Not necessarily my project, but this is the race car I work on in Fairbury:
http://www.kodakgallery.com/ShareLanding.a...w_photos_button
144 asked me for details on another site, so thought I'd repost here in case you guys were interested at all.
It's an 07 Rayburn Overrail chassis, with a Chevy 406 small block (i believe).
Engine is a steel racing block made for dry sump oil system (external oil pump/reservoir), 18 degree valve angle aluminum heads, other than that just standard high end NA race motor, 13:1 or so compression, big 4bbl carb, forged internals, about 8k rpm redline, msd ignition, using race gas. About 550-600hp.
We had an alumnium block, but, long story short, always run an external filter even when your engine builder assures you it's not necessary.
Here's my dirt track stock cars chassis 101 class.
For these cars, you have 2 options now, either the overrail or the underrail. That refers to the rear frame, whether or not there's a bar underneath the axle. Traditional race chassis were underrail for stability, but in the last 8-10 years they've been able to build overrail cars which allow for more travel in the rear axle by not having that bar underneath it, but they flex a little more. Our last car was an underrail, so this will be a neat change.
For suspension, there are a few options: 4 bar, Z link, swingarm, or some variety of leaf/monoleaf.
-- 75% of the people out there run a 4 bar setup, which is a bottom/top bar on each side, all connecting forward to mounting holes on the frame. You get kindof a V connection from the axle to frame. Coilover spring/shock mounted to the axle. Some of you will be familiar with 4 bar from drag racing.
-- Z link is similar using a coilover to the axle as well, but with the top bars mounted to the back of the frame behind the axle, instead of going forward.
-- Swingarm is a similar bar setup as Z, but the coilover mounts to a special bottom bar that goes forward, in about the middle between the frame and axle. This is what we use.
Z link/Swingarm tend to be a little better all around and easier to adjust then 4 bar, however you can't get the chassis quite as "dialed in" as with a 4 bar. But... with 4 bar, when you're out of shape, you're way out of shape.
Setting the chassis is crazy, depending on where you set the bars, you'll get a certain amount of rear steer, which you need at some points in the night but not others (depending on the track), and it also adjusts your body roll and axle positioning. But you have to think about how the axle responds under load, not where it's sitting when parked, and each side behaves differently. Geometry is huge, and it definately took us a while to get our heads around it. Remember that on dirt track you're always leaning right and turning left.
For instance, under load, most of the time you want as much weight on the left rear as possible, since you naturally roll towards the right rear. You do this by positioning the bars so the left rear moves forward under load.
If you look at the attached drawing, you can see how the axle responds. Note that the axle mounting points are not fixed; they are a "birdcage", a sleeve that goes over the axle with tabs on top and bottom for the bars, that rolls around the axle depending on axle height. Generally we keep the left side in the driving forward position, and then adjust the rear steer based on where the right side is. You always want some rear steer, but adjust the amount depending on how tacky/slick the track is (of course I dont remember which is which right now, think tacky=more).
That's the simple version, of course tuning it to track conditions and knowing which angles you need is the hard version. There's also a 5th bar that connects the center of the axle to the frame to keep it positioned correctly, and it's positioning changes as well with conditions.
If anyone ever wants a close up look/tutorial, let me know!