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BudmannG
OK people, I'm getting ready to install my 2G mafs mods. I've got the dejon intake for the mafs. My only problem with the 3" intake tube is it seems like it's resting on my wastegate vacuum line. And I don't think that's good at all. Can the wastegate be turned?
I'm getting ready to install the 5 knob SAFC. Not sure where to mount it yet, but I'm still going to put it in. Probably drop it in the center console, that's if it will fit.
I have 550 injectors to go on it tomorrow. Along with the 255 walbro fuel pump. And also a aftermarket FPR. I already have the logger and had problems with it. But got all those straightend out. I think that's it, Did I leave anything out that I should have already?
I got a long day ahead of me tomorrow wacko.gif !
The Iron Goat
Are you talking about the vacuum line for the wastegate or the actuator linkage? If it's on the vacuum line, and it's not crimping anything, don't sweat it.
akamiami
it's the little vacuum nipple on the wastegate actuator that he's referring to. You should _'carefully'_ bend that nipple so that it points more straight at the radiator and gives you the necessary clearance so that no pressure is put on the vacuum line. Don't forgot to zip tie the vacuum line once it's on the wastegate actuator nipple again.

If you're looking to upgrade your AFC to a SAFC or SAFC2 let me know as I have both available for sale used. PM me if you're interested.
black92_tsi_awd
I bent mine by inserting the right size allen wrench into the nipple and bending it very carefully. The allen wrench will give you just enough leverage and help from kinking the tube.
BudmannG
Thanks man I will try that today. I was wondering how I was going to do that.
SCCA Stang
QUOTE (black92_tsi_awd @ Oct 21 2005, 06:13 AM)
I bent mine by inserting the right size allen wrench into the nipple and bending it very carefully. The allen wrench will give you just enough leverage and help from kinking the tube.

I just used a small nail, one that was just big enough to fit in the nipple, and provide support from the inside so that it didn't kink the nipple.

strang, you can use the work kink and nipple in the same sentence with-out talking about sex.
black92_tsi_awd
Beleive me...as I wrote it I started snickering!! smile.gif

I figured somebody would bring it up!
BudmannG
laugh.gif
turbohcar
Perverts! ph34r.gif
black92_tsi_awd
not really a pervert....just a little kid in an old man's body!
turbohcar
Anyhow, prepare for the fuel pump to be an all weekend soaking of the fuel pump lines for hours at a time. I hear it's the most Pain in da Pooper job to do on those cars. Not because it's difficult, it's the rusty lines that you have to get around and being that they're fuel lines, you can't use an open flame on them.

www.straightlinespecialties.com makes the console filler pieces so that you can put the SAFC underneath the radio and fill the tape deck/empty pocket and still have a clean look.

Be ready for a large decrease in spool time and higher Karmann readings, the 2G MAF flows about 30% more then the stock unit. Should be a fun weekend project!
black92_tsi_awd
I just did the fuel pump swap....not fun but here's some more hints:
1) PB blaster every 1/2 hour
2) I took a dental pick to did out all the crusty rust between the thread and fitting to allow the PB blaster to penetrate more
3) I also used a small wire bruch in a dremel to clean off the rest of the rust at the connection-allows more penetration
4) Same above goes for the nuts holding the sending unit in. I had to get vice grips on a few of them. Buy new nuts (5mm I think)
5) Use line wrenches!
6) I cut a small block off wood to fit under the oulet pipe to keep it from moving around alot
BudmannG
Does anyone know what I should set the safc 5 knober at? I would like to be able to make it to Bloomington tomorrow.
BudmannG
Shit I got a problem! The damn walbro 255 fuel pump I bought. A hell of alot smaller than mine and has a different wire hook up. And now my stock pump won't run. And all I did was take it out of the car and layed it down. It is not looking good for me.
I think the damn thing is for a front wheel drive. AURGH!!!!! The guy I bought it off of said it would work. Well I guess not. mad.gif
akamiami
the wiring on the fuel pump is relatively straight forward. black to black, red to red. you will most likely have to solder (do not crimp and do watch out for the heat on gas in the vicinity). If the colors do no match up, you'll have to follow the pinouts on the fuel pump connection on the car, as well as the markings on the fuel pump.

The fwd and awd fuel pumps are identical.
BudmannG
QUOTE (akamiami @ Oct 21 2005, 10:57 PM)
the wiring on the fuel pump is relatively straight forward. black to black, red to red. you will most likely have to solder (do not crimp and do watch out for the heat on gas in the vicinity). If the colors do no match up, you'll have to follow the pinouts on the fuel pump connection on the car, as well as the markings on the fuel pump.

The fwd and awd fuel pumps are identical.

See the problem with that is, I only got the pump and sock and the rubber thing on the bottom. Nothing else, no wires or anything like that.
akamiami
could you take a pic of the wire connections and post it up? or perhaps accurately describe what you're looking at?

I'm thinking of two possibilities here if I remember correctly. In one situation you've got a connector that normally mates directly to the pump. In that case, you should be able to use two female spade type crimpless connectors and effectively make your own plug (minus the plastic portion with the clip). In the other, you've got two posts wth nuts protruding from the pump. In that case, you should be able to use two ring terminals and make your own flying leads from the pump to mate with the wires from the stock assembly.

In any event, the wiring should be your only problem. The only other connection is the short rubber fuel line connecting the pump to the outlet and that can be re-used. Just wrap some zip ties around the fuel pump to secure it to the stock assembly and if you have some rubber to isolate vibrations, all the better.
BudmannG
And why might I want to use crimpless? I dont think I have seen any of these.
I have the one that is supposed to have the plug. I have crimpable terminals.
akamiami
my bad, I don't know why I wrote crimpless. I think I meant solderless.
BudmannG
OK, I got it running. Still not sure about how to set my safc though.
Hey Spy can you help me with that?
ICGerms
With a 2G MAS and 550cc injectors, you're going to be at nearly zero on all of the settings. That's where I started when I installed my 5-knob (I also have 550s and a 2G MAS) and then tuned it by using the logger. Just make sure that your battery is disconnected when the AFC is installed and that when you reconnect the battery, all of the knobs are set to zero (prior to reconnecting the battery).
SCCA Stang
so you say you have it running.

did you use the AFPR that you picked up on ebay???

if so, how well does it work.

Ben
BudmannG
It works like a dream. I had to buy a fuel outlet fitting for the fuel rail. I can't find the link to the one I bought. But it's made by Weapon-R, and it's a nipple not a AN fitting.
BudmannG
Yes it is, A great cheap alternative. It saved my wallet from a beating biggrin.gif !
SCCA Stang
QUOTE (BudmannG @ Oct 22 2005, 09:08 PM)
It works like a dream. I had to buy a fuel outlet fitting for the fuel rail. I can't find the link to the one I bought. But it's made by Weapon-R, and it's a nipple not a AN fitting.

sounds like something I need to check into.

Thanks

Ben
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