I recently purchased a fidanza flywheel. I noticed on FP that they sell an aftermarket flywheel bolts kit with a claim that the stock bolts are too short and without longer bolts the flywheel will come off.


this is the first i've heard of this????? should I get them? or does with a aftermarket flywheel use the stock bolts without problems?


my second questoin is that i've heard a lot of problems with acdt 2600 tob. I purhcased a brand new act 2600, should aI get a different tob?

thanks in advance.

Use a stock new Mitsu TOB.

As far as the flywheel bolts go, there may be some truth to that. I had some flywheel bolts come loose on me about 6 or so months ago. I didn't notice them being too short or anything like that but they did come loose from my Fidanza. I just ended up using some threadlocker and torquing them 10 ft lbs. more than spec. I attributed this to my free revving of the engine to 9000 RPM, but perhaps longer flywheel bolts will help alleviate this.

I know I have sold a lot of stock mits. t/o b with after market clutch kits.

Buschur also sells mits. t/o b with there clutch kits as well.

thanks nate and tyler, better safe than sorry.

Never knew about needing longer bolts for a Fidanza. The last time I saw one go on it was on the race car and we used locktite and an impact to put it on. Maybe not the best way but it definitely held during those moments of dire need bouncing off the redline in 2nd gear going into the corner.

i'd never heard of it either, but i'm going to have to terminate my driving job soon due to other demands, and i want to try and make sure i have everything i need for what i have right now... as well as curtail the amount of money i'm spending on parts to something a little bit more modest.

Its rare, but it tends to happen to most people when they miss the 3-4 shift by accidently selecting 2nd and winging the motor to 10k rpm.

my ACT TOB jingles. I'm assuming it'ld eat the input shaft eventually

ACT recently changed their previously metal sleeved TOB to a plastic sleeved one like Mitsu to help alleviate the issues people were encoutering with them.

As to the longer flywheel bolts, this is the first I've heard of them. Manufacturers' specs reccomend using a thread locking agent though I believe, so if people whose flywheel bolts weren't using a thread locker, I'd put that more at fault personally.

As long as you're keeping your revs below 7500 you probably don't have anything to worry about. When I originally put my flywheel on I used thread locker and torqued her to spec. It was only after I free revved her to 9 grand a couple of times that this problem surfaced. Needless to say, I don't free rev her to 9 grand anymore.

Flywheel bolts can also come loose from crank vibration during higher rpms. Sometimes people will run a solid crank pulley that replaces the stock harmonic balancer. Then the oil pump gear shatters, bearings wear bad and fast, and sometimes they find the flywheel bolts loose. Nate - I'm not sure if you have a solid underdrive pulley, but that with the high rpm rev's could be the reason. Or just the high rpm revs and the bottom end not being balanced exact.

I still have the stock pulley with the harmonic balancer. I had the bottom end balanced by good ole Ken Kalina, if that's any indication of how much I should trust how exact it is.

thanks for all the input... i went ahead with them just to be safe, and cuz they're so cheap. hell, i know i'm going to have to free rev to 9grand a couple of times cuz i'm stupid.

LOL! True.

Remember that whole fiasco with Garner's crank. Well he brought the whole engine to Ken and he looked at it, replaced the bearing, put it all back together and said there wasn't anything wrong. LOL! More like he fucked up and didn't grind the crank down right so he's covering his pooper by saying he didn't find anything wrong. But I guess the 3 sets of bearings Garner tried could have been ALL to thin and cause the oil clearance to be .003" on the rods. NOT! What a joke.