I need to clear this up, I'm a little confused.

How are short term 02 trim and long term trims "added" on 1g's.

If my long term Lo Trim (idle) at 83% and the 02 trim (short term) trim oscillating between 95 and 106, that means the ecu has stabalized the A/F at 14.7 by constantly pulling fuel out?

So the goal would be to have the long term trims around 100 and the short term trims oscillating between 95-105?

To get the total trim, you would do low + O2 / 200
In your case yes it is taking out fuel at idle. You want your long term trims to be 90-110 and your O2 to bounce between the same.

Low is used 0-100 hz
mid is 100-200
high is 200-open loop

so basicly mid isn't hardly used at all. Hope that helps

Thanks for the explanation, that clears that up.

With the setup I have now, 550 injectors running at 44 psi (so acing like 590's) I have the base settings on the translator set for 600's. Boost is about 15psi

Idle knob set at +30%
Mid knob set at -10%
WOT knob set at -15%

The trims are
Hi 97
Mid 108
lo 92

Wideband at WOT is about 10.2.

Why would the car need so much more fuel at idle and is pig rich at WOT??? I would think it be the other way around.

If I take out another 5% on the WOT, I can get the WB to read about 11.5 but have 10-17 count of knock. Some race gas at the track should solve that, I hope.

As a side not I accidently had it set for 17psi of boost, car really seems to haul but I had 20-23 counts of knock.

Sorry for my rambling, but I'm beginning to hate the translator as a tuning device. Seems like one day it does one thing and another day it act a different way! Or I still don't know what I'm doing!

Any other tips would be greatly appreciated!

FYI - It's not the Translator that is causing different results each day. It's actually the Mitsubishi ECU it's self. Natedogg and I had huge problems with this when I used to tune with boost & water injection prior to having any other tuning device. On one day we would kill knock totally in all instances, then the next day it would come right back like we did nothing.

I've read that the Mitsu ECU is very finiky inparticular to weather and humidity changes. That used to be my number one struggle before I started fighting hard part problems.

take your WOT back to where it was and turn your fuel pressure down 1-2psi to lean it out. That will keep your timing where it is and just lean out the fuel.

Ok, sounds good, i'll have to get a adjustable regulator. Right now I'm running a regulator from a 2G turbo t get the 44psi.

I was thinking about this one: http://www.importevolution.com/product_inf...roducts_id=1434

That's the one I had on my old galant. I had very good results with it.

Cool, I like the direct replacement aspect without having to buy more hoses etc for a aeromotive.

Now to find the money...

FYI, that's an excellent FPR!!! For the small amount of time I had it in my car it was great and even has an access port for an Autometer FP gauge on the FPR itself with use of a 90* elbow from one of the fuel line distributors.

2 good reports on the FPR, sounds lke a good buy to me.

I assume you already sold your FPR, Turbocar?