Project Black Golfball-plans for 2007 Options

[black92_tsi_awd]

I decided to start a new thread for this year.

My goals this year:
1) To run at least 6 of the Quartermaster Series bracket races this year at Cordova and place somewhere in the points.
2) Try to get in the 11's (I'll take a 11.999) on the 14B with a relatively full weight car. ie. NO gutting the car.

I decided to take a little more scientific plan to it this year and examine what's possible and plan around that.

All calculation done at 3200lb car weight (est) and using the web site: HP Estimator

HP required to run my best 1/4 mile of 12.65@108 is 312 at the wheels so that's my base.
HP estimated to run a 11.90 is 375

So I need to pick up 63 HP to run a solid 11...hmmmm that seems to be alot to expect on a 14B.

Looking at my best 1/8 mile time of 7.92@88.5 (that I got at Vicary Day after the accident that shut down 1/4 mile racing), that equates to a 12.43 @112.39 using 1/8 mile converter, That HP requirement is 329. That leaves me about 46 HP short....

Leaves me to wonder, do these numbers seem feasable? 312(329) wheel HP with a 14B? Is 375 possible??

I think that leaves me two choices, cams or selective weight decrease involving nothing that involves gutting the car like the AC system.

[AWD DSM 1]

I assume you want to use 93 octane? I think some race gas and a good tune could get you to your goal.

[natedogg]

I'd shoot for the goal of keeping her full weight and running an 11 on the 14b. I don't think many AWD owners can claim a 11 second run with a full weight 14b car.

I'm in agreement with Rob. Some race gas and a good tune will go a long way. Also anything you can do to cool that intake charge (water/alcohol injection, larger intercooler, moving the intake filter where the old sidemount IC was). I'm not too sure on the cams. Most cams are designed to increase your airflow and power in the mid to upper RPM ranges. As we know the 14b can start choking at the upper RPM ranges. I'd be looking to get as much power as you can down low and in the middle. I think the stock cams should do that for you just fine.

Another thing that you can do is some mods to help you launch quicker. I'm not sure what you already have, but a stutter box helps here as well as a center diff spool to lock your center diff. Of course sticky tires and a stiffer but compliant suspension will help as well.

[awd4kicks]

I like the idea to go deaper into the well of 14b power supply. I also like the idea of you being more scientific with the upgrades/tuning. I know you are already running race fuel some dyno time with the race fuel and an EPROM burner would be a great start.

Cams are a possibility...I feel that 40hp out of the rigth cams is plausible.

Bucci is running 3" Intercooler pipes!!!
I'm not sure what he is running for an intercooler, but if it has 3" outlets I'm guessing a front mount. This may help as hot as a 14b makes the compressed air above it's efficiency limit.

Weight is a major factor of speed for these other 14b guys. I'm with you on trying to keep the car nice and going fast, it's just going to take more work with that added weight.

You can do IT!

[black92_tsi_awd]

Kicks is right, I'm already running race gas. I only race on the strip and don't mind running raace gas, except for the added expence. I'm currently tuning with the Maft Translator and a AEM wideband. O2's are good with minimal knock.

I do have a EPROM sitting in the garage. Setup with a 6000 stutter. I need to get a new chip burnt with a lower stutter rpm. I usally launch at 5200, anybody with stutterbox experience recommend a good starting point?

I've been considering DSMLink, but the price is steep. I would dyno tune it if there was somewhere local with a AWD dyno. I think R&T's is looking into getting one.

Intake temps are usally pretty good with the headlight removed and one of my headlights ducts in place (have some for sale-shameless plug ) I've been trying to figure out a way to make an airbox to isolate the aircleaner, but the 2.5" UICP makes it tough.

My 60' are in the 1.7-1.8's so some suspension mods would probably help. Car squats pretty drastically on launch, but that probably saves me from damaging parts.

Nate, would the spool make the car harder to drive on the street? As of now it's still my daily driver.

If I rememeber correctly, Bucci runs a inline water to air intercooler. That's going to be too commplicated for a daily driver. A front mount would help, the Supra SMIC I'm running right now made a drastic difference. I guess I could sell the Supra setup with pipes and buy a FMIC...

Good information guys keep it coming...

[AWD DSM 1]

I've always wanted to try either a simple water squirter (like a windshield washer nossel) or a nitrous sprayer on the I/C.

[awd4kicks]

Gaining the traction of a spool does mean you have to compromise some daily driving comfort. The short comings of the spool are noticed mainly in parking lots. Very slow turns cause the vehicle to bind and create popping noises from the CV's as well as chirps from the tires. I have noticed NO breakage or premature wear from this mod or it's side effects.

