At the moment I have been heavily considering the 6bolt motor swap, mainly in preperation for the high goals i have set for the car. As far as the engine itself is concerned, i want between 350-400hp. On a Evo III Big 16g turbo and front mount. My motor has no signs of crank walk at all right now, but wouldnt the extra strain on the motor lead to problems earlier? So my questions really are:

1. what all would i need for the swap? (head, block, ecu? etc..etc..)

2. what all could i use off of my current motor which may be better then the 6bolt motor parts or equal (manifold, throttle body elbow, etc..)

3. how much would i be looking to spend for a reasonable buy for all the parts for the swap (6 bolt motor (rebuilt) or lower mileage).

4. would it be worth my time to put rods and pistons in place while i have the motor out.

I'm not askign for you guys to baby sit me through this, just some general ideas would be nice to know.. i dont have a ton of money so if something isnt a requirement it would be nice (but i also dont like to half ass shit on my car), and my 7bolt only has 67000 miles on it.

Ahhh... something I know a little about...


I'm actually in the exact same situation with VERY similar goals. My 95 has 145k on it though. With that low milage and no problems, I'm tempted to say mod the hell out of it till it blows up, then replace it....


but honestly, the 7-bolts scare the piss out of me....

Personally I'm going to go with a stock rod/forged piston 6-bolt setup. Should handle 400-500 hp ok.

You'll want basically everything from a 6-bolt motor... intake, TB, head, block, CAS, Coil pack, etc... You'll keep your motor mounts and assesories w/brackets, plus the exhaust manifold and TB elbow. No need to swap ECUs, might have to swap some sensors around though.

I'm budgeting about $1500 for the rebuild. This includes the pistons, a rebuild kit from Mach V, Mitsu head gasket, machine work, etc... I already have the motor, head and other parts.

Budget upwards of 2000-2500. This way you'll have plenty for a rebuilt 6 bolt and a couple of internal toys. Stick with your 2G pistons. As for the rest of the 2g internals, scrap them or try to sell them. Going with 2g pistons is a step above stock 1G's without going forged. Put the stock 1g rods on the pistons, they will hold the 400 projected horse as well as the stock 6 bolt crank. Eliminate the balance shafts and bolt on the 1g head, it flows a little better than the 2g. Make sure all of these parts have are in working order or if you go with a rebuild, make sure the shop cleans them properly. Specifically, there are some ridges and slots in the pistons that need to be cleaned out to keep the pistons cooled properly. If your shop mechanic is at all intelligent, have him tap some holes in the 1g intake for the 2g sensors. Swap for a 1g throttle body. You will need to keep the 2g cams until you upgrade because of the CAS differences. Keep your 2g exhaust mani, turbo, and 02 housing if you are keeping the stock turbo for awhile. And a performance clutch wouldn't hurt while you've got the tranny away from the motor. This is as far as I know what I would keep from a 2G swap.

Actually, tubohcar, you want to use the 1g cams and a 1g CAS and scrap the 2g crank sensor. I can't think of any sensors that are actually on or in the head that would need to be tapped either... Themostat housing maybe?

Here's the full scoop from the pros...

Magnus motorsports

Theres the extra map sensor on the top of the 2g intake, i know because we have to alott for it on the Venom Mitsu 77 just got. Like I said, I've never done a 2g swap before, that's all stuff that I was told or have seen done before.

All of this worked for us http://www.magnusmotorsports.com/1g2g.asps

Thanks guy's, It will be quite some time before I even think about seriously doing the swap, because of money issues, but it helps to know what all it will take in advance, thanks

If you take it to Chad(FC Customs) I'll have mine readily available for comparison

He did a nice job on my clutch so i have deffinitly considered it, I think i would probably do the mechanical portion of the swap on my own and have someone else do the electrical side. I'm deffinitly on a small budget if i go for this