LOL!!!! All that just to try and prove me wrong and you still didn't. I don't care what your hours of internet "research" try to show. I know Jeff at Import Builders/Import Review and if you acutally look at the dynos on that site, there wasn't one over 180 that didn't have something other than intake, header, and exhaust done. Most with intake, header, and exhaust made 165-175. Fact is, 184 is a good number for a H22 with just intake, header, and exhaust. And I'm not going to waste my time going around the internet looking for stuff to back up my statements.

Since you asked... The H22 we just did made 185 whp and 155 ft-lbs with a OEM ITR intake, Greddy header, Invidia exhaust, and R&D Auto tuned V-AFC The 155 ft-lbs is also a lot more than most make with those mods or at 185 whp. More info... http://www.rndauto.com/tom.htm

Where did this become a Honduh vs DSM / Money vs Performance thread? You guys seem hell bent on proving me wrong when all I was trying to do was say good job to the kid that had the car. Let it go.

At the track just make it so the muffler or whatever section you want slips on and off. Make it a nice slip fit joint with a SS exhaust clamp. Thats what I did. Undo the clamp, slip off the exhaust, slip on the dump tube, put on clamp, done. Saves weight too

Ryan makes me laugh.

Just razzin ya Ryan.... I should be at BOTI with my car.

Yeah. Lisa too. In my opinion it sucks, but I'm a Honduh guy. Mainly its the Honduh drivers that are switching. Honduh won't back anyone, unlike GM who throws out millions to its teams. Privateers like Darryl, Joe Demaree, and Mark Brauning that are in the top 10 (or even class champion like Mark) are great for the sport. Its getting to the point where you have to have a huge sponsor with a lot of money to run at the top. Thats the evolution of racing I guess.

Gardella is switching to GM this year..... BOOOO!!! hehe. Good luck Darryl and to Midwest and DPR sponsored driver Joe Demaree.

Why not just buy an electronic butterfly valve and have it dump before it hits the cat? I'm sure you could make or find one cheap. Cruise around with good power but a quieter exhaust. Then when some tool in a Saturn, or even a decently quick car, pulls up next to you and thinks he's fast, hit it the valve, and let her rip.

Chris... aren't you using a different ECU than what was in it before?

Sounds like the ISC Chris. Did you re-use your old one or one Kris had?

EDIT: DAMMIT GARNER! How many times do I have to tell you change that #*@$ing kanuder valve! LOL!!!!! (inside joke)

Is this the cranking over problem you had? Does the starter crank over fine, but the car just doesn't fire, or is the battery cable acting all wierd again? I say re-do those battery relocation connections (ditch the wing nuts) and see if it starts better if thats your problem. If its cranking over fine, but just doesn't fire when its cold its probably your IAC. Thats also probably why it idles like crap when its cold (surges up and down). Didn't you and Kris remove that or bypass it? When the IAC is working correctly it gives more air and fuel to the engine when its cold, which makes sense to why your car will start when you give it gas.

Or it could be the fact that I told her you were selling her this summer and she's PISSED!

Its cool. I wasn't trying to be cocky about my H22 knowledge. Its just that I know that motor inside and out and what it does hp wise stock and with mods. I was mainly saying good job to the kid who owns it and I bet that car is quick (high 13's) for just a swap and stock engine.


On topic... we should edit the first post to have a listing of the dyno results and the car/engine they had.

Man, you guys sure like to be negative. Go read up on what a stock H22 normally pulls on the dyno and then talk. I think I know a little more about them than you. 185 at the wheels for a stock motor with a intake and exhaust is a good number. Plus I was being nice and giving the guy props for dynoing and having that motor in a del sol.

H22 Flywheel Ratings:
USDM H22 (10:1)
190 HP @ 6800 rpm
158 TQ @ 5500 rpm
JDM H22 (10.6:1)
197 HP @ 6800 rpm
161 TQ @ 5500 rpm

That would mean he is making around 15 hp more than the JDM motor.


Oh well... I'm sure Rizzo won't let me down at the track

Its all about the POWA though. I guess they can compare time slips later this year.

Sweet numbers on the H22/Del Sol

We finished up that H22/Civic Friday and put down 185 whp and 155 tq
http://www.rndauto.com/tom.htm
13's on street tires in that car will be easy.

Too bad Rizzo didn't go. For how much smack he talks about Honduhs, Ryan might have felt dumb seeing a Civic making more power than he did.

I want to know too!

I heard a H22 swapped Del Sol was going there.

R&T's in Peoria is looking to upgrade to an AWD dyno soon.

There is also the DPR East facility in Toledo, OH. Its a nice setup.

Darryll - Belleville? LOL. I went to grade school there. 3-5th grade at Roosevelt and Henry Raab. That was way back around 1992.