What it did for me on the track was lower my launch RPM by at least 1000RPM, because anything above that became an erruption in tire spinning even when I was running the 14b.

A 2-3 tenth drop in your 60 ft. will go a LONG way to achieving your goals.

[natedogg]

I agree with Marcus on the points about the spool, though I've been fortunate enough not to get the CV joint pop sounds that he occasionally gets. Its only a problem for me when I'm in parking lots as well. Another plus to the spool is it makes it much easier to have a little fun with the rear end (sexual connotations aside). It makes the car handle a bit more like a rear wheel drive at speed around corners, but still with the added traction from the front wheels.

Btw, my stutter box is set at 5500 RPM which is probably a bit too high now that I have a spool.

[black92_tsi_awd]

AWD DSM, I looked into the intercooler sprayer idea too. But I figured by the time you got everything (pump, bottle, nozzels etc) together, it would probably be better just to run alcohol injection into the TB.

Nate and Kicks, what spools are you guys running? A spool would probably make running in the snow interesting?!?

I assume that KYB AGX strut are the standard suspension upgrade?

[awd4kicks]

I'm running the TRE spool. I believe Nate went with the same thing.

[natedogg]

Yep, TRE spool. Best way to lock your center diff. I've never run it in the snow, so I couldn't tell ya.

I run KYB AGX shocks and Eibach prokits springs. Not a real intensive setup, but it works for well drag racing.

ODT and I designed a water/alcohol injection system for his car way back when he was still running on the 14b. It worked pretty well. I'm sure he could provide you more detail on how he liked it.

If I remember right, we got the best results running a mixture of denatured alcohol and water. The water best serves to cool the intake charge because it has a very high latent heat of vaporization, meaning it consumes more heat from the intake charge to change state from water droplets to water vapor. So if you are looking solely for a cooling mechanism 100% water is the way to go.

The denatured alcohol actually acts an octane booster. I believe its octane is rated somewhere around 120 so adding it to the intake charge boosts your effective octane and requires you to run slightly less fuel while it is being injected. The higher your octane the less important it is to have a cool intake charge because the higher octane mixture in the combustion chamber is less likely to detonate.

Regardless, cooler intake charge + higher octane -> more boost = more power

With the caveat that too much of either water or octane can also lead to problems.

[awd4kicks]

The higher your octane the less important it is to have a cool intake charge because the higher octane mixture in the combustion chamber is less likely to detonate.

This is true and includes the cooling effects of water/alky injection. When I ran my 12.6's it was on straight 112 octane leaded fuel. The most knock I seen was about 4 counts in forth with or without the water injection on. This was a 24psi on the 14b mind you.

[black92_tsi_awd]

Normally I run 110 and 20 lbs of boost, but on the last outing of last year I was loaded up with 112, and was going to try to run 22lb+ of boost. But they closed the track due to pending rain...and it didn't rain

KYB AGX shocks and Eibach prokits springs seemed to be the accepted standard after doing some research this morning.

Incidently, There's a set of AGX on Ebay that have broken adjuster knob on the fronts, can those be fixed?

I'm thinking water injection would be a better setup for a 14B over a bigger front mount. My reasoning being the FMIC would have more turbo lag driven by filling that much volume.

[awd4kicks]

I'm not certain...

I feel that water injection did nothing for me when I was using race gas. Which means it was only usefull for higher boost on the street with pump gas. I don't think you are concerned about anything except track performance. If that is the case then race gas would be the standard by which I would tune if it were me.

With water injection out of the loop, that really only leaves intercooler upgrades for improvement. I feel that the change of intake air temps through a constantly repeatable method is the way to go. A biger FMIC will still have an effect on the air without diluting the fuel mixture, regardless of the octane that you decide to run.

I am also skeptical of any more power being gleaned from additinal boost on the 14b. I was running 24 pounds at a slower MPH than you were running on 20 pounds. There may be a happy medium in there but you are very near the maximum beneficial output of the turbo in my experience.

[natedogg]

ODT definitely knows the ins and outs of beating 14b's to death.

[black92_tsi_awd]

I decided that I better examine the fuel system and see what it will support.

Fuel pump check:
37 psi base pressure + 22 psi boost = 59psi
We’ll call it 60

A Walbro 190 @ 13.5 volts @ 60psi flows 42 GPH

Using Kick’s formulas on LINK , with a 25% safety factor and Wort’s recommended .55 BSFC in the stated thread.
42 GPH X 7.25=304.5 lb/hr / .55 BSFC= 553 max HP/1.25= 442 HP so fuel pump should support an 11.99

Injector Check:
Currently running 550’s at 37 base FP
Again running Kick’s formulas:

550cc/10.5=52.3 lb/hr X .90DC/.55 BSFC = 85.7 HP/Inj X 4 = 342 HP
So I’m short on injectors…

Running 550’s @ 42 psi base FP = 590cc
590cc/10.5= 56.2 lb/hr X .90DC/.55 BSFC = 91.9 HP/Inj X 4 = 367 HP
That’s pretty close to the needed 375 calculated HP

Upgrading to 660’s
650cc/10.5=61.9 lb/hr X .90DC/.55 BSFC = 101 HP/Inj X 4 = 404 HP
No problem there.

