First off, I put camber where I wanted it using a caster/camber gauge:

Camber must be set first, as changing camber will change the toe settings.
I found the center point of the chassis marked it at both the front and rear.
Next, strings are setup equidistant from the center point. This insures that the car doesn't dogtrack from the rear alignment being cocked to one side.

Toe can then be measured directly from the strings to the wheel, or the brake rotor if its more convenient.

Suspension settings ended up as follows:
-3.5 degrees front camber
-2.25 degrees rear camber
1/16 of front toe out
1/32 of rear toe in
This alignment worked fairly well, but I think next time I'll try more toe out in the front, less rear camber, and I'll try to exactly zero out rear toe. That combination of changes should get the car to oversteer more on corner entry and be more neutral during steady state cornering.