I think building a car is not so much throwing parts at it, as it is observing the deficiencies of the current setup and imporving on them. Personally I think you need to take a step back and take some time to get used to the car and how it behaves, and then plan your next move one step at a time.

More cars end up getting sold or parted out because the owner threw a ton of parts and money at it, and then are dissapointed becasue it didn't perform to their expectations.

Windell, please clean your grammar up. It's just sloppy and makes people less willing to help.

And you're being offered advice as to how to do just that. One piece at a time. When you put 6 variables into an equation, it makes it that much difficult to tune because you're not exactly sure what's causing the problems inherent with adding aftermarket parts.

An E316G will take you places you've never been. It may not be enough to take down a GT35R, but it will go extremely far and support other options such as the cams you speak of.

If your going to spend money on a FWD three things. Stock maniflod is good for 400 WHP, get a prcision turbo that bolts up with an internal gate, and AMS= Alot of Money Spent. If your on a budget buy other parts. You don't need ALKY, spend money on a turbo, fule system, intercooler HICP's and a set of BFG's

wont 272's be a bit much for a 16g car?
also, i would think 950cc injectors are a bit much if all you have to tune with is an afc...
you could save money on the springs and retainers. alot of people are running 272's on stock valvetrain and revving to 8000rpm.
unless you raise the rev limiter, you wont gain much from the smim.. the money could be spent in better areas.

what are you looking for out of your car? Set some goals

He's looking for 11's on a fwd if I remember correctly.

272's aren't too big for a 16g _if_ you're just looking for hp, AMS proved this in a dyno test some time ago. sure, you're picking a set of cams that don't match the turbo very well, but if you're okay with sacrificing 30 tq down low for 10 hp up top, it's a viable setup.

your biggest problem achieving your goals will continue to be traction, traction, and reliability in a distant third if you do this properly. I seriously doubt HP will be a concern untill you're really knocking on the door of 11's. So keep that in mind while you debate whether you're better investing in an engine mod or a drivetrain mod. To give an idea, my concentrations would be on drivetrain mods to get those wheels to stick, weight reduction mods, and then, finally, the engine parts to get you 350 whp. If you get your FWD down to 2300 lbs with 350whp and can actually cut something like a 1.9 60', you'll be golden.

The alky and AMS intake manifold are just bad ideas so get them out of your head NOW!

hopefully u have thought about internals that is the main thing i would look at right away. before all of the external high psi stuff. you will be able to hit 11's on stock internals but your reliability is going to go down in a hurry. that i know of most of us probley don't have the money to rebuild after every weekend at the strip. with that said if you do just do the mods you are talking about a afc can do the trick but i doubt any of us are good enough tuners to. do the dramatic tunning that a large set up needs, so also save some money to take your car to a quality tunner.

don't worry about the grammar we are car nuts, not english majors.

I agree with miami. Spending money on getting traction for that fwd will be just as important as making it faster. Traction mods to consider:
-Equal length half shafts off an AWD. (I think you already have this though)
-limited slip differential
-suspension with adjustable shocks and stiffer springs or coil-overs.
-stiffer motor mounts (homemade or bought)
-sticky tires
-anything you can do to reduce body flex.

Wow. Um, I don't think that anyone here would agree that engine internals should be his first course of action on his upgrade path. That's usually one of the later mods that are done once his present HP level justifies it.

Also, we have a wide array of VERY skilled tuners here on the forum. As precise as a dyno shop? Maybe not, but just ask Spy if he thinks he got a good tune on his car capable of feats most of us only have wet dreams about. Just watch what toes you may or may not be stepping on.

Miami, I totally agree with the low weight concept, but I believe Windell wanted a full-interior setup, so that's going to be extremely difficult to shed weight and retain the stock pieces. Perhaps some custom lightweight fabrications would be in order to solve this problem?

And for god's sake, clean up the grammar. Try using some periods and capitalization, folks.

Ah, I didn't realize full interior was a stipulation of the original plan. That complicates things a good deal.

Tell you what Windell, you might want to get in contact with eclipsegst on these boards and speak with him about building up a fwd. His 16G FWD 5 speed would provide you with a good deal of ideas and give you a better idea of the work necessary to get a full interior street FWD into the 11's.

if 16g and cams are a must, here is something to consider
http://www.automotosports.com/cam_test.asp

i didn't mean to step on anyones toes, it is just my personal feeling that for 11 secs or lower with a full interior exspecially. i am just stating that the power needed in my mind would require at least some carefull cosideration of the internals. exspecially if the motor has a decent amont of miles on it. again this is just my oppinion, and that i know of that is what he was asking for.

Sounds like you fried the piston rings, now the mad scientist and I are going to have to pull the block apart.

For real though, to much blow by = needs rebuild. You might try double gasketing the oil cap as a bandaid for the leaking problem.

you can take the valve cover and get a screw in cap and bung and have a shop weld it in for you..
my oil cap doesnt even have a gasket on it so mine leaks like crazy

Forgot, you were an expert.

hey.... its windell!

and ya better watch it with that ninja there.. you might offend him and he will be forced to karatisize your ass

A full interior 11 sec FWD is possible, but very difficult. I personally hit 120+mph at Joliet last year, which should be good for low 12s if traction was there, but my best that day was a 13.22. Actual slicks will be necessary.

But if I were to do it again, I'd do it very simply. E316G, ~780cc injectors, good IC, MAFT, and a 100 shot wet kit. That, in my opinion, would get you where you want to be on slicks, provided that you do the other traction mods already mentioned. These cars are simple, and to complicate them does not pay off.

on my stealth the Mitsubishi oil caps leak stock. Seriously they only last about 10 minutes before the oil starts seeping out; and I have krank-vents!

here windell, go to this link http://www.personal.psu.edu/users/d/j/djl242/
that guy is in the 11's with a fwd and very few mods..