Well it looks like the fuel pump will support an 11, but the 550's are marginal[B]

[wortdog]

Just as an FYI, fuel injector CC ratings are almost always done at around 43psi. So 550cc injectors flow 550cc at a base pressure of 43psi, not stock 1G 37psi.

[black92_tsi_awd]

Hmmm, so my math would be right except I'd have to run the 550's at about 48psi base to make them run as 590's right?

[wortdog]

Yeah, you've got it. And I'm sure you know that as the base pressure goes up, the demands on the pump increase very quickly.

[black92_tsi_awd]

Project update....looks like the turbo puked last night!! Lot's of smoke out the tailpipe, dumped oil on the ground from I think the vband clamp area on the exhaust side.

Anybody got a good 14B turbo...just in case?

[black92_tsi_awd]

Well, slow going as usual. Pulled the complete A/C system, replaced a blown front axle, cleaned the quart of oil from the exhaust system etc.

Now just waiting on new crush washers from Mitsu to finish installing the rebuilt turbo.

Been shopping for a new Trailblazer for the wife. Which mean the Talon can drop down from DD status and allow me some more flexibility in modifications. Plus I'll have something to tow it home when it breaks!

[black92_tsi_awd]

Its alive!!!!

Thanks to AWD DSM 1 for suppling a new banjo bolt for my turbo oil feed line...I got her running again this morning!

I think the 15 min drive blew out the rest of the dumped oil in the CAT back creating a nice smoke screen and some interesting looks from the neighbors, so I should be good.

I'll be PMing you soon ncgalant to get that chip so I can get the eprom ecu installed.

[black92_tsi_awd]

Thought I post up a few picture of my oil pressure sending unit relocation. I killed the first one due to vibration and got it replaced under warrenty from Autometer.

Pict1

I fabricated a bracket from 1/8" steel to locate support and ground the sending unit. A band clamp holds the sender to the bracket.
Pict2


A new chip is being burnt by ncgalant...can't wait to try out a stutterbox!!

Since I got rid of the AC system, can I get rid of one of the AC fan? Or is it worth keeping around for those hot August days?

[wortdog]

If you keep the A/C fan, you can use the A/C switch on the dash to turn the AC fan on/off.

The A/C fan will never turn on unless the the A/C is on, no matter how hot the engine gets.

[natedogg]

Or you can rewire the AC fan so that it turns on with the other fan.

[black92_tsi_awd]

But do I need the extra fan, or will the single fan be enough to keep the engine cool? I was thinking it be some good weight reduction.

Got my remapped eproms for ncgalant today. Can't wait to see how they work!

[awd4kicks]

I only use one fan, but it's a high flow Spal fan (the best IMO). With the stroker I had to upgrade to a Fluidyne radiator though. So my input isn't much help. I would try it if it doesn't keep her cool in the summer then wire the AC fan in with the regular fan.

[turbohcar]

I would run both as a precaution, if anything just to keep her cooler in the staging lanes. It won't hurt anything but weight to run it, and even then you're saving what, 5lbs (if even that) of weight?

[black92_tsi_awd]

Yeah, I'll probably weigh it to see if it worth getting rid off. It sure looks heavy...

[black92_tsi_awd]

Progress! Finally got the Eprom ECU in and spent some time with NCgalant tuning this afternoon.

Got a good basic tune. Almost all the around town mid throttle knock is eliminated. Few short 2-3 gears runs look pretty decent on the logger, seems to pull harder on less boost (15-16psi).

A little work on the Maft Translator and maybe another chip tweak and it should be good.

I forgot to try out the stutterbox on the way home though...

[black92_tsi_awd]

After last weekend's run of 12.476 @ 109.89 I took the car over to NCgalant for a little more tuning. It still had knock (alot) with some 110 in the tank so was still in need of some tuning. After a couple of chip burns the car feels REALLY strong, pulls hard and I can now run 18psi on pump gas with almost no knock!!! Nathan's my frickin hero!

Can't wait for the next track outing, possibly this SAT

[black92_tsi_awd]

Time for a little update.

I think my wierd part throttle knock issues last week might have been due to a really bad tank of gas. It seems to have gone away. I replaced the knock sensor and still had the part throttle knock, threw some new gas in and it seems to have gone away. Hopefully that was it and it won't come back.

