BudmannG
Nov 7 2005, 09:35 AM
I was on my way to SCDC and I made it past Springfield with no problems. And then all of a sudden my car starts jerking like I just hit fuel cut. So I feather the pedal to give it more gas and it's like I had an air pocket in the fuel line. It ran like this all the way to the Pekin / Bloomington exit on 155. I took the exit and as soon as I stop at the sign the car dies and won't restart.
So then I called Asiankid to my rescue. LOL, I was so pissed at my car I couldn't even tell him where I was. I sat there for about 15 minutes and I tried to start it a couple of times, then finally it started. It started like it was starving for fuel, a slow putter start I guess you could say. I call Asiankid back and let him know what's going on and where I will be. He and I met at a gas station in N. Pekin, I think that's where I was, LOL. The DAMN thing ran fine the rest of the way to SCDC, and at the track it ran fine no fuel problems.
And then on the way home I made it to Peoria. And it did the same DAMN thing, sputtering, kicking, and starving for fuel. So once again I called Asiankid to the rescue. I sat there for about the same amount of time as in the morning trip up. Tried to start it and nothing, So I sat a little longer made my check in phone calls with the family. And then I thought I would try to prime the fuel pump. And guess what, it started and ran fine all the way home.
At no time did Asiankid actually have to come and help. It was just nice to know that I have friends that are willing to help. No matter what happens in a DSMers life, LOL. Oh, And for some reason everytime I called him he was eating,
If anyone has an answer for this let me know. Asiankid and I were thinking ECU at first. But now I'm not so sure about that, being I had to prime the fuel pump to get it to start last night.
natedogg
Nov 7 2005, 10:00 AM
Did you check your fuel pressure at all when it was causing problems? It should come up when you start the car and stay up after shut if off, slowly bleeding down.
Is the logger indicating any ECU codes? Any chance you were logging airflow or Inj. PW/DC when this occurred?
BudmannG
Nov 7 2005, 10:04 AM
I didn't think about checking the fuel gauge. I wasn't logging at all, and it wasn't hooked up either.
It was almost like the ECU wanted to change it setting and couldn't.
natedogg
Nov 7 2005, 10:12 AM
If the ECU threw any codes you should still be able to check them with the logger, unless you unhooked the battery for any reason.
EDIT: BTW, I had a problem similar to this on my old fwd, when the MAF signal was being interrupted due to a bad wire connection. Another thing to check is to make sure your injectors are all firing.
BudmannG
Nov 7 2005, 10:14 AM
I will do that, I have to run to Jacksonville. So it may be about an hour or two before I reply back.
turbohcar
Nov 7 2005, 10:19 AM
I'm thinking it's the FPR. It's a no-name Ebay $4.00 unit. NCGalant tried to adjust it and couldn't get the fuel pressure to go down.
This makes me think it's one of those "you get what you paid for" instances. Aeromotive is the best (in my opinion) AFPR out there. Don't get a B&M though, they do not go down in pressure, they only go up from where your fuel pressure is already. And make sure it comes with a fuel pressure gauge that readily mounts to one of the ports on the regulator itself.
BudmannG
Nov 7 2005, 10:24 AM
I just went out and checked error codes. And it had error 41 stored no explaination to what it is though.
ncgalant
Nov 7 2005, 10:31 AM
The fuel pressure was actually to low. With 550s and a 2g MAS the SAFC should be nearly 0'd out. When I checked the trims I found the ECU adding its max. After tuning the low to +40 or so the trims balanced out and +30 seemed to work well on the high. The car needs its base timing checked. After that the fuel pressure needs to be set back to stock(38psi) and retuned for the 550s.
turbohcar
Nov 7 2005, 10:41 AM
Ahhh ok, I misunderstood. I guess I just have a firm belief in having to pay good money for top notch parts.
natedogg
Nov 7 2005, 10:51 AM
Hmm, it must have shifted since it was at my place then, because we set it to 37 psi then. It was set at a base around 70! Sounds like the AFPR may be having a tough time sticking with a consistent base fuel pressure.
Otherwise we ran into the same exact tuning issues when we were tuning with the AFC. Had to richen it up seemingly too much accross the board.
BudmannG
Nov 7 2005, 01:18 PM
This is what the logger is telling me now at idle in my drive.
81.9% 92.0% 81.1% 85.0%
FTRL FTRM FTRH FTO2
Now I'm running rich every where.
natedogg
Nov 7 2005, 01:29 PM
I'm still a little skeptical of your AFPR. Like NC said a 2G MAF with 550's should be pretty close to the tune of 0's across the RPM range in the SAFC. But if your AFPR is giving you inconsistent base fuel pressure its going to change the effective flow rate of your injectors.
I also just looked up code 41 on this page:
http://www.vfaq.com/mods/wayback/BradBauer...rical/code.htmlIt labels code 41 as an injector malfunction. I'd check to make sure all your injectors have solid connections and are firing.
