Hey Rob you want a stripped down 92 Laser roller? Still has most of the interior, suspension, brakes, & some various engine bay crap. Its on all 4 wheels right now but if possible i would like to keep them. Haul it with the wheels and when you get a chance drop em off. Scrap it, strip it, burn it! Don't care just need it gone ASAP. PM me if your interested. Thanks

Located on Lake st in Peoria Heights.

Or take the thing with the wheels for 40$ They are almost brand new 15" tires on steelies. was going to sell them for 40$ to a guy but would rather get the whole thing out of here at once. The car is not really rebuildable, its torn to hell and rusted up pretty bad. I have the title. LMK

Ttops, mmmmm tasty! Fbodys are a f***ing blast to drive, have fun man! Also if your driving your car towards the end of the year, and you see a snow flake, have some good walking shoes on hand

The rear main retainers are notorious for cracking. Forceful contact or a few extra lbs or torque on the little bolts and those suckers will crack and cause a mess. Remove the flywheel cover and stick your hand or something behind the flywheel and between the block. You should be able to tell without even pulling the tranny. Makes quite a mess. Also you may want to run a dye test on the oil and see if you can spot the exact cause before it covers to wide of an area.

True, you must cover the oil hole with the bearing if the balance shaft itself is not creating resistance in the pumping system. But even so it shouldn’t create an unmanageable amount of pressure. I have ran 3 engines with this procedure done, and even with a brand new oil pump it wont cause enough pressure to cause what your describing.



Sounds like this may be your problem by everything your describing. I highly doubt you have blown out numerous oil pan gaskets with engine crankcase pressure. The rear main consists of the rear main seal housing, the rear main seal, the rear main seal gasket, & the rear main seal retainer. May want to take a closer look around that area before you go JB welding the oil pan on there

Throw out those Iridium plugs and get your self a set of NGK BRP7's or 6's (stock or one range colder) Boosted engines in my personal experience have nothing but trouble with Iridium and Platinum plugs.

Nice setup by the way

A pair of vise grips to the bursting point has always worked better than a set flare wrenches for me. Just set them about an inch apart and use the palms of your hands to force them together till they break the connection loose. Once I had the 2 flare wrenches a few inches apart with a small socket (I believe) or something similar Mig welded to the tops of each so I could slide a scissor jack between them and force the connection to break. No longer have the wrenches but where there’s a will there’s a way.

One other thing, are the balance shafts removed? And if so when the bearings were installed in the block were they rotated to cover the oil holes? This can raise the oil pressure a decent amount.

Last engine I rebuilt had a pretty good amount of blow by in it after putting everything back together. Had a .020 overbore and the ring gap clearances were right on the money. So I couldn’t figure out what the deal was until I ran it. I broke it in with the “run it hard at a low psi” approach and changed the oil after 30 miles. Checked after about 100 miles and it was perfect. Although it was never enough to blow the dipstick out or anything it made a very big difference. Not sure how severe your case is but good luck getting her running on the move. Just as long as the cylinder walls had a proper honing with a good cross hatch angle you should be good after a normal break in.

Also the oil did have a gas smell to it after the 30 mile change but the following change had no scent of combustion chamber goodness.

Ticking, or knocking? When you push on the clutch or brake pedals do you feel any vibrations that are consistent with the noises you are hearing? Put your hand on or ears near the valve cover and see if it feels like your lifters are the source of the trouble. I have horror stories with oil additives and “thickeners” to quiet knocking and ticking. Your ISC may be causing your stalling, but any knocking noise would probably be attributed to other “evil” sources.

If your welding on cast iron you can try to create a controlled environment in which you could use a well placed thermite charge to weld the crack. Or if your felling lucky JB Weld that sucker

Well just got back this afternoon. Car runs great although it lacks the power I would have liked. But that was expected when the car was bought. 3k miles in 6 days and a “moderately” roomy interior, back seat is a lot bigger than the Sentra. Saw around 26 mpg hwy while driving about 90 to 100 mph from Peoria to Austin TX with the air on the whole way. And around 33-35 mpg the way back with the air off and around 80 to 90 mph ( Car is Auto) . From Dallas to Wisconsin Dells in just under 13 hours . Was a lot of fun though, although I believe I blew more money in the Dells than I did the entire trip combined .

