Looks like the "brand new" head gasket that I put on blew between the 2 and 3 cylinders. Near 0 compression on both. Any suggestions to keep me from re-visiting this problem again. It's gonna take some time to get this thing back on the road again anyway, so I'm not gonna mess around this time. In fact, I'm temped to go ahead and buy or build a stage 1 or 2 head for it and be done with it.

Head gasket suggestions...

OEM mitsu?
4 layer metal?
others?

TIA
Rob

I've been searching this topic myself, so I will share the info that I have found.

depending on how much boost or how radical your engine is...
lets start with the extreme engine
oem mitsu head gasket... arp studs.... and a oringed head(stainless steal ring on the head) ACCORDING TO BUSCHUR RACING THIS COMBINATION IS THE BEST. THEY BLOW MOTORS APART BEFORE LOSING HEAD GASKET SEAL

next best thing is...Arp head studs and mitsu metal head gasket....



anything less is not reliable

Despite what Dave Buschur said We went with the 4 layer metal mitsu head gasket and arp's. Mike at Road Race said it was a solid set up
That is so wierd that I am hearing more and more about the oem head gasket failing. Ours looked like it just deteriorated.....

Is it possible that specs were changed on OEM replacement headgaskets that are made now, versus the ones that were made a few years ago, or are motors just becoming more powerful. The mitsu headgasket on 3S cars has never been blown apart by power that I know of, and this is on 700hp + cars.

4 layer Ralliart headgasket. Its like $90 of insurance. I wouldn't go with anything else. In fact, I tore the head off the motor shipped to me and had it replaced with the Ralliart 4 layer HG. I like the ARP fasteners but not enough to have spent the money on them.

Of course my car still doesn't run so...

On an off Topic note-

Nice sig there Zach The question is though, do you have the times to back it up?

The 4 layer metal gasket and ARP head stud combo never failed me. Then again the stock head gasket and stock head fasteners held up to 24psi on my 300 junk yard motor.

I agree with all stated above...

O-ringed is for that premium high psi engine
4 layer is for the rest of us running big street boost reliably
ARP's are sound insurance when combine with the above

if you count the time slip of my caring sitting for a the past 9months, I cant back anything up,

it takes time and money to go from stock to all out bad ass. I don't rush things or take shortcuts. I don't believe in stages, it's build it once, and then fix what breaks.

sure i'm runnin my mouth now, but it's all in good fun,

be patient, as soon as i'm finished with the car, I'll post timeslips.

and I should be putting more pictures on gallery soon too.