So here is the story that goes with the problem.

I went out to tune earlier and seen a 91 awd out of the coener of my eye. I thought to myself, I have to go by and make sure that is what it was. So I did that, and yes it was a 91 AWD red with the stupid wing on it like the fast and the furious. So I stopped and talked to them.

After I left there, I went down the blacktop that is close to me. I did a 3rd gear pull and it felt strong and pulled hard. I looked at the log I took from that run and no knock all the way through the power band. So I turn around and try it again. This time my pc had shut down on me so no log. But when I get to the stop sign it is idling way low, so I tap the gas to give it a rev and see if I can bring it back up. Didn't work out like I was wanting it to.

I then pull away from the stop sign and go through first then second. I hit third and laid it to the floor! It took off and did what it was supposed to for me. Then I push the clutch in to coast to a stop and the motor dies. WHY? I don't know! So I coast all the way to my turn and let out the clutch in fourth gear and it catches and starts. No big deal right, WRONG!

I got to the next stop and it dies again. When I got to my drive way it did it again. WHY? I know I got a boost leak at the PCV. But it shouldn't cause this thing to die like it is. I am confused about what is going on. I checked all the settings in DSM Link and they are the same as they have been.

Does anyone have any ideas?

If you don't remember what I am running.
3" gm mafs and translator
front mount w/ hard piping
Hallman MBC set at 19psi
50 trim turbo
44mm wastegate w/ open dump
turbo xs rfl BOV open dump
850cc FIC injectors

The last pull I did it had 2.5 counts of knock at 3200 rpm and went away at 4700 rpm. And my A/F ratio doesn't get any lower than 10.00.

I had a throwout bearing sieze on me once and that caused a similar issue. Also could be ECU related I'm sure. Anything and everything that goes wrong with these cars can usually be traced back to something in the trans or the ECU it seems.

Did you lube the input shaft with grease and pack the throw out bearing with grease as well when you put the trans back in?

Yeah I did all that about 4 months ago. If that is the case why is it just now starting this.
The car will idle when in the driveway in nuetral.

Do another boost leak check and try to fix the PCV problem, something's not right. It took Nick's car quite awhile before the car started having the problems.

Well Brett I think you were on the right track. I checked everything this morning and got it all put back together. Took it for a ride and everything was fine until I took it out to do some third gear pulls. I got to do one pull and let off to coast and what do you know it did it again. I stopped and checked out my log on link. Once I did that I turned it around and headed for home.
I went ahead and tried another third gear pull to see if the setting I put in cleaned up the log. Got to the stop sign and it died again. This time it was even hard to start. So I started it and got it running with my foot on the gas to keep it running. I went to let out on the clutch and it made a noise like I wasn't in gear all the way (grinding). So I made sure it was in gear, and sure enough it was. So I started to let out on it again and the same noise. I went ahead and drove home from there.
Now while in my driveway if I even tried to put it in gear it would make that same noise no matter what gear I tried.
Now I get to tear the damn thing apart again and do it all over again. I am very unhappy with this car right now.

The good news is I got my car to pull hard now all the way through the power band. And there is no knock what so ever. Hurray for me!

What the hell are the odds of this! I have been having the same problems today and sure as shit it is the throwout bearing and throwout bearing fork ( or whatever its called )

I had noticed the last couple of weeks that something wasn't right. My idle would vary everytime I put the clutch in. Some times it wouldn't idle over 500 rpm.
At least it is a quick fix and not something major, like the ECU.

Budmann, put a washer behind the pivot ball on the trans when you put it back in there if you haven't yet. That really helped with my disengagement point on my car. If anybody wants it, I know there is a Talon in Bill Smith Auto Parts' lot in Bloomington that has the pedal assembly welded up!

Here, this website isn't up anymore but I went to the Wayback Machine and pulled it up.

Website is www.taboospeedshop.com

The perfect clutch setup
http://web.archive.org/web/20041021213358/...op.com/DPCS.htm

ACT2600 explained
http://web.archive.org/web/20040205105515/...hop.com/ACT.htm

Removal and welding of the clutch pedal assembly
http://web.archive.org/web/20040205142011/...al_assembly.htm

Very interesting read, Thanks man on all the help.

I guess, now that I think about it, there's a possibility you've got too much slack in the clutch linkage. Welding the assembly should take care of that for you as the stock bushings are just plastic and wear out pretty quickly with an aftermarket clutch.

Either way, somehow your clutch isn't getting disengaged all the way.

Do these technics go for a 2G also. Is the clutch pedal in a 2G weak just like the 1G?
I plan on shimming the clutch fork when I have it out.

After I read all that, I figured out that was the problem with my 1G that I had and traded for my 2G.

harhar, I hope your cars aren't down for months like mine was when my TOB went out. Durr for laziness.

Well pulled the tranny today. It only took me a couple of hours with chasing my kids and all.

Before I pulled it out I did get down and check the clutch to see if it was tight or hard to push by hand. Ha----- The damn thing wasn't or isn't disengaging. So does this mean the pressure plate is bad? I look down at the pressure plate from the top and all the fingers are setting flat no arching out. The throwout bearing lost all the grease but still turned freely and slide like butter up and down the shaft. No sexual puns please.

They are supposed to sit mostly flat when it's tightened down. The clutch fork shouldn't be able to disengage the clutch if you're moving it by hand. That's why they use hydraulic clutch systems because the hydraulic system is able t create much much more force than your foot or arm actually could.

Something else is wrong that we're overlooking. At least the TOB is good. Throw a washer behind the pivot ball and put everything back together. Then adjust the clutch with a friend using the guide I linked to above. Mine was setup exactly like that and was perfect for drag racing and still good for everyday driving. While adjusting, have the person depress the clutch pedal down and up while you watch the slave cylinder actuate the clutch fork and make sure it's getting adequate throw. The links I posted above will provide reference to what is acceptable and what isn't.

Sumthin's got mee all cornfused!

EDIT: Something else I forgot to mention is if you tightened the nut on the clutch adjustment on the pedal assembly. If that nut is loose enough, the adjustment rod can back off and create symptoms like this. Check to make sure it's adjusted properly.

I was also thinking it might be the clutch master cylinder. Maybe?

WHen I checked the clutch fork I could move it back and forth. There was no pressure on the fork at all. It was like the tranny was out of the car and you where moving the fork for smoothness.

Possibly, but I wouldnt' go throwing parts at it just yet. Put it all back together and do the clutch test. If it doesn't move it very much, the master or slave cylinder may be the culprit.

Read the last reply I had to edit.

I'll make a list for you later of things that will fix it, I promise

Misadjustment of the clutch pedal
Bad Slave Cyl.
Bad Master Cyl.
Low on hydraulic fluid (brake fluid goes in the clutch system)