I'm throwing a Engine Coolant Temp Circuit Malfunction code. I talked to one of my friends over at Advanced and he said that there's a "checklist" i should run through before i try to replace the Switch, Controller or the electric plug.

Any thoughts?

I'm also getting some oil in my valve cover (where my sparkplug wires are). I can't tell where it's comming from. I don't belive it's comming from the Oil Cap.

The oil issue might have something to do with this. Well after my car is warmed up...i'm getting a somewhat erratic idle. my toggles my GM MAFT and the screw on my Throttle body to no avail. it idles at 1200 then drops and bounces from 1000 to 1150 then back to 1200. it's like a cylinder isn't hitting right or something.

Sorry about the blast of problems but advice and your experienced knowledge would be helpful.

oil in the spark plug galley is typical of a cracked valve cover. Check the inside corners for tiny cracks.

oooh...that sounds like fun

Nuthin' a little JB Weld won't fix. I had the same problem, and ended up being the oil cap, even though I swore to God it was on there well enough. I ended up tightening it down so hard you needed the filter wrench to get it off.

Also, be sure to check the EGR valve for leaks and such. Could be the culprit of your idling woes.

EGR Valve....that's the little valve on the left side of my valve cover that has the hose that runs to the Intake right?

If so...then i just checked it saturday.

The Oil Cap has been pretty tough to get off as of late

EGR is bolted to the intake manifold under your throttle body. You're reffering to the PCV valve.

ahh...thank you.

how would one go about checking an EGR for leaks?

There will usually be some black carbon buildup around it, but that's not always the case. A stethescope works well, or the standard leakdown check.

check around the valve cover bolts for a crack... and then fill that thing in with JB weld untill you can get a new one. you also might try to double gasket the cap. you can get a new gasket from mistsu for like $4.

what was the number of the code that it was throwing? if the coolant temp sensor to the ECU is dead it might be sending the wrong single to the ECU as far as the cold and hot idle settings (you have two coolant temp sensors one to the guage and one to the ECU both located on the water neck by the thermostat). borrow a datalogger and check the code... and check to see what temp the ECU is seeing. i had one of the wires off of my ECU coolant temp sensor and the ECU defaulted to warm idle. so in the winter the car would die after it cranked over when it was cold.

the engine is Nate's old galant engine...i'm wondering if that's coming into play due to computers not matching up.

i belive the code was P0015 (according to Autozone yesterday)

Correct me if I am wrong but won't a leakdown only get as far as the intake valves(unless there is a problem)? With a bent or stuck intake valve you hear the air through the intake, a damaged exhaust valve would allow audible air out the exhaust, and a blown head gasket could be heard in the crank case...

is there anyone around champaign (besides KOU) that could spare some time to help me out? because i don't think i even know what i'm looking for.

You're totally right, but I was referring to checking the EGR valve. If there's a leak at the seal, you'd certainly hear it.

i don't hear any leaks....i don't belive it's a boost leak.

next step is to switch out my plugs and wires