cooling

OK now that i got the fmic installed. Thanks to obx finally sending me instructions, I have a couple of questions about cooling. 1 now that I have a front mount on wont that slow the air down that flows across the radiator making it run alittle hoter or atleast make the fan run alot more. 2 So if thats the case what is a good brand of aftermarket radiators that are a direct fit that will do a beter job and not break me in the pocket book ohh try to keep in mind that I just bought a fmic to I am dont have a lot of extra cash. Any ideas will be most helpful.

front mount

ok befor you guys snap on me for buying this dont it was all I could afford. I found an obx front mount with all the piping kit. its made for my 98 eclipse gsx. So it said. I have the front end off and I am scratching my head because the kit doesn't come with instructions on how to put it in. Yes I called Obx racing and they say that it doesn't come with any and that they dont make any install guides for it. The guy said it will hook up to the stock turbo and I will not have to take out my fog lights either for the piping to fit. That is good because I have a big T28 and should hook right up.
well it does hook up to the turbo thats no problem but I am haveing problems figuaring out exzactly where and what way all the pipe go on and how I mount the intercooler itself. it has all the brackets and bolts I should need but as you all know they can be turned different ways. This is my first time tring to put in a front mount. I just want to put it in once and right from the get go. if any of you have had any experience with an obx fmic or some install pic please let me know. Ohh the size is 20x9x2.5and the pipe is 2.3/8if you need more info let me know. here is a couple pics

slotted rotors

I have had a running debate with a friend on slotted rotors on what direction the slot should go. I have seen it on many different cars going forward to what looks like to claw at the pad. I have also seen it swipe at the pad. I have also read it should be put in both ways too. I was wondering what way are they supposed to be.



) this way or like this ( on the rotor


I am not the good at art but you get the hint slanting forward or slanting back. Do tell

downpipe

ok My questions are. I am going to be putting my new Big T 28 on this weekend and my three inch downpipe on my 98 gsx . Now I know that sence the new downpipe takes the place of the cat that I will get a check engine light. S0 I heard of a bypass thing that can be done with a little bit of work to it. First is this really safe. I won't have the computer reading false readings from the other o2. that may make the engine run like crap. Does it just trick the com into thinking that its all A O K for all problems. what are the pros and cons to doing this bypass. Also I don't want a dumb answer like just take out the light for the CEL. I like haveing that litle guy working just right, now that I am starting to bolt on some real HP gainers I want that little safty net no matter how smallit is.
Please if you could explain it to me what it is that the bypass does and why its safe or unsafe I would really like to know, because cutting 16 inches out of the downpipe and having to find someone with a tig welder and who knows how to weld stainless steal is not an option

problem with small T28

ok I will try to explain it so that you guys will under stand what I am tring to say. I have a 98 GSX here is a list of the mods thus far> k&n injen hard pipe to turbo, greddy hard pipe to throtle body,greddy type s bov, mbc turbo xs, up graded pluges and wires, upgraded clutch and fly as well. Ok last weekend me and a friend spent some time putting in a new pacesetter header and a ported t28 and ported o2 housing the porting is only a mild job nothing to radical.also keep in mind that I have the stock exhaust and the stock fuel system too. I keep the boost at 13 to 14 psi thats all I don't want to get denation befor I get the fuel sys upgreaded.
Well as I was saying we put the header and the turbo on and did it right. so I feel, we primed the turbo with oil and spun it once as we pumped the oil in for the start up. the thing was a bit of a head ach to install nothing is lining up with the pacesetter header. With some effort we get it all to line up ok and made sure of no leaks and to my suprize there wern't any no oil no coolent or exhaust I was so glad. Well it was late and I just drove the car home with no boost on. It was after 50 miles of driving that decided to retorque everything when the engine was warmed up a bit. Still no leaks cool, now I decided I would turn up the boost to about 10 psi that should be safe. So I did and the car is really slow no power at all none. so I tried 14. still the car has no power less than I had beforwith the T 25. I thought ok I will try the 10 lbs again and check all my clamps to make sure no leaks still no leaks I could find .
ok now I am getting frusterated I am also getting bad bost spikes after shifts and it seems the more I turn up the boost I am only able to hold about 12 lbs I can hear the turbo spooling and it sounds great a little diff from the t25 I had. Also if I eas in to the throtle to wot in 4th of 5th I can hold way more than 12 psi like 18 and thats not good but in 1 2 3 gears I cant hold more than 12 and it is slow at reving up from 3500 to 6500 rps. hell the 25 was hands down way faster in the car wtf. Am I just over looking somthing did I get it in the car wrong I tried to spinn the turbo and it spun great and it has no wabble why is it that a handa with no mods could beat me so bad in a race right no it aint funny. Is there anyone who might have a idea whats going on with this car of mine ohh ps the turbo was a brand new one not a hand me down . Alos i am not hitting fuel cut i do know what that it i am not pushing enough air by the mass to hit fuel cut . Please help