Today i got my AVCR and SAFC installed, although i dont have a damn clue how to work either of them yet.. (havent read anythign at all). The boost is set at 15psi at 1.00bar? as far as fuel, everything is set at 0. I dont plan on dicking with anything until i feel comfortable with both of the units, so first, if there are any settings anyone can recommend, or any websites that may be useful, that would be helpful. Also, this is a 2g GSX, stock T-25 turbo, bov, i/c piping, intake, 255 walbo. I'll get some pictures up here in a day or so, the install looks REALLY good, I mounted them in place of the passenger side sun blocker on the ceiling.

15 psi on the t-25. holy cow.

But to get to the point. you can do one of two things. get A datalogger and read electronically how the engine is reacting. or B go by the butt-o-meter.

I was running 17psi without ANY controller if u think 15's high.. There isnt really any performance gain between the two though...

I plan on getting a pocketlogger here pretty soon. I have no clue how to tune with one of them either though.. and until I get it, is there anything i should look into about tuning with just the AVCR and SAFC?

thats cause your pushing the turbo out of its efficency range. ask jmoushon. he had his 14b at 16 and 18 psi on the dyno. He had MORE power at 16 psi.

I know nothing about those fandagled thingers. sorry I couldnt help more

try pm-ing turbo_tsi he has a safc and is pretty proffecient at tuning with it.....

bar is another way of measureing boost... 1 bar = 14.7 psi if I remember correctly. honestly, you probably won't need to change the settings much off the stock baseline until you get bigger injectors and a bigger turbo. You need the AFC here becasue the ECU can't control the bigger injectors properly. Best bet it to get a logger so you can tune it without guessing what the motor is doing and risking blowing it up...

I agree with AWD. About the only thing it's really good for right now is looks. If you wanted to get the minimal gains possible at this point, I would go do a couple dyno runs and see where your AFR is. Or i suppose the logger is an option as well. Those units are not difficult to operate, once you know the system, but knowing what to change and when takes a bit of practice/experience. If your car is anything like a 1G, I would guess you have too much fuel from about 5k to 6.5k. I have a stock 14b and a GSS342 high volume/high pressure Walbro, stock injectors. I run SUPER RICH at the mid/top end. Just my .02, I'm not sure how similar the 1G/2G cars are.

That sounds about right, I figured if i would lean things out a bit i would be able to see some more gains, but right now i cant see it really being worth it to me to mess with anything, at least until i get my turbo upgrade. A little side note, i think my alternator took a shit on me today (or last night?), because i went to start it today and the battery was totally dead, jumped it, started driving to school, car died in the middle of the road.. totally dead, havent had a chance to check it all out, but i was looking on vfaq for the alternator rebuild/removal process and it seems that the link is broken.. Oh well, no way in hell replacing this one can be NEARLY as hard as it was in the MR2!!!

Also, isn't there an alternator fuse?? Maybe thats a possibility?

don't know about the 'altenator fuse', But replacing the altenator is really easy, especially if you got rid of the luxery crap your car doesn't need (power steering and ac lines/pumps, etc.) that run down the driver side of the engine bay. If that stuff is gone it should take under a half hour to pull, plug, and play. If i remember right, there are only three bolts that hold the altenator in. Two on the top work together for tension, and then there's one on the bottom that's easiest to get to from under the car, that one can be a little tricky getting back in.

Yeah. There is an alternator fuse. Its in the main fuse box under the hood. There is also a relay. I would check both of these. When I was hooking something up electrical that had to do with the ECU harness I somehow shorted out the alternator and blew the fuse. I didnt even realize that I had done it until 2 days later when the car died as I was pulling into my driveway (lucky me.) Good luck!

alright, turns out it was the battery.. I went all out on this one and bought an optima. Ever since last night (when i got the controllers installed), i've been idling at a low of pretty much 500 rpms (or so it looks).. is there a reason for this, and how should i fix it, other then the idle adjust screw...

Here's a pretty nice nightvision shot of the whole set up as i promised.

http://www.dsmcentral.com/invision/index.p...rage_mod&id=317