Ok, my talon is bone stock never seen more the 10 psi ( or whatever stock is ) and Im getting ready to change the head gasket. Im going to just order a .020 over rebuild kit from MACHV.com but have a ?. I have oil in my coolant, and one of the cylinders psi is lower than the others. 1-162 2-163 3-163 4-149 so i figured it is the headgasket. I dont really want to rebuild the motor since I know its never been beat on and I really wanna race on slopony or dsmday.

Should I just replace the headgasket, water pump , and timing belt for now and rebuild it completly in the winter months? pulling the motor twice doesnt bother me.

Or should I just go ahead and do it all now? Again the motor is bone stock and indicates all signs of just a blown headgasket.

If I do it all now I wont have it done by either event and that wouldnt be very cool.

I am probably just going to leave it for now and do it in the winter but just wanted everyones .02 cents.

thanks
Travis

stock boost is 12-14 psi.

service limit on cylinder compression is 135. a good motor should be around 150-155. If the motor runs, I'd say you didn't do the compression test correctly. most of the time the motor won't run for shit if it's got compression under 90.

Take your motor to a machine shop before ordering a rebuild kit. Only they will be able to tell you what, if any oversize parts you need. This is exactly the reason I'm not rebuilding my motor right now... I had a kit with all stock parts, but my motor needed bored .40 over and the crank needed turned.

It's hard to know what to do without pulling the motor apart an knowing for sure if it's really a blown headgasket as you think, or if there are other forces at work. Only way to know for sure is to tear it down.

Thats what I thought and that sucks bad!!! Although I guess it would suck even more to be in your boat and have the standard parts that you cant use. Guess ill have a busy weekend.

Oh yeah, those numbers are 162,163,163,149 just forgot the ( 1 )

If that's the case, I'd leave it alone. I highly doubt you blew a head gasket if you're still getting 149 on the worst one. That motor is fine.

But if that's the case, the why would he have oil mixing with coolant? Could have good compression with a bad gasket if the damage is limited to the coolant sleeve or something similar, I suppose.

I'd suspect the water to oil cooler...

Good point. It's always helpful to have a couple sets of eyes looking at a problem.
Speaking of rebuilds, how's your's coming, Rob? Are you painting it yellow? For fear of the Goat!?!?! Muwhahahahaha!!!

It's black... like a ninja...

Ok, thanks for the advice and about the water to oil cooler. Should I just change the seal or the whole thing. The cooler is 420$ brand new and I have a couple seals they were only $3. Im still going to pull the motor and clean it up real good this weekend.

the part that goes bad is where the water lines feed into near the oil filter. there are disks of alternating water and oil, intended to cool the oil. they tend to leak over time. I've got a good one I just pulled off my motor if your interested. You'll need the gasket is all.

ive got an extra one that im gonna switch it out with. Is there a way to tell if there bad?

which head gasket should i go with?

mitsu metal 4 layer

cometic

Both are good HG's but given a choice I'd go with the cometic. Get some ARP head studs too.

yeah i have those waiting in the checkout just had to have an input on a head gasket. Thanks and that was the one I had picked.

Cometic makes two different headgaskets for these cars. One is a 25psi or lower rated and one is a 30+ rated gasket. Both of which are good, just depends on what you want to do. The Mitsu 4-layer (the one that I HAD on my car) is also a very good gasket. It's supposed to hold 25psi as well with the ARP's. Make sure that you torque the ARP's down in the same order as stock and follow ARP's torque specs.

anybody ever gotten the .040 over rebuild kit from machV.com?