That's right...It keeps over heating. I put a C&R aluminum radiator with a spal fan, I installed a 170 degree thermostat and when I drive on long stretches of road like the highway it gets hot and spews coolant out of the over flow. Now in town driving its fine but as soon as I run it on the highway it gets warm ????
Any suggestions?

"its gettin hot in here....."
uh....i dunno. take off all your clothes??
heh. sorry. i dunno man.
thats a sucky problem though.

Ditch the fan and put the stocker back on. Those aftermarket slimline fans pretty much suck, or not enough depending on you you mounted it.

I've got a fluidyne and I _was_ using 2 slimline fans but since they couldn't cut it, I went back to a single stock main fan and my cooling problems have been solved. Before, it would hang out at 3/4 hot, now it's always below half.

I agree, go back to the dual stocker fans. They pull a lot more air than any of the 'slim' aftermarket fans due to the gigantic motors

When I got it home tonight I felt the air coming from the fan. At the top of the radiator it was hot and at the bottum it was cold. A drastic difference. Am I getting the radiator full enough???

Make sure you burp the cooling system a few times. Fill her up with water/coolant til she starts overflowing. Then run her til she gets to operating temp. with the heat on high. Turn her off, let her cool down, and add more water. Rinse and Repeat.

Sounds like the radiator is doing it's job pretty well if there is that big of a difference half way down. I'm sure that monster front mount you have is making the cooler part of the radiator actually absorb the warmer air off of the FMIC when you are cruising.

It's not an insurmountable problem, but it definitely makes things a little more difficult. Have you tried the stock fan yet? I'd be interested, because I've heard that Spall is the best slim line fan (Meaning the others are junk) and is what I used on my Cobra. It seemed to work well for me.

Marcus

My stock fans are melted from the Super16G being so close. I think the fan does a fine enough job when it's working. I'm gonna wire a switch and turn it on manually on the longer stretches. I'm also gonna pull the Thermostat.It's gotta be something easy. I'm going from a two fan set up to a one fan set up???? Maybe it's not wired right...

this may sound stupid but have you checked to see that the air is flowing the correct way because i've seen many a fans get wired wrong and the air flow is reversed. could be a possibility.

it pulls the air through the radiator

Gutted an old T stat put it in and wired a switch to turn on the fan.
On a 34 degree evening I thought I would give it a whirl.
Same result.In town perfect temps. Hell really low temps and then when I run it a few miles hard on an open stretch of road...BAM!!!! I notice coolant on the windshield and sure enough the temp rises. Anyone have anything for me? Any trouble shooting ideas? It seems like the higher rpms and the higher speeds are effecting it. After I let it sit with the fan running (the whole time) it kools right down, I put water in it, and fire it up and drive easy home and there are no problems

W.

Well my dads 95 dakota he used to have kinda did the same thing. It cruised fine in town and highway, but one day i took it up to 80 on a country road, runnin it hard and the temp gauge almost pegged on it. I shut it down for a while and let it cool, got back and drove home and it was just fine. It ended up being some of the tubes or whatever inside the radiator were plugged and he had to get a new one. After that it was just fine. Guess it could be a possibility, even though the vehicles are different.

Todd,

My theory is that when your engine is already warm your 170 stat was staying open because it couldn't cool the fluid below 170. Obviously the gutted stat let's the fluid flow all the time also.

So your fluid is never getting to spend much time in the radiator at higher RPM's because the water pump is churning like no tomorrow.

Try the stock 190 and see if it helps by holding the water in the radiator a bit longer. Just an idea.

Marcus

I'll try it tomorrow.The stock reservoir and cap didnt help....I'm up for any suggestions.Gonna go in for a pressure test Wish us luck .......

Pressure test was a big pass. So no leaks or head gasket issues. Marcus I'm gonna try the stock T stat in a minute. I'll keep the old reservoir on and put the new pressure cap on...I'll keep you posted. I heard a suggestion of making a restricter....Anyone heard of someone having to do this before?

Cap and stock 190 degree T stat didnt help....Got it home and it was at 213 degrees.I checked the hoses and the top one was hot but the bottum one was cold.....Wierd....I ran the fan the whole time and the heater on the way back...This thing is bugging me....Antifreeze smells worse then rotting flesh

DAMN! I'll keep thinking...

BTW-Are you sure all the anti-freeze is coming from the over flow? I would assume so since you just did a pressure test...but you keep taking about the sweet stench.

