Alright when i get up in the morning and go out to my car to start it it takes a while. When i crank it over it doesnt want to start. I turn the key and start pumping the gas pedal and it will start and then die,start and die, start and die. Finally once i get it to stay started by reving around 3500 rpms for a min or 2 it will run fine. If i shut the car down after driving it for a while and then go back out to the car it will start right up. Any help would be apreciated. Oh and i just changed the spark plugs thinking that might be it but it wasnt.

Is this the cranking over problem you had? Does the starter crank over fine, but the car just doesn't fire, or is the battery cable acting all wierd again? I say re-do those battery relocation connections (ditch the wing nuts) and see if it starts better if thats your problem. If its cranking over fine, but just doesn't fire when its cold its probably your IAC. Thats also probably why it idles like crap when its cold (surges up and down). Didn't you and Kris remove that or bypass it? When the IAC is working correctly it gives more air and fuel to the engine when its cold, which makes sense to why your car will start when you give it gas.

Or it could be the fact that I told her you were selling her this summer and she's PISSED!

I replaced the battery cabels and thats not the problem. It cranks over fine but just doesnt wanna start. Kris and i did bypass the iac but i re did it right when i put the new motor back in.

On DSM's the ISC is a stepper motor that regulates air intake during idle. It can't be bypassed because it is part of the throttle body. It can be unplugged or go bad though, which would definitely hurt the idle and from what your describing it sounds like it could at least partially be the cause of your starting problems as well. Since you have to use the pedal to open the throttle plate to provide air to the engine rather than the ISC doing it for you. Kicks specializes in repairing these. Check out his website http://www.crebotech.com/ to read how you can determine if your ISC is bad or not.

The fuel pressure solenoid changes the vacuum signal seen by the fuel pressure regulator during cold starts. This is probably what Kris bypassed. This shouldn't have any affect on idle. It shouldn't have a huge affect on cold starts either. Its there to provide slightly more fuel during cold starts so the catalytic converter lights off more quickly. Emissions crap.

So then what do you think it is then nate?kris?marcus?spy?

You may also want to check for vacuum leaks. When the car is cold you could have an intake gasket that leaks. Once the engine warms up the intake will expand and then some what fill the gap. Also, pumping the gas only works on carbed vehicles. If your dsm is carbed then you have more problems than just about anyone on here can help you with. You may want to try putting the gas all the way to the floor. This will stop the injectors from firing. If you have a faulty coolant temp sensor and it is telling the ECM that it is colder than what it really is you may be dumping to much fuel.

Sounds like the ISC Chris. Did you re-use your old one or one Kris had?

EDIT: DAMMIT GARNER! How many times do I have to tell you change that #*@$ing kanuder valve! LOL!!!!! (inside joke)

i realize that pumping the gas only works with carbed cars but in this case it works for my car. I have no idea why it works it just does but i am asking this question because i wanted to know why my car was doing this or if anyone has had this same problem. I wasnt trying to say that i am a complete dumbass and have no idea about cars or dsm's in general i just thought that i would ask so thanx for the input.

Oh that sounded mean after reading it so dont take it the wrong way. I aprecaite the info.

The same exact thing happened to my laser not all that long ago and it was the ecu. I figured it out for sure that it was the ecu cuz i could unplug the ecu and plug it back in and it would start right up. But if it had been sitting plugged in for a while and i went to start it. It would do the exact thing u are explaining. Replaced the ecu and no such problems since. I'm probably wrong because I dont know all that much. I'm just a beginner trying to learn as much as I can.

Chris... aren't you using a different ECU than what was in it before?

That's good information Luke and Nate.

There's no way to tell over the net Chris, but as usual you always need to verify the basics.

Check fuel pressure
Vaccum leaks
Conections to sensors such as the coolant sensor

CREBOtech has links to other sites that will give you the testing proceedure for some of the other sesnors.

there's a startup fuel enrichment switch enable on your MAFT if you've got 2.01 version which I think you do. In that case, try turning dip switch 3 to the on position. That would take care of your carb'ed car theory garner.

we never replaced his ISC. IAC and ISC are synonymous but generally the ISC is better for DSM terminology because it uses a stepper motor, hence the S, though it actually stands for speed I guess.

I think you're thinking of the EGR that we bypassed that may make a difference on your car since it was throwing a code for a while. Have you scanned for ecu error checks yet? If not, do so and for gods sake, plug that egr sensor back in to get rid of that annoying light if it's still on.

So, try flipping that switch, scan the ecu, and play around with the idle knob or AFPR a bit if everything else seems kosher, yet the problem persists.

My mirage died and wouldn't start, it was burnt ecu. Pull the cover, if it smells like burnt electronics, its toast.

Well i pulled the cover on the ecu and it didnt smell but i saw what looked like a little bit of something leaking from one of the caps but i could be wrong.

GROSS I WANT MY EPROM ECU BACK! Look at me whineing like a little bItch while you are sitting pretty in chicago.

never. you'll have to come up and drag it from my ragged rectum first.