Hi everyone I have been working on the talon lately and I tried to do a compression check and I have done them before just never on a talon. I pulled the mpi fuse and the coil pack connector put the tester in and got 0 psi on cylinder 1, then tried cylinder two and still 0. I checked the tool to make sure it was working okay and didn't have any leaks. It seemed fine so I decided to put the plugs back in and try to fire the car and no luck. I then looked at the timing belt and it looks like it has jumped a tooth or two. Also another reason I think some valves are bent is because I can't turn the crank manually. Right now I am sure I will be taking off the head but is there anything that I could be missing. This car was running before I took off the accessories and the oil filter housing. The only stuff I have done is put the accessories back on, oil filter housing, took out the spark plugs to do the compression check and change the oil. Let me know what you think. Here is a picture of the cam gears, maybe it will help diagnose the problem.

Thanks Steve

I would say if you can't turn the engine over by hand, something's definitly wrong. Don't turn the engine over anymore so not to cause any more damage. Probably a bent valve or two. It looks like the dowl pins are out of sync which would be a skipped belt.

You could take the valve cover off and see if any of the valve stems are lower than they should be, indicating which valves are bent.

Tomorrow I will check under the valve cover and see whats going on. I think this head will be coming off shortly though because I can't see any other reason the compression is 0 on the gauge.

It does appear to be off a little. However, I can't imagine that the starter can turn over the engine if you can't do it by hand. More investigation is definitely needed.

STEVE!!

Its only the beginning!

I know it is I've been here before. I think the head is coming off tonight after work. I wanted to do the head gasket for piece of mind so I guess two birds one stone right.

exactly what I was going to post.... I was thinking the exact same thing

Update

Used a different compression gauge and still came back 0 also held the car wot which I didn't do the first time. Started taking apart the car right now only have some wiring and the valve cover to take off and the head will be off. With any luck it will be off by tonight.

Steve

I mean dont get mad but after talkign on the phone with you lats ngiht i started thinking this morning that you have to be doing somthign wrong with the compression gauge, even a deal cylinder will read SOMTHING even if not that high, i dont know what kind you are using but maybe check around on other forums and see what people are using

If a valve is bent enough and not seating the gauge will read basically nothing. I had a burnt valve (hole in it) and the gauge read absolute zero.

I wouldn't think two gauges were bad. It looks like a machine shop in galesburg will be doing the head considering they are half the price then everyone else around here.

Shott's in Galesburg?

Mullvains was pretty decent also.

It was galesburg machine. Mullvaine has treated me right before but I don't think it would be cheap as these guys. I know you get what you pay for but I have had a decent amount of people I know go to this place and have had great luck. I will keep you posted on how it goes. I think I was quoted for 135 for valve job,cleaning, milling (if needed) and that is if I let them take out the cams, if I take them out it is 20 off. I am sure it will need some valves though so the price will be higher.

Steve

Time for another update and this time with pics. Took about 6 hours total to remove the head from the car. The damage was exhaust valves all 8 of them bent (i'm guessing the exhaust valves because they have a ton of carbon on them). I believe the head gasket was also done I have pics of all of it. Let me know what you think I should do about the pistons because they have some little dings in them and also what is the procudure for getting rid of the crap on top of them. Also take a close look at the head because I am wondering if it is fixable with the valve hitting the side of the combustion chamber.

Thanks Steve

ouchie!!! that hurts at least you will know when putting it all back together that the parts are new

You're probably tired....those are the intake valves you dinged.

It's hard to see the head damage from those pictures. I'm sure more experienced guys on here can judge the damage better with the valves pulled.

I was wondering who should I order my oem parts though I have dealt with extremepsi but they shorted me a belt last time and made it sound like it was my fault. I still have not seen my belt they forget to ship and they were supposed to ship it last wensday.

timing belt??? i ordered my belt through buschur racing... mine was a greddy kevlar belt though... I like it alot, I got my tensioner through the stealership and my water pump through Napa.... seemed like the best way to do it so far.

JNZ Tuning is the way to go for all your OEM parts. They have treated me and others on this forum right every time. That being said, I would personally opt for upgraded valves and would buy them elsewhere, but that's up to you.

I second JNZ...excellant service every time!

I'm sure you've realized this already but just to state the obvious, you should get new pistons as well. The dings where the valves made contact with the pistons will act as hot spots if you continue to use them. This will cause knock.

Is there a way of using the jnz site better because I have a hard time finding what I need. I couldn't find seals for the stuff I was looking for.

Steve!!!

Just buy a stroker kit and a 2.4 liter head with some nice cams ftw!!

yeah keeping it simple. I want a some what reliable 300-350 horse dsm that is all.

Just call them. The'll give you prices over the phone.

In the past I sent them an email with a list of parts needed as well as the car info and they sent me a price.

.. says the man with the world most complicated evo engine setup

That gives him a unique and informed perspective.