Went to the bracket races 5/12 and put 2 gal 110 in, just in case. It was pretty warm and with the previous knock issues I wasn't taking any chances.

First run @16 psi, missed 3rd and ran a 13.1. Logs were perfect, 1-2 counts of knock, 18 degrees timing through the lights, WB 11.5:1

Second run @17 psi, ran a 12.68. Logs look like run 1

Third run was eliminations, got a good launch (1.770 60') but screwed third gear again and ran another 13.1 and got beat. Logs look great, no knock at all. Weather cooled off and WB was around 12.5:1

The latest chip burn looks like it might be really good. Next trip (this Friday) I'll see what 20 psi will run. Some cool weather might get me in the 12.2's

I have noticed on the hiway, it goes into open loop pretty easily cruising about 75-80. Ncgalant, I think you said something about tweaking the chip to keep it in closed loop longer, I think we may want to do that.

[black92_tsi_awd]

Hit the track again tonight. Apparently the shifting issues from the last trip weren't completely due to my incompetance, Looks like the rubber bushing at the shifter base went really soft and was allowing the shifter to not get enough throw. First run tonight, I couldn't get the car back into first or second...it was locked out. I managed to cobble together some washers and tighten down the right side.

Got about 4 decent runs in trying to get a dial in for the Trophy class. Made three 12.8X runs taking it easy on the boost. First race it cooled off more than I thought and ran a 12.77on the 12.82 dial but the snowmobile red lit and put me on to the second round. Second round I dropped the dial in to a 12.70 and ran a 12.62! And a new best 60' 1.739

Last 2 runs of the night the car wouldn't shift into 3, figures...car was running good so I turned up the boost trying to run a new best on a nice cool night.

So I guess tomorrow I'll be taking the shifter apart and try to get it rigidly mounted. Wish I would have bought one of those hard bushing sets for the shifter when I was looking at them over the winter. Anybody got one they want to get rid of???

[turbohcar]

So I guess tomorrow I'll be taking the shifter apart and try to get it rigidly mounted.  Wish I would have bought one of those hard bushing sets for the shifter when I was looking at them over the winter.  Anybody got one they want to get rid of???

LOL, I think I GAVE mine away when I parted my car out!! Sorry man, but good luck.

[black92_tsi_awd]

I found a set of solid mounts on Ebay...have to order next week.

I cut the metal insert shorter and clamped the rubber down with big washers so the shifter pretty rigid now. Hopefully that fixes the problem.

Boost check showed a leaky BOV...oh well. We'll see what happens tomorrow at SCDC!! Hell, I think the wife and kids are even coming to watch.

[scorp28]

What BOV are you running? I have a 1G laying around somewhere that I can try to dig up and bring it with so that you can use it for the day.

[turbohcar]

I found a set of solid mounts on Ebay...have to order next week.

I cut the metal insert shorter and clamped the rubber down with big washers so the shifter pretty rigid now. Hopefully that fixes the problem.

Boost check showed a leaky BOV...oh well. We'll see what happens tomorrow at SCDC!! Hell, I think the wife and kids are even coming to watch.

Try crushing it a very small amount. That will increase the spring rate inside and hopefully give you a little more holding pressure. DON'T do very much right away. Just the littlest bit is good enough. It's only two little bolts so don't get bent over having to take it off a couple times and get the crush just right.

[black92_tsi_awd]

scorp28
It's a Turbo RFL XS...the upper intercooler is flanged for a stock bov though. I have an adapter to run the Turbo XS.

turbohcar
You know what BOV I'm running...I bought it off of you!!!

[scorp28]

scorp28
It's a Turbo RFL XS...the upper intercooler is flanged for a stock bov though. I have an adapter to run the Turbo XS.

OH DAMN

I totally forgot about it when I saw you drive by me at the track today. I am really sorry about that. I hope that wasn't the reason that you didn't get into the 12's today.

[black92_tsi_awd]

I got into the 12's....just not when it counted!

I forgot to look for you too, no big deal. Still had a good time!

[black92_tsi_awd]

Might have to use my AMS gift certificate on one of these: Tial BOV

Marcus, arn't you running one of these?

[awd4kicks]

Yes Sir.

[black92_tsi_awd]

The tightwad in me decided to give a stock BOV another chance so I've got one coming. I'll try crushing it if it won't hold 20 psi.

I may try to lap the piston in the Turbo Xs BOV to see if I can get it to seal. It's junk otherwise so I have nothing to lose.

Got my Symborski Shifter Kit from MACH V yesterday. So that's going in this week to try to tighten up the shifter.

