Mods are listed in the garage. Fuel pressure read 41psi with the vacume disconnected, 34psi connected. Pump has been rewired.

Log is here from Pocketlogger
http://www.elmnet.net/~lange_c/run2_4_15_05.xls
Scroll up to get all the data.

It's running lean, the Injectors are running near over 100% and the o2's are around .8. How ugly does it look to you guys?

About how much FP should I add? I'm going to try a stock auto trans FPR or a 2g (I can't remember what you said you had Darryl...).

Anybody try one of those B&M Commandflo regulators?

you need more injector before you worry about FP. I'd upgrade your pump while your at it to. your knock isnt too bad until what looks like the top of 3rd and 4th? your losing a bunch of timing there. fullthrottlespeed.com get an adjustable FPR when you do.

All those stock narrowband o2 sensors are different, for starters. So don't base your tuning off that.

Your timing looked good for the first two gears, and dropped as the knock spiked to 19 in third. However, if you look, you'll see that the knock is falling consistently in each gear, and happens in direct correlation with your shift point when you lift. Once you get back in it, it starts to fall again.

I would suggest 550s or better. Although, I ran my 450s to an indicated 130%dc when I was at the track. The dc% isn't a true reading. Watch your knock and timing. That's a better way to tune the car than the narrowband o2. Keep the knock low and the timing up, you'll be fine.

I think the knock at the last shift might not be a true indicator. I had to do some funny footwork when I was going down the country road...a little too fast, too big of a crest of a hill. Lets just say it didn't feel normal!!

I'll do another clean pull after I get the rear brakes finished, I stripped hole in the caliper mount.

Do you guys think if I can keep the knocks down (<10) in the last shift, a little more FP will get me by until I can get bigger injectors?? I just ordered a downpipe and test pipe, I'm a little short to buy injectors right now.

After you get the test pipe and dp, I'd upgrade the fuel pump. It's cheaper than a good regulator, and will give you a bit of extra insurance at the top end where the factory pump is failing to give you what you need.

A walbro 190?? A 255 would over run the stock regulator and I'd need an aftermarket FPR right?

Lets clear a few things up here.

A. Running higher base fuel pressure on stock injectors is NOT necessarily a bad idea. They can handle higher pressure. Get too high and the spray pattern changes and thats bad, but raising the fuel pressure a little bit above stock will basically just make your 450's act more like 500's or similar.

B. The injector dc as read by the graph portion of the pocketlogger program is based off of a true reading so you CAN trust it. Its a simple calculation based on the ECU's read engine speed and pulse width output to the injectors. J is correct that the narrowband O2's are NOT trustworthy to tune by.

C. J is correct that upgrading the fuel pump is the next step. If you are planning on sticking with the stock turbo a rewired 190 should do the job for you. If you ever plan on going with something larger go ahead and get the 255 and plan to upgrade to an afpr in the future. It may run a little rich at idle and cruising until you get the afpr, but its better than running too lean at WOT.

By looking at your log, I'd say its your midrange during spoolup that is running lean. If you look at every time you start knocking right after a shift and correlate the knock to the Inj. PW or DC you see that it is rather low compared to the very next sample by a good 3 ms. All PW samples after that stay within a ms of each other as you knock decreases. Ie. all your knock is coming from that short moment after a shift when you get back in it and the turbo spools up. It seems the ECU can't keep up with the turbo right at this point. A larger/rewired fuel pump may help alleviate this.

Thanks for the input guys...I got my brakes fixed so I'll try to make another clean run and post another log if it looks any different.

I'll probably try increase the base pressure first and see if it makes any difference.

If it doesn't, I'll look at injectors or a new pump as cash allows.

Well I tried a fuel pressure regulator I got from a friend with the end crushed to increase the pressure. I figured I give it a try...gauge read 62psi with the vacume disconnected, 56psi connected. Seemed kind of high but I figured I do some runs since I had it mounted.

Log is here on a second gear rolling run: http://www.elmnet.net/~lange_c/run5_3_05.xls

Knock is worse under a WOT run, I would think it would have gotten better. Timing for the most part stayed above 15...and shifts had a cloud of smoke seemingly indicating rich.

On the good side, a 10 min dive around town game up with a 81 % Lo fuel trim which make sence with the increase pressure, but I had no more 2 counts of knock during the whole drive, where before I could get counts of 43 going up a hill.

More pressure definitely helped the low end, seems to pull better with less knock.

But is the pump running out of reserve starting at this high of base pressure?

Can I hurt something running this high of base pressure?

62psi is way on the high side. Under boost there's no way your fuel pump can be keeping up with the 75psi-80psi you are calling for. If you watch your guage you'll probably see the pressure fall off bad at WOT. You'd be ok with 45-48psi, but I wouldn't suggest going much higher than that.

Definitely time for a fuel pump upgrade. Walbro 255 works good for me.

Time to start saving...fuel pump and regulator.....