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> found the problem, need a solution
TSiwrx
post Jan 23 2004, 11:21 PM
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whenever you can get if off pretty much. where are you at by the way? im in morton. what is stock psi and what is the psi you would recommend me to run? i now have a mbc so i can set it pretty much anywhere. id like a little more than stock buy not very much, i need this to last till i can afford a 16g or somthing else. thanks again.


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SCCA Stang
post Jan 24 2004, 01:08 AM
Post #22


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QUOTE
whenever you can get if off pretty much. where are you at by the way? im in morton. what is stock psi and what is the psi you would recommend me to run? i now have a mbc so i can set it pretty much anywhere. id like a little more than stock buy not very much, i need this to last till i can afford a 16g or somthing else. thanks again.


I am in Morton as well, stock boost I believe is 7 lbs, but I would say that 10 lbs is completely safe and 12 or 14 would even be ok, as long as your boost controller doesn't let it spike massively (20 lbs and more)

let me see when I can have it off


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SPOOLED91
post Jan 24 2004, 10:38 AM
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stock on a 1st gen is 11psi.


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SCCA Stang
post Jan 24 2004, 11:19 AM
Post #24


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QUOTE
stock on a 1st gen is 11psi


ok, i guess I was wrong, but i still would say that 14lbs is a good pressure to keep the turbo happy.


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TSiwrx
post Jan 24 2004, 05:07 PM
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ok well whenever you can get it off would be fine. ill probably run 12 or 13 psi. (it has to last me a while)


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natedogg
post Jan 24 2004, 09:44 PM
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QUOTE (SPOOLED91 @ Jan 24 2004, 10:38 AM)
stock on a 1st gen is 11psi.

It varies depending on what the logged knock history is on the car. An 'octane' number is monitored in the ECU that allows for different boost levels depending on the knock the car is seeing over time. This works as long as the car has the stock boost control solenoid (bcs). Gsxracer is actually correct in that the stock actuator spring is set at a measly 7 psi. If one's stock car is knocking bad, like on watered down, winter grade 87 octane Casey's gas the ecu will leave the bcs shut allowing none of the boost signal to be bypassed to the intake pipe so all you get is 7 psi and maybe a little creep from one's coked up O2 housing. The ECU will, of course, also take timing away from one, bringing one down to anywhere from 10 to 2 degrees of timing advance. If one's car is running optimal, like on 100 octane turbo blue, the ECU will recognize this by looking at the 0 count knock values over a period of time and leave the bcs open so the turbo is free to run up to 12 psi of boost. It will also let one's WOT timing run as high as 27-28 degrees advance. There is also a gray area between these two extremes where the ECU will send a calculated duty cycle to the solenoid varying the boost to whatever it deems reasonable between 7 and 12 psi. That's why you see some stock DSM's run 16's and other stock DSM's run 14's in the 1/4 mile.
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natedogg
post Jan 24 2004, 09:48 PM
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QUOTE (spyonu2007 @ Jan 24 2004, 07:52 PM)
I have a bigger duel pump and run my 14b for the last tear and a half at 15-17psi. Get it logged and set the boost then leave it alone until you ptut race gas in her.

Where can I get a duel pump? That sounds cool. My car runs on...duel. Is that like dueling banjos? but instead dueling fuel pumps!? Sweet.

Btw, I've been drinking. Long Island Ice Teas. Sweet nectar of life. Aglaglaglagla. (Homer Simpson voice)
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SPOOLED91
post Jan 25 2004, 07:32 AM
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[QUOTE]Where can I get a duel pump? That sounds cool. My car runs on...duel. Is that like dueling banjos? but instead dueling fuel pumps!? Sweet.

laugh.gif laugh.gif laugh.gif laugh.gif laugh.gif blink.gif


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