I'd really like to fix the rear suspension (all camber bolts rusted tight) but I don't see how I can easily cut them out. Does anyone have access to a plasma cutter, and the ability to use it! Seems to me a plasma would make sort work of all the bolts. I could then burn out the old bushing, replaced them with urathane and get the damn thing aligned finally!

I could then upgrade the struts to KYB's....and if anyone has seen my car launch, they can see it needs struts.- the front end rises 8" and th back looks like it bottoms out!

[natedogg]

Some stiffer suspension springs might help too.

Have you seen this mod you can do to the stock 1G BOV?
http://www.thedodgegarage.com/turbo_bov_mod.html

I performed this mod and was able to hold over 30 psi as long as the added tube was referencing atmosphere rather than engine vacuum. I ended up upgrading to a Tial anyway because I needed the extra flow to avoid compressor surge.

[awd4kicks]

I also performed the mod. that Natedogg referenced. I liked it much better than the crushed 1G. This mod allowed the BOV to work like normal, only at a higher psi, where the crushed BO seems like it's about to blow apart when it finally releases.

[black92_tsi_awd]

I just saw that link the other day, haven't had time to really read it and check it out. I guess I will

Stiffer springs would probably help too. But is like a upgrade circle all hinging on the rusted camber bolts....can't add new strut,s can't add new springs etc until I'm able to get the bolts loose and the supension updated to be able to get the alignment done after I change everything.

[black92_tsi_awd]

I got the Symborski Shifter Kit from MACH V installed today...kind of. The bushing that replaces the stock rubber part are nice quality and fit well.

However the sleeve included in the kit is no good. It's too long to fit in the mount (stock 2.595" long, the Kit's is 2.625") Also it's supposed to tighten up the pivot bolt slop. The stock sleeve measures .323" ID, the Mach V sleeve has an ID on one side or .321 and .323 on the other. So that's not really improving anything. I guess I'll email MACH V Monday and see what they will do.

I got another stock BOV, but it won't hold 20 psi during a pressure test. Looks like I be doing the "dodge garage" mod to it.

[turbohcar]

Looks like I be doing the "dodge garage" mod to it.

Please explain this "dodge garage" terminology. I only speak General Motors and Mitsubishi.

[black92_tsi_awd]

Looks like I be doing the "dodge garage" mod to it.

Please explain this "dodge garage" terminology. I only speak General Motors and Mitsubishi.

http://www.thedodgegarage.com/turbo_bov_mod.html

Come on Turbo...you're not paying attention to my thread...

[black92_tsi_awd]

Tried to rebuild the shifter to take all the slop out of it, and thereby only leaving my crappy driving responsible for missing shifts

I tried ordering all new plastic bushing to get rid of all the shaft wiggle, but apparently they are now longer available. I did pick up a new centering spring. I haven't taken the car out yet but it definitly helps guide the shifter more positively into third gear.

[turbohcar]

Looks like I be doing the "dodge garage" mod to it.

Please explain this "dodge garage" terminology. I only speak General Motors and Mitsubishi.

http://www.thedodgegarage.com/turbo_bov_mod.html

Come on Turbo...you're not paying attention to my thread...

Derrr

I've seen that one before, but never attempted it myself. Let us know how it works!

[black92_tsi_awd]

I just finished modifing the BOV last night per that website. Going to install it tonight and I'll see how it does at Cordova Sat. Going bracket racing again...

[black92_tsi_awd]

Intial test of the modified BOV looks good. Held 20+ psi boost when driving Funny thing is, it still leaks air under a boost leak test. I don't understand that...it should hold tight.

Didn't get to run too much, I found a bad front tie rod end and just finished fixin her up. The rod end was pretty loose, glad I found it at home and not at the track. Steering wheel is a little more off center than usual, but it drives Ok. We''ll see what tomorrow holds....

[black92_tsi_awd]

Short version of the track outing Sat...car went 12.65 on a 12.78 dial on the brakes through the light. Going by the 1/8 mile time, it was a 12.4-12.5 run....Oh well. I'm definitly learning the world of bracket racing. Air temp plays a huge difference, and I need to start paying attention to it.


Suspension question: If I upgrade to adjustable KYB AGX's, can I replace the rear first to stiffen up the rear (compression wise) and then at a later date replace the front struts? Or will that cause major handling problems??

[black92_tsi_awd]

I guess I'm going to be such a tightass and order some suspension parts.

To replace the struts with KYB AGX's I only need to get the struts themselves correct? Can the stock rod covers and upper plates can be reused?

[wortdog]

Yeah, they're direct replacements for the stock struts and shocks, so all of the stock items work just fine.

[black92_tsi_awd]

Heading again to COrdova today for some bracket racing...100 degree heat index today so I won't be breaking any personal records!

