I'm having a bit of trouble with my Talon since the new ACT 2600 clutch install. Mind you, I'm using the old slave cylinder, the stock hydraulic lines, original master cylinder, and original clutch linkage. The only things that I've tried to change is the extended slave cylinder rod and washer under the pivot ball fix which are on the car now. The new rod absolutely makes no difference from the stock one. The clutch pedal only moves about 50% of the full throw it should have. The car has about 145k on it if that tells you about how old the part are.

What it comes down to is, what should I try first? The clutch pedal assembly feels like it's got some play in it as the first half inch or so does nothing to disengage the clutch. I'm wondering if I have to, and I hope to god I don't, take the linkage apart and weld it. Tell me what you think.

Thanks
Brett

The first thing I'd try is replacing both cylinders. They are relatively cheap and worth replacing if they are old anyway. If you do that and bleed the line well, and still have problems, I'd look into the pedal assembly.

Well, in that case, I'm going to go ahead and order the stainless clutch lines too just to save myself some time and effort.

Are there any other modifications I can do for the hydraulic lines while I'm working on them?

Thanks for the help Nate

Well, my next question is what kind of brake fluid should I use for the clutch line? I've got some new Valvoline Syntech (formulated for ABS vehicles) meeting DOT 3 & 4 requirements. What's the general consensus?

Also, should I use the extended slave cyl. rod to bleed the lines after installation or use the old rod? Taboo says to use the old rod but I'm not sure why. Thanks

I used the valvoline BF with good results. It shouldn't matter which rod you use to bleed with. I've bled with the longer rod before.

Thanks again Nate. Looks like that's what is on the agenda for next week.

Well, started on the clutch replacement parts tonight and I've got a couple questions about it. I did my best to bleed some air out of the master cylinder before putting it in but I'm sure it's still got plenty in it. I also got a chance to put the stainless braided line on but haven't had a chance to get the slave on yet.

My question is, do I need to use teflon on these fittings or are they like pipe thread where you don't need to. Not too sure and just thought about this. I didn't see any teflon on it when I took it off but I'm sure it's never been done before and it's possible that it could have dissolved over time.

Second question, is it really all that important to bench-bleed the master cylinder or is it possible to just do it the way I did it? Since it was in such a tight position with the throttle cables and all, I just held a flat plastic washer over the orfice, put some brake fluid in the unit and pumped it until only fluid was coming out. Then I tried my best to put it on without spilling much but I wasn't as careful as I'd hoped. Quite a bit was spilled and I'm sure there's air in it anyway so I've probably got quite a bit of bleeding ahead of me.

Thanks
Brett

I've never bothered bench bleeding them before, and it rarely takes longer than a couple bleed cycles to get the air out.

Any idea on the teflon? Thanks for the comment about bench bleeding.

Do not use teflon.

Well that solves that. Thanks for the help guys I was thinking since it's a pressure fitting that I shouldn't have to but still wasn't totally sure of myself.

Pipe fittings require teflon, flare fittings do not. All of the clutch hydraulic lines use flare fittings.

Thanks Worty, you're my hero

Thanks for the help guys, I should have it wrapped up tonight.

Finally got around to taking the clutch pedal down tonight. HUGE thanks to Taxiwardance (Jason) for all his advice and help with the job. It's nice to have someone telling you what they've been through and the quickest/easiest way to take things apart.

Now for the scary part. Jason and I took the pedal assembly apart but, it didn't seem to have any play in it. Not sure what the problem is but, I'm getting some bushings CNC'ed to replace the plastic units and do some preventative maintenance anyhow. We'll see when it all goes back together.
I'm also hoping to write a VFAQ about this process in order to better explain it and help those that are in need of a walkthrough. Once again, big thanks to Jason for driving all the way from Peoria to help with my car, you're an outstanding guy and DSMer!

Glad I could help. Pretty sweet ride you have there, Good luck getting everything figured out and hope to see it out soon!