I got to thinking about optimizing my 14B setup and what could be added/changed to get there. One thing I came across is adjustable cam gears. Now I realize alot of people running them probably have them set "straight-up" and are just looking at the bling factor. I'm don't care about bling, I'm interested in the performance.

I saw these that are pretty reasonable Fidanza Gears

From this ARTICLE it explains the basics:

Advancing Intake and Exhaust : This will provide the car with more bottom end power, and will decrease top end. Advancing both cam gears will move overlap earlier but will not increase it.

Retarding Intake and Exhaust : This will increase the cars top end, but will decrease low end. Retarding both cam gears will move the overlap later and but will not change the amount of overlap.

Advance Exhaust Only : This will help the cars top end, and it reduces overlap.

Retard Exhaust only : This will help the cars mid range power, very useful for cars with big turbos / big cams. By increasing overlap, It decreases lag significantly. Doing this will bring the boost on all at once. Very common DSM modification.

Advance Intake only : This will increase overlap and helps the cars bottom end and mid range power. This mod will bring the turbo on all at once, although isnt a very common mod for DSMS.

This ARTICLE explains how to use the adjustable gears to degree in your cam to make sure them set up correctly for a starting point (ie match the cam card)

What I'm looking for is:
1) People's experiences in using adjust cam gears and what engine/turbo setups benifit from these adjustments.

2) Any hard data on timing adjustment (ET differences or dyno numbers). Kick's, I think you used some cam adjustment last time on the dyno right?

3) Any gears to stay away from-quality wise

I bought the Fidanza gears for AMS...Just because ti was an after thought, I needed them fast and they were actually the lowest price at the time.
I did some research and the Fidanza's have 5 locking nut's per gear which is more than some. I don't think I found any gears with a bad name. But Fidanza's name was good especially considering the price!

That particular Dyno day that I turned 453/457 was really only to find the best cam gear setting. I went both ways on both gears and found 2 degrees advanced on the intake made the most difference with the least knock. Keep in mind this is with far from stock cams, but I was able to up my initial HP from like 420 to 450ish with this small 2 degree adjustment.

I'm not sure it will do much on a stock cam. I did read there were some people doing it on DSMtalk, but since it was not my set-up I don't remember the turn-out.

If it were me again, I would follow the 10second FWD, 14b guy's method. Except I would try AWD without all the crazy lightening, using the mods you have in place...use straight race gas, maximise the 14b boost which you may have already done and then crank the timing until you see knock again. It wont run 10's like the light FWD but you already have more potential in your set-up.

Last time I was tuning a car on the dyno I retarded the exhaust cam by 3 degrees and got a 52 WHP gain. I haven't done it personaly but a few guys on Tuners are saying that they are getting 500-700 RPM faster spool buy retarding the exhaust cam 2 degrees. For the price, and the amount of work it takes to change them. IMO a better buy would be a new set of cams from Brian Crower. He started his own company away from his father and is selling cams for around 350 bucks. We have a WD acount with Crower Cams and Equiipment, and they sell the same cams to us for 50 bucks more than Brian is selling his cams to the public.

awdkicks,
I've been thinking of trying for 22psi, which may require 116 to keep the knock at bay. I got some knock at 20 psi but not enough to pull timing. Couple more psi will probably push me over the edge and start pulling timing.

How are you suggesting to "crank the timing"...increasing the base timing with the CAS?
I've seen Bucci's website, that car is pretty lightened. No where I want to go.

Mitsu 77
What kind of setup where you seeing a 52 hp gain on? Turbo size?

It was a t3/t4 with only 13 PSI. Due to customer request.

You could do some improvement with the CAS, but it will be limited and I would only do that when the race gas is in her.

On my current set-up I would have Ncgalant crank the timing maps on my EPROM. With out that, EMS, or DSM link I don't know how you could do it. That would defiitely in my bag of tricks though no matter what.

Be carefull trying 116. Every DSM that I have EVER seen use it found it to be way too rich for their tuning. Like I said I ran straight 112... no mixing with pump gas and only hit 4 counts of knock at the top of 4th with 450cc injectors and 24 hot psi.

Thanks for the heads up on the 116.

I think maybe next time I go to the track I'll bring a hand pump and a 5 gal can to get rid of all the pump gas. I forget, is 112 available at Cordova? I thought 116 was the next available after 110?

I didn't think messing with the CAS was too popular. Most of what I've read doesn't recommend it.

I've been shopping on EBAY for a good deal on a EPROM ecm. After watching Ncgalant tune on your car when you had it on the dyno, it's been on my mind every since.

Yes, 112 is available at Cordova. That's where I got mine.

BTW - I just emtied my tank with the drain plug on the bottom, driver side of the tank.

The BP in Pekin near the river pumps 110 in case you are interested. They will only pump into gas cans or a trailered car though.

don't forget that you can use a eprom from a GVR4, you just have to swap the case's.

Kicks,
With my luck the drain plug will leak after I try to loosen it!

Nate
What's the cost on the 110? Cordova's is around $6 if I remember right.

Mitsu90
Thanks for the info, I'll search for those also.

I had no issues draining mine from the plug several times. Its a bit harder to get loosened the first time because of the undercoating around it but after that it loosens and tightens just fine with no leaks.

Can't remember off the top of my head, but I remember it being much cheaper than what Cordova charged.

the last time I priced the 110 at the BP in pekin it was $3.99