Well my clutch master cylinder took a crap last Weds. Got hard to shift on the way to work. Went to leave for lunch and would not go into gear with the car running. Had it trailered home.

Replaced the master and the slave. Clutch works good but it squeal faintly with the clutch pedal up. How could the bearing go bad? Could I have messed up the clutch fork?

God I don't want to pull the trans right now....

Which TOB did you use when you put it back together?

It still is running the ACT TB. Wasn't squeeling until after the master cyl crapped out.

I didn't touch the trans this week, just swapped the master and slave.

maybe you need a longer push rod!

I bought the sbr extended pushrod and it wasnt long enough yet. had to end up making my own which I should have done in the first place.

Probably is the TOB... I've heard the ACT's make more noise from the begining than an oem, and they don't last as long either.... sorry!!

Driving a while on the bad TOB shouldn't screw up my ACT clutch....or will it?

The reason I ask is what AWD DSM already answered. The ACT's don't seem to last as long as the OE Mitsu ones.

Personally, its a matter of opinion how long you can go with a crappy TOB. IMO, I would treat it like a bad wheel bearing because it's just about as important. Git-R-Switched ASAP!!

OE TOB is cheap from the dealer anyway. Might as well man up to it and get it out of the way.

Shouldn't, unless it decides to grenade on you. More likely than that it will screw up the input shaft on the tranny if it siezes up.

I wouldn't go that far, I thought the same thing once upon a time....

That bearing seized??

Well I picked up a TOB from Pioneer Pkwy Mitsu yesterday. I was surprised they had it in stock and it was only $35.

Pulling the trans Fri.

The wife is only driving the little one to preschool (2 mile, 2 days) to keep the milage off of it.

Told you it was cheap!!!

Yes, Midwests bearing seized on the shaft. I remember him prying on it with a baseball bat.... good times buddy.

Make sure you use some good wheel bearing grease on the input shaft and pack the bearing with it before you install it. That will help it from doing what Midwests did.

Well, the Golfball just went on a flatbed ride again. Clutch went out on the wife taking the little one to school...

I'm gutting the car tonight.

Not good brotha!!

Tear her down and see what you can find.

yeah trust me man you don't want it to sieze, if I remember correctly Mitsu77 had to use a crank puller to get it off when my siezed up.

Well, this came out of the bell housing when I pulled off the inspection cover. Plastic backer from the TBO I would guess.

Piece matches the new TOB on left.

Not good

ouch, definetly not. Guess its a good thing you got it before it caused more damage.

Well, hopefully it didn't cause any more damage. Won't know to I pull the trans. I dissassembled everything, all I need to do is pull the axles and drop the trans. At least there wasn't anything that looked like clutch fingers laying in there.

And hopefully no metal shavings right?

Didn't see any...got my fingers crossed!

Due to work, I won't probably get a chance to pull it out until Friday.

Well, I was snowed in today so after clearing the driveway, out to the garage I went.

TOB Is trashed!!! Came off easy, thank God.

Trans snout and fork look OK

Clutch fingers, don't look so hot

Ouch. It's not as bad as expected but, I'm not so pleased with the clutch fingers. I'd be tempted to file them down and put it all back together.

better safe than sorry IMO. I'd buy a new pressure plate so a couple months down the road you dont have to drop the trans and replace the entire clutch assembly.

Hmm. I'm mixed on that one. I would be tempted to re-use the pressure plate because a new TB should work properly with that minore gouging and that's been my old nature. Then again, I've been changing my ways lately and $110 or so for the peace of mind and idea of doing the job once and right the first time seems applicable here.

I am in agreement with kicks. Just put an extra washer under the clutch fork pivot ball to take up the extra slack from the gouging.