Hey all,
What suggestions do you guys have for a battery box? Right now Its zip tied down(I know scary). Will any sealed metal box do?

You can get a Taylor's aluminum box, or a blue plastic Moroso box, if you're planning on taking it to the track (has to be NHRA/IHRA approved). You'll also need a cutoff switch. Otherwise, if you're just relocating it to do it, you can get a marine battery box at an auto parts store for pretty cheap.

Well I want to run it on the 30th. So the track is going to expect an expensive approved box then.... Grrreeaaat

And a shutoff switch... For that I would just have to relocat my main breaker to the outside of the trunk? Then rewire the fuel pump to be after the breaker?

Basically, yeah. And the box needs to be bolted to the frame of the car, too. You MIGHT be able to get away with it once or twice w/out a box and cutoff switch, though, depending on how strict the track's techs are.



Not neccessarily. I'd keep the breaker inside the trunk, but have a switch that can be activated from outside of the car. Basically, there are two types of switches that I've seen: the first is a push to shut off type, where you push a rod or switch that cuts the power. The second is the regular open-closed switch where the switch, in one orientation, completes the circuit, but in the other orientation opens it. It's pretty easy to do...just interupt either the positive or negative battery cable w/the switch. The hard part is locating where it should go. With the T/E/L, we've put them in the hatch lock hole, and the center cover (between the tail lights) prevents access to it until you remove it. Or you can put the switch behind your license plate and just remove the plate at the track...like I said, the hard part is finding somewhere convenient to put the damn thing, without having it accessible when you're not at the track.

Here's a good overview of what you can do...
http://www.taboospeedshop.com/battery_relocation.htm

if you just want to run it at the dsm day, you're probably good with what you've got. the folks at cordova weren't exactly sticklers at the last event. My passenger rarely remembered to even buckle his seatbelt and I didn't wear a helmet once. ...although their lack of concern can probably be explained by my crappy timeslips.

Yeah, the techs at Cordova don't look inside your car. They don't even ask you to pop your hood. They ask you what number you like and if you want any race gas, to which you promptly answer, "You can put that damn nozzle in your mouth, pour that penis juice down your throat, and charge yourself seven bucks a gallon for it, cuz you sure as hell ain't putting it in my gas tank!!" Well, that's what I'd say anyway.

In all honesty, I think Kris and I just got a bad batch last time which made our cars run like shit...

For the record I've run the 112 octain they sell at Cordova and ran very well on it.

Somebody forgot to bring their sense of humor to work today.

I just went to Cordova's website. It looks like they have Test & Tune every Friday and on some Saturdays. But what is the other "stuff" that they are doing on Friday nights (i.e. Trophy and Non-gamblers)? How does that work?

I'm still a bit confused. I have to kill all power? That's a lot of wire to run if so. I was just going to do the FP rewire and that way the fuel pump and battery would die = dead car.

Yes, I believe that you need to kill all power. The third diagram on the Taboo web page that I posted shows it better than I can explain it in words. You basically just have to interupt the signal with the switch.

Joe

See the thing I hate about that is I'll have to run my alternator wire to the trunk. That requires me to run another wire

Just tape the ends together and run 'em at the same time, then