VCE? HA! Just pull the axle to the back and put a plug in it. Analube is use to plugging its rear.

Is this for your car? Buy aftermarket you cheap pooper Hit me up and I'm sure I can get you a good deal.

Pistons:
JE
Wiseco
Arias
CP
Atomic
SRP
Probe

Rods:
Eagle
Crower
Pauter
Probe

Not sure. I'm sure someone makes them,but I know Clay and Brauning made their own. I think thats what most people do. Chromoly all the way. I have a source for Chromoly and a place that can TIG it, so I'm making my cage and traction bars.

Thanks for the kind words Travis. We are advertising on several nationwide and local (midwest area) forums besides DSMC and it doesn't hurt to be on DPR's website which averages over 6,000 hits a day. Great response so far and even some jobs lined up. Mostly service stuff... complete B16A NA engine build starting next weekend for one guy in MO, clutch and flywheel for another customer, some head work, suspension work, some engine sales and swaps in the works, etc etc. Lots of people seem to be happy there is a place like us around.

No, there is a horzontal bar in the back that is attached to the cage with 4 angled bars. You can kind of see it here:

http://www.imagineengineering.com/clay2.jpg

http://www.imagineengineering.com/clay3.jpg

Rear traction bar pictures:
Clay - http://www.imagineengineering.com/clay.jpg

Brauning - http://www.dprracing.com/Media/DPR%20Drive...g/brauning8.jpg

Two different styles of mounting the top bars. Its up to you, but as long as they tie into the cage it should be fine. Most do it as Clay does with them higher. There have been people who damaged the unibody by attaching the bars to the unibody instead of the cage.

I'm not sure where you could bolt it to on your car. I'd have to look. Can't remember what the DSM LCA looks like exactly. On the Hondas, there is a bolt that you take out, put this [ shaped bracket on the bolt, then put the bolt back in. Then the traction bar arm bolts to the [ shaped bracket. You could weld the [ shaped bracket on I would imagine. Here is a great picture:

You are correct, the rear bars can not be pre-loaded and you must be able to spin the rear wheel(s) before going down the track (stagging). At least thats the NDRA and NHRA rules. Brauning got some heat from this last year because they would do the burnout and then set the bar. Everyone thought they were pre-loading it. It would look fine in the pits, but remember when the tires expand after the burnout, it will bring the front end up and rear bar wheel down.

The front traction bar ties the lower control arm to a solid piece. Basically you have this big chromoly bar that goes across the front of your car. Then you have 2 arms that angle towards the lower control arms and bolt to it. The arms have ajustable eyes on each end so you can load the bars. When launching they keep the lower control arms from moving and help reduce wheel hop and wheel spin. The angle and location of the bars is important because they must not bind up when turning or when the suspension goes up and down. Full-Race makes the best that other car that we shall not name ones. Check out their website here for info and pictures http://www.full-race.com/civic-traction-bars.html

I ran a 1.99 60ft on street tires when I ran the 12. I had 425/375 springs, rear shocks, and a front traction bar. But its a different ball game when it comes to slicks and a drag car.

Slicks + Street car = front traction bar, coilovers w/ 300-500 lb front springs and 900+ lb rear springs, and adjustable front and rear shocks. The stiff rear springs will keep the back from dropping which in turn keeps the front from raising and the tires from spinning. Adjusting the rear shocks to stiff also help keep it from dropping. When shifting, you don't want the weight transfer to be too violent so a stiffer spring on the front and some adjustability with the shocks would be good. You can get custom coilovers from Ground Control for a good price.

Slicks + Drag car = front traction bar, rear traction (aka wheelie) bar, stock shocks ( or adjustable if you want, but not absolutely needed), and cheap pooper coilovers (or a custom set if you want) w/ 300-500 lb front springs and 100-300 lb rear springs. With the soft rear springs it allows the car to sit on the rear bar right away. Thats what you want. When it drags on the rear bars it keeps the front from coming up and spinning the tires and also increases your wheelbase so you have better control of the car. Stock shocks or adjustable shocks set on low allow the rear to sit down quick also. I know Clay Sloan runs stock shocks on cheap coilovers and pulls 1.4's and Mark Brauning (NDRA All-Motor Champion) runs some sort of shock on cheap coilovers and pulls 1.3-1.4's. I've also seen several pro's on Honduh-Tech post that they run a very soft spring in the rear when running a rear bar.

Thats just some tech info from Honduh racers. Not sure if it will apply to the DSM's but I would imagine a FWD is a FWD no matter what. I could see the AWD guys sepending a lot more to get things to work good.

No matter what, less weight = lower ets. Simple power to weight ratio. What shocks most people (and what most don't know) is that on a full all out drag FWD that other car that we shall not name, you can spend $70 on the entire shock and coilover setup and pull 1.3-1.4 60fts. With the right traction bar in the front and rear of course.