BudmannG
Nov 7 2005, 02:22 PM
Natedogg, I did erase the error code earlier. Would that change everything?
And all of my injector plugins are broke, I can't get the little wire clips to stay on. Is there a fix for that? And could that be my problem with the injector error?
ncgalant
Nov 7 2005, 05:42 PM
At this point I'd say to throw your stock fpr back on. Your fuel pressure must be running all over.
BudmannG
Nov 7 2005, 05:55 PM
I did adjust the ftl, and got it to 106%. But I only adjusted the 1000 rpm down to 10% was at 19%.
Now if I put the stock fpr on won't that run me too rich also? And is it a way to find out if the other one is bad?
ncgalant
Nov 8 2005, 06:55 AM
FPRs don't go bad to often in comparison to other fuel parts. If you put the stocker back on, your low throttle settings should all be +/- 10% and your high will probably need to be +higher and higher up to redline. The best thing for you to do is to go through the low cruising at each RPM point(up to 4000) and try and zero out your trims. After that just throw some high numbers in on the high side(I usually start 10% higher than the low) and work down from there until it starts to knock.
natedogg
Nov 8 2005, 12:48 PM
Erasing the injector code just erases the code instance. The code probably reared its head from a loose connection to the injector(s). Sucks that your connectors are broke. I'd try to figure some way to hold the connectors down on the injectors. Maybe even fasten them with some electrical tape or wire...
BudmannG
Nov 8 2005, 01:46 PM
I ran my car to town and I checked the fpr like you said. And as soon as i shut the car off it goes to zero it don't even hold the pressure.
black92_tsi_awd
Nov 8 2005, 01:51 PM
Somethings not right. Either the FPR is bleeding off the pressure or it's leaking at the pump again. Didn't you have a busted hose at the fuel pump before??
Put the stock FPR back on and check the pressure bleed off. Other wise go back to the tank and check.
BudmannG
Nov 8 2005, 01:52 PM
Thanks man I'll do that. I have to go pickup my new toy tonight, LOL.
BudmannG
Nov 8 2005, 03:13 PM
OK, I say it's that POS AFPR! Put the stock back on and it started running way rich. I mean down in the 70% area even lower at one point. SO the POS is coming out and I am going to wait to put another one on. Thanks for all Y'ALLS help!
BudmannG
Nov 15 2005, 04:12 PM
OK, I am still having some problems. It is hard to start after a few hours of sitting. Like the line blead all the fuel back in the tank. Takes like 15-20 cranks and that's cold start, too!
I am running the stock fpr now also.
awd4kicks
Nov 15 2005, 04:38 PM
A long cold start time is THE common symptom of fuel pressure bleeding off as a car sits with the engine off.
natedogg
Nov 16 2005, 08:47 AM
The fuel pressure is always going to bleed off after time, but it sounds to me like you may not have any fuel in your lines at all when you first attempt to start. When there is fuel in the lines it doesn't take long for the pressure to build enough to where the car will start. No fuel in the lines at all causes it to take longer because the pump has to fill the lines and then build the necessary pressure. I'd almost be suspect of either one or more injectors bleeding the fuel off or the pump allowing the fuel back into the tank.
If it were 5 to 10 cranks I wouldn't worry, but 15 to 20 is quite a bit.
BudmannG
Nov 16 2005, 09:02 AM
I hate it when you say injector problems,

. I just got them and put them in before MOD day. And if that is it I'm going to be soooo upset. Just because of what I paid for them.
And as far as the pump I installed it the way the
Vfaq showed to. The only thing I could think of is that the pump is bad.
natedogg
Nov 16 2005, 09:10 AM
You might start by just having the injectors professionally cleaned. I know this has helped out others on here in the past.
BudmannG
Nov 16 2005, 09:15 AM
Is there somewhere local that can do this?
BudmannG
Nov 19 2005, 06:32 AM
OK.... I am beginning to think it's my ecu. I can drive for like an hour (on the highway) and it just stops delivering fuel. I watched my logger yesterday as it was doing the fuel cut syndrom. And my fuel pressure would drop to like -13. I am lost on this problem and have no answers. I was on my way home from Drews last night and it did it again. I had to sit at a poe-duck town park for about 30 min. And it strained to start, but it started. Ran fine all the way home which was about 22 miles.
I really need some help.
turbohcar
Nov 19 2005, 08:14 AM
Change it out with a spare or borrowed ECU. See if it changes anything.
BudmannG
Nov 19 2005, 08:24 AM
QUOTE (turbohcar @ Nov 19 2005, 08:14 AM)
Change it out with a spare or borrowed ECU. See if it changes anything.
Does someone have a ECU I can borrow for about a week. (91 turbo 5 speed)
BudmannG
Nov 19 2005, 09:02 AM
Could this be my power transistor?
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