Marcus

To me that only leaves 2 things. Air flow...or water pump. And if it were I, I'd check the water pump...I forgot to check for you todd on that price....I'll get back to ya.

or somthing is plugin it up...doubt that though. It just sounds like to me you arn't getting a flow through the system, hence the drastic temp change through the radiator....just my 2 cents

Todd...I got an email back from chris at mitsu...here it is

I will sell it for $90.80 plus tax and i have one in stock. List is $121.07. 25% disc

So....hope that is a good price for ya. Back when I worked there I was only able to buy it for 80 bucks. So you really arn't paying that much more than what I paid for mine

If the water pump was bad it would leak or make noise inside its housing (wobble wobble) I'm not dismissing having to replace it but I cant justify tearing into this thing when I'm not seeing leakage or noise....
Anyone heard of a way to measure your flow rate?

The C&R radiator flows 3 more gallons then stock so I'd say that it is working fine. So I went ahead and bought a water Pump (thanks Jake) and I'm gonna try to tackle that this weekend. Anyone have any helpfull hints on this install?
Wish us luck!!!!

My dad had a heater core clog up on his s-10 this winter. Have you had the cooling system flushed lately? Water pump would also be a likely canidate.

New water pump is on and the problem still exists.. A friend said he had a problem with a partially clogged heater core also and it had the same symptoms.So I'm gonna by pass it and see what happens....I'm not rulling out a head gasket issue just trying to take care of the simplier things.
1g in a 2g swapped motor+changing water pump = not fun

I know this is a basic one that you've probably already ruled out but have you checked to make sure that the lower radiator hose isn't collapsing on you?

we did a compression test ....180 on all cylinders

Shit! What now?!!? Thermostat malfunction? Honestly I don't know shit about coolant systems, so this is all very interesting to me. Any other clue as to what it could be?

Retorqued the head to 62ftpnds and it kinda seemed to help now my ? is Should I torque it to the higher torque level instead of the minimum cause of the higher compression pistons???

Are you using ARP head studs? I thought that the instructions said to torque the ARP's to 75 or 80 ft lbs. I don't quite understand how that would make your car run any cooler though.

"tiny bubbles......In my coolant system.....Doesnt make me happy.....makes me wine....."

Finally got the Black Bitch apart and it is official....We had a bad head gasket..
It's all back together and running and appears to behaving itself. Thanks for any and all the help I got ...Hope to see some people this weekend.

Man, that's probably what's wrong with mine, too.

Oh well, I can only wait until I get the chance to do a leakdown test.

Glad to hear your black beauty is running good now!

super16--

glad you got it figured out. Im still having probsl with my eclipse that my bro has been ironing out. The compression on all cylinders still reads sub 80's or so I believe, and the car will only run with the timing on the cam angle sensor all the way advanced. And even when it runs the car will not stay idle , you must keep the R's above 1400 or so. Im going to look into the ECU and some stuff like that , but do you guys have any idea?

Edit:--The car ran itnermittenly fine before we tore into it (problem was bad headgasket as well--car would heat up ALOT under boost and just kept breaking radiator hoses due to pressurization of the cooling system) The head was 16/1000 off so we had it milled and they had to shave the valves just a hair--This would not be affecting my compression any would it? And i made sure to torque down the head to the 62 or better ft/lbs

What head gasket did you use?

Umm...maybe I'm not remembering this right, (and I don't have a repair manual in front of me) but aren't the stock head bolts supposed to be torqued to 120ft/lb's or something in that range. If you have ARP head studs I beleieve the torque range is in th 80ft/lb. rande using their molly lube.

My stated torque values definitely need to be verified, but 62 seems very low. You might want to double check that.

I thought it was 62 - 74?????? Anywho I posted the problem over at dsmtuner and this is the thread and the responses http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread...7447#post537447

Maybe I've had too much crack... I'll have to recheck. I know that Darryl torques his ARP's over 100ft/lb's, but then he's running 30 lb's of boost too.

Although this may have been covered in the other thread, another thing to keep in mind is the stock head bolts after 1992 are the stretch type, and should be replaced when replacing the head or gasket. That is unless you measure them to make sure they are still within tollerance. From what I hear it's no more expensive to buy the better ARP studs than the stock stretch bolts.

In a thread on Dsmtalk, someone said that ARP recommends 100 ft-lbs when using their lube and 120 ft-lbs when using plain motor oil. I'm still trying to figure out how high I can go with stock headbolts to try and fix my problem. I guess until one breaks.

I was referring to the stock torque to yeilds 62-74?

Yes, that sounds correct. I might try taking my stock 6-bolt non-TTY over 80 ft-lbs in an attempt to correct my problem.