[awd4kicks]

Good Luck Chris. Let us know how it goes!

[black92_tsi_awd]

Went pretty well. Had a nice wind to keep the mid 90's temp managable.
I decided to try really hard for consistency and went with an easy tune, especially with the high temps and high humdity.

These where qualifying runs:
12.976@106.29 with a r/t -.143
13.023@106.61 with a r/t .010
13.003@106.59 with a r/t .002

First round of eliminations:
12.99 dial ran a 13.099@106.32 with a r/t .020

Second round
12.99 dial ran a 13.000@106.08. Unfortunately I went red (-.059) but the other guy ran a .001 r/t and a 12.047 on a 12.04 dial....basically a perfect run for him!

Track was somewhat slick, my 60's were in the 1.8-1.9's instead of the normal 1.7's.

[awd4kicks]

Excellent job man! I am continually amazed at how well your project handles the track time. And consistancy...Talk about some good runs!

[black92_tsi_awd]

Thanks Kicks...I cross my fingers and say a little prayer she stays together before each trip to the track!

Seriuosly though, the setup isn't on the edge or anything so I think that help it pile up the track runs. So far I have 31 runs in this year.

I did order my KYB ABX's yesterday, should be here this week! Hopefully my 60's will drop some, or at least get rid of the bucking broncro look

[black92_tsi_awd]

Started on the strut install. Here's how you know your struts are blown...you compress them and they shoot out all their fluid!!



Assembled rears





I picked up new bumpstop from Advance but the thing is huge compared to the stock one (left)


Is the stock one supposed to be that small? Or is just smashed to hell?

[turbohcar]

Yeah, the stocker isn't supposed to look like that. Make sure to cut the bumpstops down where KYB suggests in the instructions or you'll be riding on them.

[black92_tsi_awd]

I can't make head or tails out of the KYB instructions...there in the universal "picture" lauguage. All it says in words is not to cut bumpstops more than 1/2.

Should I just cut it down past the top hump?

[turbohcar]

Wait a sec.... you're using stock springs though right? With stock springs they should be alright. The front bellows I bought at Advance came with the bumpstop integrated into them. You don't need to cut the bumpstops unless you're going with a lowered ride height. I got confused because I did my Eibach Pro-Kit lowering springs at the same time.

[black92_tsi_awd]

Yep, stock ride height. I got Strut Mate brand boots at Advance. The bump stop is seperate from the boot. The boot is nice rubber really flexible.

Are the stock bump stops that tall through? Looking at the one stock assembled front strut, it looks like I'll only have about 3" off suspension travel.

[turbohcar]

It should be the same height, but compare them to make sure.

[awd4kicks]

Personally I would cut it past the first hump. That bump stop is way too big.

[black92_tsi_awd]

Both bumpstops are pretty well smashed to hell, the other one is in a little better condition. When I get that one diassembled I'll probably cut it based on that stop.

Thanks guys.

[black92_tsi_awd]

Here's the trimmed bumpstop:


Fronts done:


One of the crew working:

She's getting pretty good at getting tools, jackstands, turning on the compressor etc!!

Here's a couple of shots of the driveshaft loop I modified and added at the beginning of the year:




I wish I would have added the struts earlier. Car handles pretty nice for still having the alingment off. Little stiffer ride, I left the shock set on 2-Front and 4-rear for now.

Ordered new poly bushing for the front since the lower control arm moves in the rear mount.

[awd4kicks]

Nice work Chris!

[turbohcar]

One thing's for sure, get that bigger turbo on your car and it'll be everything I was dreaming mine could have been. Good job man!

[black92_tsi_awd]

Damn putting in new front bushings and found a blown lower control arm ball joint on the drivers side....it's always something!

Ad's posted in the exchange.

[black92_tsi_awd]

Crap, both sides have bad ball joints!!!

[black92_tsi_awd]

I'm still gathering lower arms looking for a good set...typical dsm parts, always a pain in the ass.

I am poly bushings proper function, in the front mount on the lower control arm in particular. Are the control arms supposed to rotate around the poly bushing as the suspension works or is the poly bushing supposed to be "attached" to the arm and the bushing/arm supposed to rotate around the mounting bolt bushing that is pinched in the frame mount?

Hmmmm, does that make sence to anybody?

[badbu68]

The bushings aren't supposed to move at all, the bolt rotates in the inner metal sleeve. The bushing is there to deflect movement other than the rotating of the bolt.

[black92_tsi_awd]

Well I got it all bolted together. I got a good drivers side arm and the passenger side rear pin mount is workable.

Since I've replaces the tie rods, struts, bushings on the front I was going to go get an aligment but since the back camber bolts are still seized it probably doesn't make any sence to yet. The alignment shop says they set the back and then do the front off of that.

