I was running 112 leaded gas straight and 24psi seeing about 4 counts of knock in forth gear. (Any knock with race gas points to an extremely dangerous situation as far as engine longevity is concerned.)

By the time I had gotten my MAFT, 2.5" piped side mount and ported compressor housing on, my engine failed to follow up with a better ET or even live past that particular drag night.

Stick with the basics and tune it till your tired of tuning. I was never satisfied with my current tune. Every day brought a different barrometric pressure, temperature etc. and each time I would modify anything in the least I would consult Natedogg to help me optimise my lean tuning with his datalogger.

If your into it, weight reduction would have made a huge difference for me, but I never went that way. With that in mind I think the old spyrocket would make an excellent run at the local 14b record with it's very lightened race set-up, FMIC and such. In any case this type of tuning and expected ET's are VERY hard on the engine when using a 14B.

Good luck guy!

Kicks
What were you using to tune with? I was going to use the Maft translator to tune with.

I thought about some (more) weight reduction...about the only think I consider doing is removing the rear seats on track day since this is my daily driver. I do remove the spare, jack, tools etc now.

not sure if the rear seat's would make the big of a diffrance being out. they don't have that much weight too them.

here's a like to a guy that went 10.8 on a 14b

Yeah, but that car is a shell. No bumper, interior, wiring etc. Not for me.

I'll have to look at his engines mods again though, might be something of use there.

Since I was running stock 450 injectors with a 190lph pump and no fuel control the only way I could tune was by turning the boost up or down. With race gas I was able to turn the boost way-up past the 14b's efficiency range. Normally I ran about 18psi on the street with 93 octane and hit a best of 13.0 on the track with that set-up. So you are right there.

As far as I'm concerned changing parts when you find you are short in a particular area is still tuning. I didn't add a pile of parts and then tune it to run well. I began logging and started upgrading where I felt the car needed attention. Things like going to a test pipe from a gutted cat. or a full 3" down pipe from the stocker, A totally open air can, UPIC pipes, larger compressor outlet elbow, non turbo fuel pressure regulator before I had the money for real fuel control, a lighter flywheel to make better use of the power I was already putting down, upgraded suspension components that helped on launching as well as handling, and of corse water injection.

A lot of time was spent on mine and Natedoggs part trying to utilize our home-brewed water injection kit to run higher boost on pump gas. That only succesfully worked on occasion and seemed to need different tuning each day with weather changes. I did not use the water injection to run the 12.6's...race gas did the job by it's self.

Also to clear things up...I was running a stock cylinder head when I ran the 12.6's... A $300 junk yard motor force fed blazing hot intake charges mixed with 112 octane fuel.

Oh believe me, I've got some tricks in my bag of goodies! This winter, I'll be going to the 3inch GM MAF setup with 2.5 upper and lower intercooler pipes. A Supra Sidemount intercooler is also sitting on my bench and soon I'll have some fuel to back all of it up. The stock 14b will be in place until I get some Eibach springs to go with the KYBs and a grind-free transmission. After that Precision Turbo and Engine is going to employ a much bigger hair dryer, but that will probably have to wait till next year. Everything short of the bigger snail is on the agenda for this year though.

BTW, I'll take you up on the help with the rewire and pump install if you don't mind. After all the PITA horror stories, I'm not too sure I want to do this myself.

turbohcar
Sounds like we'll have some good competition!

PM me when your ready for the pump mods...should be able to help you out. You run the cable from the battery to the hatch and I can help you out with the rest of the wiring.

The pump swap won't be too bad unless yours is rusted worse than mine, soaking the fittings for day before the install with PB blaster helps. I have an extra sending unit/tank I bought from AWD DSM1 has a backup when I swapped mine, just in case it goes real bad. I learned alot getting two rusty sending units out!!!

awd4kicks
Thanks for the insight...I've been doing about the same. Tuning by boost, race gas and different stock type pressure regulators.

Sorry I don't pay attention to all your threads spy. Plus it would have run faster with the ported head on it anyway.