Have a problem with your clutch disengaging? Have you replaced both your master cylinder, slave cylinder, bled the lines, adjusted the pedal, used a stainless clutch line, and put in a longer slave rod with still no luck? Well, this is the next step for you to make your hydraulic system bullet proof. Being as this is a dated website and is no longer available on the internet, there are NO PICTURES to go with the explanation. But, if you're careful and remove the entire clutch pedal assembly under the dash, you can easily follow the directions. If you need pictures or to see what one looks like, contact taxiwardance here and he could probably take pictures of his mockup if he's still got it.

If interested in this modification, plan on taking the drivers seat out of the car and laying several towels or cushions down because you will be lying on your back for an extended period of time.

Copied and pasted from www.taboospeedshop.com thanks to the Wayback Machine!

The clutch lever is the weakest link of the clutch pedal assembly on 1G cars. When heavier-than-stock clutch (such as the ACT2600) is being used, the square hole (circled red) in the clutch lever has a tendency to wear out due to the increased pedal pressure required to disengage the clutch, which results in excessive play in the clutch pedal linkage, incomplete clutch disengagement and grinding when changing gears. The only solution that really works is welding the clutch lever to the clutch pedal rod. The entire clutch pedal assembly needs to be removed from the car for this procedure.

Locate the clutch master cylinder adjustment rod and loosen the 12mm nut securing the rod to the C-bracket. Unscrew the adjustment rod from the C-bracket until it completely falls out of the bracket. Disconnect the brake master cylinder rod from the brake pedal by removing the cotter and clevis pins from the C-bracket of the brake master cylinder rod. Remove the kick panel and steering wheel column covers, disconnect the steering column electrical connectors, the brake light switch, the cruise switch and the clutch safety switch. Unbolt the fuse box located to the left off the brake light switch. Disconnect the brake pedal return spring. Drop the steering column by unbolting it from the support brackets (8 12mm bolts).

Remove the lower steering column mounting bracket (3 12mm bolts, 2 in front + 1 behind the clutch pedal rod tube, hard to get to). Unbolt the brake booster (4 12mm nuts) and the brake booster bracket (1 12mm nut on the bottom, 2 12mm bolts on the top). Unbolt the clutch master cylinder bracket (1 12mm bolt on the top).

In the engine compartment, unbolt the clutch master cylinder from the firewall (2 12mm nuts) and pull it toward the front of the car without disconnecting the clutch hydraulic line. Unbolt the brake reservoir from the firewall (2 12mm bolts) and push the brake booster with the brake master cylinder and reservoir as far as possible toward the front of the car. Use a piece of wood or hammer as wedge between the brake booster and the firewall to keep the brake booster off the firewall.

Loosen the clutch pedal assembly and start rotating it clockwise while pulling it toward the rear of the car until you clear the brake cylinder rod. If you have a hard time to clear the small bracket the fuse box was mounted onto, bend it with a pair of pliers. Once the left side of the clutch pedal assembly cleared the fuse box bracket and the brake cylinder rod, rotate the assembly counterclockwise until you clear the steering column and are able to pull the assembly out of the car.

You may either take your chances and simply weld the clutch lever to the clutch pedal rod without replacing the stock plastic bushings in the assembly, or purchase our heavy-duty bronze and 4140 chromium-molybdenum steel bushing kit. If welding the clutch lever with the stock plastic bushings, be very careful not to overheat the lever - so the bushings wouldn't melt. You may either remove the nut and washers and weld the lever directly to the shaft, or weld the lever to the nut and the nut to the shaft, either will do.

If using our heavy-duty bushing kit, replace all the plastic bushing in the assembly with the bronze bushings in the kit prior to welding the lever to the rod. Remove the C-bracket from the lever and remove the original plastic bushing from the clevis pin hole. Insert the 4140 steel bushing and weld it to the lever. Attach the C-bracket by the 4140 steel pin (optional) and weld the pin to the C-bracket ateach end prior to welding the lever to the shaft.

Once welded, install the clutch pedal assembly back to the car. Its installation is MUCH easier than its removal.