I started thinking about what actually is adjustable on the stock front. The only thing I see that they can adjust at the aligment shop is the toe. There doesn't seem to be any adjustment to the caster/camber on the top strut mount, or am I missing something?

I've got the front tracking pretty straight with a tape measure alignment and 1/8" toe in, does anybody know what the toe in speck is?

[awd4kicks]

Thaere is no way to adjust amber or caster with the stock componentry. Unless you add some slots where the spindle mounts like I have. then you can get some camber adjustment.

[black92_tsi_awd]

Cool, I'll just check the toe and get the whole thing aligned after I fix the rear.

I have all new bolts for the rear--$$$!, I just need to order the bushings. I may weld up the rear upper control arm to stiffin it up some while I'm at it.

[black92_tsi_awd]

Had a long weekend of track time. Friday Fun Night I got 11 runs in and had some fun. Had a hard time getting some consistency. Alot of red lights that I think I can chalk up to to the new suspension reacting a lot quicker. My 60's are not getting much faster but I think it leaves a little harder/faster

Went back Sat for another round of the bracket series race #9.

These where qualifying runs:
12.858@106.7 with a r/t .002
12.736@107.42 with a r/t .038
12.957@106.66 with a r/t -.018

First round of eliminations:
12.88 dial ran a 13.046@106.32 with a r/t .030 Got out of it at 1000' and just kept a car ahead of the other lane

Second round
12.88 dial ran a 13.073@106.08 w a r/t .055. I holeshot the other car and again just stayed ahead of the other car to take the win.

Third round
12.88 dial and I went red on the start. The other car would have still beat me with my 12.96

Oh well, got 30 more points and won $20 for the second round win.

[black92_tsi_awd]

Decided to take the Talon to work today since the weather was so nice and cool this morning. Took her out on the backroads on the way to work and had some fun! Ran great, 18 psi on pump with no knock to speak of. Pulled good, well as good as the little 14b can...

Got to town and noticed some chirping on right hand turns, once in a while on left. Chirping seemed to come from the passenger side. So tonight I checked all the wheel bearings by doing the "wiggle test" with each wheel up in the air and grabbing the wheel at 12 and 6 or 3 and 9. Couldn't really detect much if any movement and no clunking sounds, drivers side rear has some "noise" but seemed minimal and the noise comes from the passenger side.

I was thinking the chirping might be from the new poly bushings, but I lubed the hell out of them and the noise only comes during turns. No noise over bumps.

Any other suggestions? Should I just watch the bearing and see if they get worse?

I found a link that show how to replace the front wheel bearings, but are the rear easily servicable?

[awd4kicks]

I would just keep your ear trained for it and see if it gets any worse. Poly bushings are known for being noisy. If the lube wore off at all they could make noise.

It's hard to say, just one of those things you'll track down.

BTW - I know your car has to feel crazy fast. In fact if you took a ride in mine, you would probably be shocked and bored with all the lag compared to yours.

[black92_tsi_awd]

I don't know, I'll trade some lag for some 11 sec slips!

I like the way the car feels, it gets to 90 before you think it should be. And with the stiff now non floating suspension it has the elusion of being faster. The only "car" people to ride in it and offer opinions Darryl and NCgalant. Everything is slow for Darryl when compared to his car and I think I may have scared Nathan with my runs on the off ramps during tuning sessions. He said something about not getting him killed

Wouldn't mind a ride in yours sometime, and your welcome to drive my heap

[black92_tsi_awd]

Well tonight's racing didn't go as planned.

The intial autopsy looks like I had an injector going bad and caused a cylinder to go lean and eat the electrode off a sparkplug. I swapped some new plugs and ran her a little, pulled the same plug and she was clean as new and no smell of gas which led us to beleive the injector wasn't firing. Next plug was white/brown so it was burning.

So looks like I'm in the market for either another 550 or a good set of 650's.

I'll tear into it Sunday and verify what going on but if you got anything let me know.

[black92_tsi_awd]

Further investigation of the dead cylinder is not good.

I swapped injectors....still dead cylinder
I swapped the injector resistor pack...still dead cylinder
Screw driver stethascope on injector body...seems to be ticking

Compression test 135-122-0-130. Hmmm I guess I found the problem!
I forgot to have the wife hold the throttle blades open so the numbers are a little low. Of course zero is still zero.

I going to do a leak down test this week to determine whether I burnt a valve or if it the rings/piston.

Hopefully I can get away with a quick hone and throw another piston (have to find one) in there to finish out the year. Hopefully I can at least get it running to hit the bracket finals at the end of the month.

[turbohcar]

YIKES

[awd4kicks]

I was afraid of that Chris... Been there done that. Still sucks.

