Ok, this broken dome light is driving me crazy.

The dome light does not turn on when you open the doors, floor and iginition lights both turn on though. Map lights do not work.

I pulled the dome light and there's no voltage at the plug in the headliner with the doors open. I imagine one should have power all the time for the map lights, the other should be powered when the door is opened. The dome light did work when hooked directly to a 12v battery. All fuses are good.

What else should I look at? Is there a relay I'm missing?
Where does the dome wire go? I took down the a pillar trim and couldn't find any wiring. I'll run new wiring if I knew where it went, I rather not take down the headliner if I don't have too!

It must be a common problem with DSM's. Im on DSM #3, none of them worked right. 2 of my cars, the light would come on when you open the passenger door, but not the drivers, one the light works on the drivers side, not the passengers Have you checked the switch on the door itself?

Don't pull down your headliner yet. You can test the wiring without pulling it out. I tried to find a wiring diagram for that system, but this damn Chilton's has come up short once again.

Has this dome light ever worked while you've owned the car? There's a chance that the other end or section of the harness is disconnected. You are right in thinking that one wire should be constantly hot (with ignition on), and one connected to the door switch. I can't help you much unless I've got a diagram to work off of, or I'm digging around in the car myself.

Look at the door jamb, locate the dome light switch. Separate the trim right by the door jamb. Remove the switch from the housing in the body. Some have 2 prong harness connectors, others are hardwired. If it is hardwired, leave a 5-6" pigtail on the switch and cut it. If you look at how the switch operates, you will notice that when the plunger is depressed, the switch is "open" with no current being carried through the separated contacts, and when the door is opened, the plunger comes out, making contact at the brass terminals, completing or "closing" the circuit, and the dome light comes on. Your problem is 90% likely to be stemming from poor or no contact when the plunger is out or extended. Take emery cloth and clean the area of contact, you may even need a small file to clean up the shape of the area to ensure good contact. When you are finished, measure resisatnce of the switch, it should be minimal. Reinstall with good connections and it should work well for quite awhile. Sounds long-winded, but it reall is a 10 minute job. Good luck!

Yeah, but if the switch were the problem, his floor lights wouldn't be coming on, either. Also, that wouldn't explain the lack of a constant voltage at the dome light fixture for the map lights.

Check the switch anyways. If it's really nasty like mine was, just remove the switch, disassemble, and soak that shizzy in naval jelly for about 30 min or so. Comes out bright and shiny. You prolly won't need to do this, but mine had about 1/4" of green corrosion on the contacts.

My bad, didn't really read the post... just saw dome light inop and went from there.

I would check the ground for the dome light itself. Also, try to trace the wires as far as possible for the maplights, likely a bad ground, corrosion, or open in the flow.

Ok to answer some of the questions: No it never worked, it didn't work when Darryl owned it either.

I think the switch is Ok since the floor light come on, but I'll check it anyway.

I looked in my Haynes guide schematics and it really doesn't show where the wires go either...

If I knew where the wires went I could do a continuity test. The wires go left under the headliner and don't come out at the A pillar. Now that I think about it, maybe they come down at the B piller down to the switch???

I am sooooooooooooooo your hero, dude. I pulled my own car apart just to help a brother out. I found your problem area. Take off the trim on the driver's side behind the door. Pop the seat bottom out too. Underneath, you will find a bunch of relays and such. I have nowhere to host the pic, or I'd show you.

Anyhow, right behind the seatbelt motor, there will be a black rectangular relay with a small silver cylinder attached above it. This is your culprit. Either he isn't hooked up, or he is on vacation. Hook him up or kick his ass to the curb. Either way, this should fix your problem.

Have a fantastic-licious day!!

You are my hero!!!

I appreciate the effort!

I'll take it apart this week and take a look. Problem is my beast truck is in the way of the garage with a blown transmission. Guess I'll push it into the yard!!

Update.

Well I parked my dead truck in the yard (trans has no 3rd gear!) and got to work on the Talon.

Pull the back seat and side panel to get to the relays....and what do I see?? The two wires running up to the dome light by the B pillar are cut!

Connected the wires and dome lights work..huh, imagine that!

Thanks Iron Goat for pointing me at least in the right direction!

Glad to help, bro.