i am trying to figure what would be a safe amount of boost to run on the street on a stock sidemount with a 16g. i am wondering what you guys are running on the street. i would like to run 20psi on my ported big 16g with ported 2G manifold but if i remember correctly wort said he was only running 18psi on his due to the stock sidemount issue. i have 510's and a 190lph pump so i should have enough fuel to run 20psi in the summer i hope... maybe larger injectors in a few weeks if i am running out of fuel. i have a few lines on a front mount if need be, but i don't have the funds really to make that investment right off the bat if i don't have to.

i have no problem running 18psi for right now but i am just curious.

and i apologize for my noobie 16g question.

yeah i thought about that a while ago but there is a bit of fab work into that. if anyone has a supra sidemount that is ready to bolt up let me know. i am also toying with the idea of a starion frontmount of the timebeing untill i can get a better kit.

starion frontmount fs
I imagine this guy has all the piping and shizzy too. For that price, it would be worth calling about at least.

The stock side mount will heat soak soon regardless of what turbo or boost you run with it. I have run 18-20psi with my stock side mount and the hotter less efficiant 14b. If you do so just keep an eye on your logger because a heat soaked IC can create hotter intake charges and more detonation.

You should be able to get a couple good runs before heat oak though.

I ran 20psi and a 50/50 mix of 93 and 110 octane at the track day. About 3/4 of a mile out of the pits, the intercooler was completely heat soaked and the car was noticeably down on power. If you're serious about running 20+psi, get a decently sized front mount and ditch your A/C.

Ditch your AC!?! Screw that!

I plan to run 25-30psi with a front mount and the AC in working order.

Their is always the option to convert the stock sidemount to run a2w. But then you'd have to believe that a2w is better than a2a.

i have picked up a starion IC and it is sitting up stairs. the pipes that were with it have poorly done crush bends teamed with some of the worst welding i have ever seen so i am going to junk those.

there is a mandrel bent hard pipe that comes across the top so the inlet and outlet are on the same side to make it easier to run the new pipes. i am toying with the idea of trying to find thick 2.5" rubber hoses like the stock IC pipes that have bends that will connect the hard pipes that i already have. i know it will expand and will not spool as quick as have a full hard pipe kit but i will probably find rubber lines that will work for the time being and then order the bends i need and weld up once i know the shape i need... or just stop being cheap and order a used buschur kit like i should have done in the first place .

i was thinking of putting a full throttle switch in to the water pump for the window sprayers and filling that resivoir with water and running the line to the IC with a jet so that when i go WOT i will spray the IC but i decided that running a FMIC was just a better idea.

who knows i might do the sprayer on the FMIC if i get bored one weekend.

if you believe? someone correct me if I'm wrong, but a2w is better for the track as opposed to a2a... daily driven, there is some debate...

jim, throw it on a logger, or upgrade your smic.

Thus being my point.

The more worthwhile DIY mod would be to run a homemade water injection kit. One that would come on at a certain boost psi to prevent detonation, cooling intake charge, and enabeling you to run more boost.

In fact, if you're going to stay with a stock side mount, this would be one of the better options besides propane injection wich would allow for more mods in case you opt to go that direction.

My car was already running a stready 235-240 degrees on the track, I'd hate to see what it would be with a 3" thick front mount jammed in front of it.

This is off the subject but with the AC in working order, my car has never run over 205 degrees at the most and 99% of the time it was at 195 degrees. Well, except when my head gasket went south.

Mine sat at 195-200 with the A/C on the whole trip there and back. Things change at a roadcourse

Ahh...at a road corse. Somehow I missed that little detail. That would explain the 3/4 mile measurement then.

16G is on and as a nice suprise when i opened the box there was an FP stamp on the exhaust houseing. i went out for a cruise tonight after a 10min quick tune and i guess i was shooting 2' fire balls and spewing black smoke... so i guess i need to do some more tuning. after the cruise and the results of the spritited driving with a modded STI i think that mid 12's is pretty realistic after my FMIC... needless to say i will be tuning my ass of tomorrow and the car is a shit load of fun now.

JVB code breakdown: I will break my car within 2 days

give jmoushon a ring about hard pipes.

as for 20 psi thats what I ran on my evo3. But, I also had more tuning advantages.

this is coming from the man who has one car that doesn't run and a car that he can't he can't even keep wheel studs one (and neither of which are DSM's). it has been two days and the car is still running like a champ. i am at 16psi right now untill i get the FMIC on. just threw in a walbro255 this morning and i now have the fuel i was lacking above 6500.

and justin... were you running an EMS? i have a chipped Eprom ECU and a S-AFC i dont' know else there is to do besides the standalone (yeah yeah i know MAFT but i like the ease of use and tune on the fly of the SAFC)?

um........both my cars run perfectly fine, drove teh nissan around the other day and probably will pick her back up friday for the weekend.


Havent any wheelstud issues since chicago, now that I am not rubbing my spring all over the tire


you have a walboro 190 sitting around now right?

if your running a 255 I would suggest getting a AFPR. full throttle makes a good one.

I consider the maf-t/logger superior to the stock mas sensor/SAFC. you can set the maf-t up to be just as much tune on the fly. hell mount the box in your glove box or armrest and its just as close.

That's exactly what I did, worked like a charm. Cleans up the engine bay and you can hide the translator and still tune on the fly.