On a positive note you have made an incredible amount of races with out any serious breakage and the 14b at it's limit.

[black92_tsi_awd]

Yeah, I've been pretty lucky and the 14b probably has gone as far as she's going to go. I feel like I should be pissed, but strangely I'm not. I've haven't figured that one out.

I just want to get her back together, and finish the year's races I had planned. Then this winter, I will take a good hard look at what direction I want to take her.

[awd4kicks]

I may have some old stock pistons if you are wanting to go that route. I only burned up one per set.

[black92_tsi_awd]

Yeah, I might need them. I figure I either messed up a piston or burnt a valve. I'll give you a call once I get it apart this week. Thanks.

[black92_tsi_awd]

Darryl came over last night and we did a leak down test. Cylinder #3 has 30% leakage and the air is coming out the intake so it looks like I burnt an intake valve. The other cylinder <6% so they should be fine.

Head comes off Sat...guess I'll call Kalina and get a estimate on fixing the head.

One side note, I emailed FIC Sunday asking if they would sell a single injector or reman the one I have. Got the below email Tues morning:
"
Hi Chris
I am so sorry to hear that you're having trouble with the injectors.
We can clean and flow the injector you are having trouble with to see if we
can get it to work 100% or we can sell you a new injector. That's up to you.
Make sure you test to see that the injector behaves the same even if you
switch it to another plug. (You may already have done that...)
The single injector cost is $55 for a 125-0550L + $5 freight and the "Clean
& Flow" is $20 per injector + freight back to you.
If we determine that the injector failed prematurely and will be replaced
under warranty, there will be no cost to you.

Let me know what you want to do.

Regards, Jens.

Jens von Holten
info@fuelinjectorclinic.com
(561) 427-0082


Pretty fast response (with the holiday) and the offer of the possible warrenty replacement is a bonus.

I will be probably sending the questionable injector back in case is was the cause of a lean condition that caused the broken plug/burnt valve.

[black92_tsi_awd]

A little further diagnosis

Did another compression test with the throttle open:
142-130-0-140

With some oil in the cylinders:
155-145-0-150

According to the VFAQ the Standard for a 1g turbo is 164 and the service limit is 121.

She's a little worn but should be good enough to last to the winter after I fix the head. But I think it'll probably need to come out for a freshening.

[black92_tsi_awd]

Carnage photos.....

I beleive this is my problem


I can't find the rest of the valve....it's not in the exhaust, intake and it wasn't in the turbine housing. I can't beleive is was burned away...is that possible??

The rest of the valves look like this, do these look normal? Especially the exhaust ports:


I hoping the guide is OK since the stem has a groove worn in in in the exhaust port.

Good news is that all the cylinder bores look good, no grooves.and nice and smooth.

[awd4kicks]

Oh boy! You did it up right Chris.

You will probably find that most if not all of the valves are warped and the guides are probably ok. If you want to play it cheap, Make sure they ONLY check the valves in that cylinder.

The way your exhaust valves look is pretty typical. They usually get a white coating on them from my experiences.

[ncgalant]

pretty ugly stuff. 150-160 compression tells me you've still got quite a bit of life left. I decided to rebuild mine when they were more like 135-125-115-130 and even that motor was running pretty well.

[black92_tsi_awd]

Yeah, that's way the way I roll... Crack crank in two...burn finger size hole in valve...next who knows?!!?

Kicks, thanks for the tip on the shop just checking the one cylinder. Has anyone taken their head to Kalina in Peoria? Should I run down some valves or just let them do it?

I need to finish stripping down the head. I know I need remove the cams...I don't need to bring the cam caps to the shop do I?

I also assume I need to pull the lifters, do they need to go back in the same bores?

[awd4kicks]

I've used Kalina on about 90% of my cylinder head repairs/rebuilds.

You shouldn't need to send your cam caps. I always have but not for any reason. Definitely pull your lifters. It's always a good conservative idea to put used parts back where they came from.

Kalina can get nearly as good of a deal as anyone except on the specialized parts. I've accepted paying a little more from them for parts to help keep a local business going. When I wen to my last set of valves...half the price a Ferrea, i had to get them through Winner's Circle but if you are doing stock valves there is no problem.

[SCCA Stang]

didn't spy have a race head up for sale a while back??? maybe time for an upgrade!!!!

[awd4kicks]

He already sold it.

[black92_tsi_awd]

I think that head would be out of my price range...if I'm thinking of the right one.

I guess I'm going to send all the injectors back to FIC to have them checked ($10 a piece) just in case I have another one possibly going bad.

Kicks, I don't mind supporting the local shops either. Unfortunality I got back too late from Iowa today to get the head torn down. Looks like it won't get to the shop until Weds.