I have a no start problem with my 95. Getting fuel, no spark. Car is cranking/turning over but not starting.

Here's what I've done:
-replaced the spark plugs
-swapped transistor packs
-swapped coilpacks

I can't connect with DSMlink. The CEL comes on and turns off when I put it in "on". The car just randomly died when I was driving home on the interstate.

I've read that if the tach doesn't jump around a little when cranking it's the CAS. But I honestly don't remember if I've ever seen it do that.

Another thing I haven't checked is the fuses (I know... I didn't think to check there because... well quite frankly it's never been something that simple... lol)

So I was wondering if I could *use someones CAS to trouble shoot if that's the problem or not. I would then potentially buy it. Doesn't matter what year, just need the car to run.

Thanks guys!

Edit: And since I'm sure someone is bound to ask. They are NGK BPR6ES' gapped to .028. I'm running up to 18psi on an E3 16g.

I would let you borrow mine if I had a spare. And it's probably a good easy thing to check.

On the otherhand I wonder about your ECU. I see that you have DSMlink, but since I don't have one I don't know if you just had a custom connection socketed to an 'old' ECU or if it is a new ECU. If it is an old ECU with a new socketed connection or EPROM on it, the board could still be suspect if the capacitors had never been changed. For that matter the socket connection could be suspect.

Just some more ideas for your troubleshooting if you haven't already investigated them.

Hmm...you might also want to see if someone's pocketlogger will hook up. It may hook up even though dsmlink won't. It should throw a code for the CAS if that's the problem.

So should I just pull the ECU and pop it open. Would I just look for leaky caps? I really hope it's not the ECU, I JUST got DSMlink right before christmas.

Yep, you'll notice if the caps are leaking. There will be a bad smell also.

See I figured it'd throw a code for the CAS, but would the CEL stay on? I got a CAS at lunch so I'm going to swap them out tonight after I check the ignition fuse. The CAS I got has the connector cut off, that shouldn't cause any problems would it? I've got a black top now, but the spare is a green top.

There was a change in those somewhere from optical type to hall effect type or something like that. Can't remember the specifics. You can see a bit on the crank and cam angle sensor rows at the following 1G/2G comparison site.

http://web.archive.org/web/20030411041300/...m/gi/1gvs2g.htm

Better info on the different CAS types here.

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/1gcasin2g.htm

Ignition fuse was fine, as well as the ECU. I'm swapping in the CAS tomorrow.

I knew there were differences with the Hall effect, but I wasn't sure if there were a different amount of wires because when I first got this new CAS it looked like there were only 3 wires, but there were four.

Thanks for all the help so far guys, I hope the CAS fixes it...