Are you in Peoria Area? If so PM me your phone # and i can probably have some one come pick it up for you in the next day or two. Steel pays alright right now so you shouldnt have to much trouble getting someone to junk it out either way. My last part out i had a pickup truck full of rednecks (looked like they were out of a bad movie! ) pull the shell down my alley.

Thanks for all the help! I ended up going with D - New 2006 Lancer ES . Took it and the sentra for a ride and the sentra (even though the color, and darker interior I wanted) just didn’t seem as good of a car. So I guess long term the lancer was what I was looking for. I had heard a few negative things on the sentra as well. So New Lancer it is. Sticker was 17,6XX got it for 13,5XX plus tax, etc etc. Nice DD. I'm Headed down to Wichita in a few hours for the week so thanks again for the input, and swaying me away from the Sentra!

I’ve looked around at a lot of Civics and will be checking out one Monday morning but I have one of those “Capitol One Blank Checks” maximum value is 14.5K and the car must be at or under 30K miles and 2000 or newer from a franchised dealership. So trying to find a civic that meets that criteria has proven to be a real PITA! If they would let me do a private party purchase then that would be my first choice. Only thing holding me back on the Sentra is the depreciation of a new car. Especially a Nissan Sentra! The lancer has a bit of that removed but I’ve never really cared for either much.


*EDIT * I know there is no 06 Grand Am i let that slip by me

Anybody have any experience with either the Mitsubishi Lancer ES (2004-2006) or the Nissan Sentra 1.8 S (2003-2006) I am looking to buy a car on Monday and have narrowed it down to the two. I can get the Sentra for 13,990 brand new off the lot or the Lancer 2004 for 10K with 30K miles. Both are autos. I drove the Sentra and it seemed OK but the ride wasn’t that great. Haven’t drove the Lancer in about a year but I drove stick when I took it for a test drive before. I have the wife and 2 kids and just looking for a cheap get around car with 4 doors and great gas mileage. Any opinions, will be buying first thing Monday so I can make a cross country trip and I can’t make up my mind. Any other cars I should be considering, under 13K if possible. Insurance is cheaper on American cars but I can’t find anything that gets good MPG and doesn’t look like a piece of ass (Aveo)!

I got mine from Advanced on University (in stock) for a few bucks!

Hmmmm he is going to need a running mate........... Image???

Welcome! If your looking for speed don’t throw any more money at that thing, put it back to stock level, sell your exhaust & intake, make a few bucks. Then dump the car for a few Franklins and use it for a turbo car. If your looking for reliability watch out! Your in for a ride. But either way, paying for someone to fix internal engine, and trans problems your going to be better off just buying a decent 1G. How long have you been in debt ………….. I mean owned your DSM now?

hmmmm

As soon as I saw it go up I tried to get one of the first orders in but I can only imagine how many people or forums for that matter the post made it to. If I had found it myself I would have placed a few orders of 8 and kept it to myself! Better chance of someone missing it that way.

Yep same here, was worth a try though.

And last time i bought the kit i ended up with a spare top line t belt indeed Not putting that thing on my cars!

I found the rebuild kit from machv but it says it does not come with a timing kit just the belt.

http://www.importperformanceparts.net/impo...its-mitsu2.html

Same kit Machv sells but only 419.00 with the oil pump and everything

To late now but if anyone is buying a top line oil pump try http://www.flatlanderracing.com/ in the import section, i have ordered a few rebuild kits at a good price from them.
6 Bolt Top Line oil pump = 138.00
Re-Ring kits from 189.00
Major Rebuild kits from - EDIT - 349.00

I bet someone on the discounttiredirect webstite payroll got an earfull for that little screwup