Well the car is running, very strongly too 8) However I have three things left to take care of that are annoying.

-My tap in the vacuum lines for a boost gauge is no longer sealing right and the focker howls like a banshee between -10 and 3psi

-Both turbos were smoking very heavily (normal I'm told for new turbos) but now the back one seems to persist...possible oil leak :shock:

-I managed to be ULTRA SLICK and somehow disrupt the harness on my oil pressure sending unit so I gotta dig under the car and check to see if I managed to unplug it with the damn rear heat shield.

All of these are minor, and the car is running STRONG!!!!!

Possible oil leak developed into a puddle of oil sitting on top of my turbo after 1 hour of highway driving :shock: :shock:

I really hope I didn't just buttfuck my new toys!

Kinky!...and painful!

I raced a VR4 with a clutch, full exhaust, HKS intake, at 15 psi on Saturday night. He edged me by a carlength. It was a great race. That tells me that your car will be quite the competitor.

The previous post was made by Natedogg.

well I didn't break my turbo, but I am having trouble getting a good seal around the rear oil feed line...I'm thinking a dash of RTV might help.

no, no pulling engine. At times you'll think it's a must to do, but it's really not. Once the stock turbos are off it's easy. It was very time consuming though. Probably about 60hrs of labor from me.

I used this, it helps a lot.

http://www.team3s.com/FAQturboswap.htm

However, I have a few warnings, the front O2 housing stay is a BITCH, no joke. The studs are in the turbo exhaust housing, and you have to slide the O2 housing off, but the stay is there holding it on. I found that I undid it, and then just left all that stuff lose while taking the Front turbo off the rest of the way, once it is off, you can move the turbo towards the passenger side, and all that shit comes off very easy.

You'll need someone with a ton of versatile tools. 10,12, and 14mm closed end wratchets are ESSENTIAL in this, especially in removing heat shields. ALso, 1/2 inch drives are ESSENTIAL as every bolt and nut on your turbos will be frozen, no shit.

This is not necessary - "Optional: In order to remove the Turbo Oil Feed Line you must remove the drive belt, alternator, dipstick guide, AC compressor, tensioner bracket, and AC compressor bracket."

FOR REINSTALLATION: You will spend 90% of the time reinstalling the back turbo while kneeling on your rear valve cover (at least, I did )

FYI - I used Envelopes and wrote what part what bolts and nuts and gaskets came from and then sealed them. Have lots of space to set things down on.

1) Anti seize on every bolt and stud (minus the eye bolts)

2) Replace ALL gaskets (minus intake plenum and throttle body) - I also replaced about 90% of the nuts too. I didn't replace eyebolts because they're expensive.

3) Everything comes together much easier than it came apart.

4) With all the shit out of the engine bay, it's a nice time to take some Simple Green and clean that bitch up.

I'll let you know about more stuff as I think of it.

Actually, my car feels slower right now than it did with the 9b's at 15psi. With the stock boost solenoid I'm spking 12psi and holding 10. Tomorrow I am going to take out the "restrictor" that's in the bottom nipple of the boost solenoid. I haven't launched hard yet.


In the future I plan on running 15psi. I'm thinking of putting in the supra fuel pump I have and running 14psi with my MBC since that's supposedly safe. When I get the 450s and the SAFC in I'll go up to 16-17psi


I would not Jet Coat the turbos at all, that would cause them to retain heat inside. However, coating the Manifolds and the O2 housings would be wise, that way you wouldn't need to put all the heat shields back in Also, get the Jethot2000 coat, it's good to 2000F and it's flat black, so it won't be blingy, but it'll sure take care of business. Porting the turbos would also be good. Money and Time kept me from doing all the things you listed.


It shouldn't flex, I believe they have a Steel core, but once they chip or crack a bit, it's a downward spiral from there. If you're going to throw down $1000 on something I can think of somehtings better than that. (Fuel pump, AFC, Big injectors, Lowering springs, etc) Some people do say that it makes shifting much easier, and one person noted that they can put their car in 1st gear at 30mph without double clutching. I guess they're pretty light too. Not what I'd spend a G on though.

Okay, I went out to the country today. My car doesn't launch like it used to. a 5000rpm dump nets me all 4 chirping, but then it bogs just a little bit. my guess is that when the 9b's rocketed up to 15psi, that kept the car from bogging. Between 3000 and 5000 the car is definitely a not as quick as it used to be, but after 5k it pulls VERY hard all the way to 7200rpm.

Most fun though was rolling along at 20mph, and punching in the clutch real quick while going WOT. It engages at about 5000 and the car is GONE!!! I mean GONE, I've never felt it pull like that.

I suspect that when I get the boost up I'll have the ability to launch hard again. Until then I'm going to have to moderate the clutch a bit, and yes, that will burn it up.


Sudden engagement = tough on tranny
Slow moderated engagement = bye bye Disk

I have however heard of people using ACT 2600 and 3100 pressure plates with OEM disks with very much success..supposedly good til you get down to the 11s. When my disk goes thoug, I'm going with RPS's Carbon disk and flywheel. Looks like good shit.

there's been confirmed ETs of 11.9 on 9Bs with no N2O. A guy named Devin once said he ran an 11.7, but I think that was with 9Bs and a 100 shot.

It takes literally $1000s in equipment and dyno tuning to get 9Bs into the 11s, but it can be done.

13Gs are easier to get into low times because of the higher end pull that they have. What people have to make up for is the lack of power between 5000 and redline. I wouldn't ever think of takin 9Bs to 11s because I'm a shoddy tuner. Believe me, once I'm at 15psi again, it'll be all over . I also intend on keeping the 13Gs for a long time, like, until I get TD05s or GT 368s or DR800s.

hopefully none, the car sure doesn't feel like it's knocking, and I can't hear anything, no feelings of timing being pulled back either. I suspect it's running 100% fine.

I'd like to see around 350-360awhp, but no one knows for sure. I'm at .032" right now on plugs and NGK blue 8mm wires.